ON the first Day of June, 1790, I took my Departure from the City of Rich­mond, with an Intention of visiting the Wes­tern Regions of Kentuckey, and exploring the Spanish Dominions of Louisiana and the two Floridas; as also the Territories of the Creek Nation, now under the Governance of Alex­ander M'Gillivray, Esq who from the con­current Approbation which he hath merited and received from the whole Nation, may, with Propriety, be said to hold imperial Pow­er, having many Kings and Princes subordi­nate to him.

How far I have succeeded in the Explora­tion of those Countries, the Reader will de­termine from a candid Perusal of my Jour­nal.

June 10th. Contractcd a violent Rheu­matism from wetting my Feet, in an Attempt to cross the Rapedan, which retarded my Pro­gress [Page 6]for about eight Weeks in the County of [...]; where the Humanity and Politeness of Col. John [...]ho [...]nt [...]n and his Lady mitigated my Distress, and ultimately restored me to my pristine Health and Vigour. This Gentle­man, as well as his Brother William, possesses a rare mechanical Genius, and to which he hath superadded a practical Knowledge in Me­dicine and Surgery; the Advantages of which, his poor Neighbours often experience with Tears of Gratitude.

Some Years since, the Assembly of Virgi­nia voted a Premium to Mr. John Hobdy, for his Invention of a Machine, which he sub­mitted to their Inspection, well calculated for the Purposes of beating out Wheat and other small Grain. Col. William hath improved upon Hobdy's Invention by constructing a Wa­ter-Mill, which without the Aid of animal Exertion, shatters out and prepares more small Grain of any Kind in one Day, than Hobdy's can in one Week. With this Mill alone, he speedily prepares his Flax and Hemp for Mar­ket or the Distaff. It is a Model well worth the Attention of every opulent Farmer, or of those who raise large Crops of Flax and Hemp.

[Page 7] August 10. Crossed the Blue-Ridge and halted for three Days at New-Town, within about eight Miles of Winchester. This flourishing little Town I think, bids fair to eclipse Winchester in a few Years, or, be con­nected with her by a lengthy Village: Its Lo­cality gives it a decided Preference to Win­chester, as being in a fertile Neighborhood, and nearer to Mills, Iron-Works and the fu­ture Navigation of the Shenandeah.

From this Place I made some few Excur­sions into the Country, particularly to the Houses of Colonels Zane and Thruston; the former of whom possesses a greater Originali­ty of Thought, Speech and Action, than any other Gentleman I ever was acquainted with.

He is the Proprietor of the Iron-Works, which, under his judicious Management yield an amazing Profit. All the Works which are very complex, are driven by the Water is­suing [Page 8]from one Spring, whose Source is not above a Quarter of a Mile from the pot.

August 14th. Found myself happy in the Family of the sensible, humane and generous Col. [...]. M. Thruston, whose public and pri­vate Characters will bear the strictest Scrutiny. His late [...]isplay of unparralled Generosity to a distressed, though reputable Family, will be enrolled in the Court above; and from the rec [...]r [...]ing Angel, instead of a Tear, extort an approbative Smile. This Gentleman at an early Period of the War, laying aside his sa­cerdotal Habit, appeared at the Head of a Re­giment in Defence of his injured Country. His Achievements in the Field, his Wisdom in Council, and the general Tenour of his Conduct, through the various Scenes of Life, do him Honour, and claim from a grateful Country its warmest Acknowledgments.

On this Gentleman's Farm I observed about an Acre of Ground well beset with Jerusalem Artichokes, of a most luxuriant Growth; the Colonel told me that he was confident the Pro­duction would exceed one Thousand Bushels. To this Vegetable, Swine and horned Cattle of every Description, particularly Sheep, are surprisingly attached—I do not discover it to [Page 9]be any Way inferiour to the Garden Artichoke for Table Use.

August 17th. Arrived in Winchester much relaxed from the Heat of the Weather, and whilst lolling on a Couch, was saluted by a Mr. John Welch, who had served in my Regi­ment in the Capacity of a common Soldier du­ring the last War. With great self-Compla­cency he informed me, that since the War he had been prosperous in Life, had acquired a snug little Retreat in the Country, and then [...] a large Drove of Cattle within four Miles of the Place, which he meant to dispose of to the French emigrants then stationary in Win­chester — that he wished to go back, meet the Drove and hurry them into Town, least others might supplant him in the Sale; but that he had sent his Horse to the same Pasture where his Cattle were, so that he should be under the Necessity of going on Foot. unless he could beg, borrow, or steal a Nag to ride that small Distance: Mr. Welch, I am happy to hear of your Prosperity, and you are entirely welcome to the Use of my Horse to ride that Distance— Sir, you are very good, and I'll embrace your generous Offer, and on my Return this Even­ing give myself the Pleasure of Dining with you. I fear some Accident has happened to Mr. Welch, as I have neither seen him, the [Page 10]Horse, Bridle or Saddle from that Hour to this! In this situation, on a Journey with 180 Miles in Rear, and 500 in Front, I be­gan like St [...]ap to moralize, with only this Difference, he said "A Fool and his Money is soon parted;" I used the Word Horse in­stead of Money.

During my Continuance in Winchester, I was frequently in the Company of General Morgan, whose Character as a Military Man, is held in high Estimation even by his Ene­mies— Possessed of an easy Fortune, he now enjoys all the Sweets of Domestication, and the Heart felt Pleasure arising from a conscious Rectitude. He is fond of the social Pleasures, and will sometimes in his gayer Moments, amuse the Company with Narratives of mar­tial Feats, and how Somebody, and who it was, that plucked the Laurels from fierce Tarlton's Brow.

September. Hearing that the Monongali [...] and Ohio were innavigable, I resolved to spend my Time until they should rise among my Friends in Berkeley County, which for its Temperature of Air, Salubrity of Baths and Fertility of Soil, justly claims the Preference of every other County in Virginia, but less so of Frederick than the rest, whether for the [Page 11]Properties already mentioned or the Hospita­lity and safe [...] of its People in general.

I paid a Visit to Mr. Clarks Washington, the Brother of our beloved President, where I had the Pleasure of seeing a most affectionate Meeting between him and his Sister, attended with several Female Relations from Frede­ricks [...]ury. Mr. Robert Rutherford, a Mem­ber of the Virginia Senate was also there, and contributed much to the Chearfulness of the Company, by singing several most excellent and sentimental songs. I am indebted to this Gentleman and Mr. Washington for furnish­ing me with a joint Letter of Introduction, to some of the most reputable Characters in Kentuckey: Messrs. David Gray and Moses Hunter are among the number of these who have imposed Obligations on me.

October. Pursued my Route through Shepherd's Town and Martinsburg, two flou­rishing little Towns. At the former I saw General Gates and his Family on their Way to New-York, and at the latter, General Ste­phen, who observed that the Triamvirate was now entirely dissolved, alluding to Generals Lee, Gates and himself;

Began to ascend the Alleghany Mountains in Company with old Col. Shepherd, who observed, that for many Years he had made it an invariable Rule to take a hearty Drink of Grog at a Spring near the Road-ide, where the Eastern and Western Waters very amicably take their Leave of each other, in­timating that we and our Western Brethren ought to do so likewise. I shall not under­take a Description of a Sixty Miles Passage over those Alpine Hills, but content myself with saying, that I passed through the Sha­dow of Death—saw General Washington's In­trenchment at the Meadows, and undismayed, rode over Braddock's Grave. From the Western Side of Laurel Hill, on a pleasant Eveaning, I was ravish'd with the Prospect of Beeson Town and the circumjacent Coun­try. Ten Miles from Beeson Town lies the Old Fort, at the Junction of a smail Stream, called Redstone and the Monongalia. At this Place we were detained about a Week, experiencing every Disgust which Rooks and Harpies could excite.

[Page 13] October. Wenton Board a Kentuckey Roat in Company with three Danville Merchants, and a Mr, Fooley from the State of Mary [...]na, and in Twenty-three Hours r [...]ched P [...] ­burg. The last mentioned Gentlemen from his Singularities and Fooleries merits a mi­nute Description, which, however, I am at a Loss to give. Suffice it to say, that Mr. Thomas Fooley, of a very reputable Family in Maryland, is about six Feet three Inches high, and every Way disproportionate in his Shape and contradictrory in the Lineaments of his Face, which at first View excited a Refi­bility in the most serious Beholder. The De­formities of his Conduct vie with those of his Person. It was sometime last Month that Mr. Fooley eloped from his Lady, under an Apprehension that she was preparing through the Medium of her Friends an Instrument of Writing for him to sign, whereby a consider­able Part of his Fortune was to be vested in the Hands of Trustees, subject to her Con­troul. To this Mr. Fooley was utterly op­posed—However, previous to his Elopement he left her an unlimited Power of Attorney, which he delivered into the Hands of his Overteer. At Redstone he disposed of his ele­gant Horse and Furniture for an old Brass Watch, which has the Property of being [Page 14]right once in every Twelve Hours: Not­withstanding thi, Mr. Fooley is a Gentleman of Refinement, being both a Philosopher and Politician, with some Knowledge of Astro­logy and Palmistry.

October. Apprehending a Return of the Rheumatism, I resolved to awart the Event in Pittsburg, where I could be comfortably lodged and duly attended; I staid ten Days Here I saw the celebrated Hugh Henry Breck­enridge, Author of the six political Sermons in the beginning of the War, and of various other Traits since—He had been lately mar­ried to a Miss Sabina Wolfe, Daughter of an old Dutch Farmer in Washington County— The Circumstances of his Courtship, Mar­riage and subsequent Conduct I shall relate, with some slight References to the Person, Temper and Disposition of the Man.

Mr. Breckenridge on his Way from Wash­ington Court. called in at Mr. Wolfe's to have his Horse fed and escape a Rain which was then descending. The Horse was fed, the Rain had subsided, and Mr. Breckenridge to avoid wet Feet, ordered his Horse to be brought to the Door; Miss Wolfe was di­rected to perform that Office.

These Allurements made a deep Impres­sion upon the susceptible Heart of Brecken­ridge—He prevented her in the servile Office, mounted his Nag and off he went. He had not gone more than a Sabbath Day's Jour­ney, (for such his really was) before his Horse, at the Instigation of the Rider, turned short about and revisited Mr. Wolfe's. A fa­miliar Application was made to the old Gen­tleman for his Daughter, which he consi­dered as nothing more than Pleasantry in Mr. Breckenridge, for which he is so remarkable. Mr. Breckenridge declared that he was seri­ous, that his Intentions were honourable, and that this future Happiness rested on the Event of his then Application. Miss Sabina had been employed in Shrubbing the old Man's Meadow, which saved him the annual Ex­pence of about ten Dollars. This with him was an insuperable Objection to parting with his Girl—Mr. Breckenridge obviated the Dif­ficulty by paying down a Sum of Money, obtained the Young Lady's Consent, married her, and sent her to Philadelphia, where she now is under the Governance of a reputable [Page 16]female Character, whose Business will be to polish the Manners, and wipe off the Ru [...]ti­cities which Mrs. Breckenridge had acquired whilst a Wolfe.

As an Introduction to an Acquaintance with this Gentleman, I composed, inclosed and sent to him on the Evening of my Arri­val, the following hasty Production, which without my Knowledge or Consent, he had inserted in the Pittsburg Gazette.

In Company with this Gentleman I view­ed the Fort and neighbouring Eminencies of Pittsburg, which will one Day or other em­ploy the historic Pen, as being replete with strange and melancholy Events. The town at present, is inhabited with only some few Exceptions, by Mortals who act as if pos­sessed of a Charter or Exclusive Privilege to filch from, annoy and harrass her Fellow Creatures, particularly the incautious and necessitous; many who have emigrated from various Parts, to Kentuckey can verify this Charge—Goods of every Description are dearer in Pittsburg than in Kentuckey, which I attribute to a Combination of pensioned Scoundrels who insest the Place.

[Page 18]Was a Spaniard to reside among the Pitts­burgers only one Week, he would be apt to exclaim in the Words of Quevedo:

TRANSLATED.

November. I proceeded down the Ohi [...] in Mr. [...]eall's Boat, which was a moveable Fortification; having about one Hundred and Fifty Salt Pans so arranged, as to render a few Men within, capable of repulsing ten Times their Number without. Nothing materially occurred—We had a tolerable Passage of five Days and Nights down to Limestone, a little Town, situate on the Banks of the Ohio, at the Mouth of Limestone Creek, where Emi­grants from Virginia and all the Eastern States most commonly debark. Leaving this Place, I passed on in a direct Route through the most fertile Parts of Kentuckey, by Wash­ington, Bourbon and Lexington Townships to Danville, the present Metropolis of the Dis­trict. In this Place and its Vicinage I con­tinued about a Month, experiencing every Civility and Hospitality which so remarkably [Page 19]characterize the People. The Topography of Kentuckey is foreign to my Purpose, as Mr. Filson and others have treated that Sub­ject with great Candour and Precission. Mere Occurrencies, and the most conspicuous Traits of Men and Manners, are the principal Objects of my Investigation. General Wil­linson and Scott are too generally known both at Home and abroad, to require any Eulogi­um from me: I shall, therefore, wishing them every Prosperity, proceed on to Louisville and its Neighbourhood, and rouse up Gen. George Rogers Clarke, who, the Kentuckians say, hath actually been in a profound Slumber for upwards of four Years, without the least Symptoms of Wakefulness whatever.

December 15th. Arrived at his House un­der an Apprehension that he had forgotten me. He immediately recognized me, and without Ceremony, entered into a familiar. though desultory Conversation, in which I was highly pleased with the Atticism of his Wit, the genuine Offspring of native Genius. On serious and important Occasions he dis­plays a Profundity of Judgment, aided by Reflection and matured by Experience. I cannot dismiss this Gentleman without ob­serving that some few Years since he shone forth in all the Glory of military Pro [...]ess. [Page 20]He appeared from his Plans and Successes to have possessed an intuitive Knowledge of the Manoeuvres and Designs of the Enemy, hav­ing in no Instance out of many concerted his Operations injudiciously.

At Louisville the first Object that caught my Attention was the ludicrous Mr. Fooley— Having exhausted all his Cash, he had ex­changed his fine long tail'd broad Cloth Coat for a Sailor's coarse Jerkin, which reached within four Inches of the Waistband's of his red Plush Breeches— He had swapped his Beaver for a coarse high crown'd narrow brimm'd Wool Hat, which he thought ex­pedient, though contrary to all Precedent, to throw into a smart triangular Cock; by the last Exchange he gained a round Half Dollar Piece. In this Garb, our Hero fraught with consummate Impudence, set out in Quest of Adventures. As he had been a Fellow Tra­veller in a strange Land, I could not help re­monstrating with him upon the Impropriety of his Conduct, which, however he endea­voured to defend, by observing that his then Appearance was in Honour to the Memories of Mr. Sterne and Lord Verulam.—For Sir, added he, Mr. Sterne hath written expressly on the Subject of Jerkins in these Words, "A Man's Body and his Mird, with reverence I speak [Page 21]it, are exactly like a Jerkin and a Jerkin's Lining—Rumple the one, you Rumple the other:" And as to my Lord Verulam, "Smell-fungus in his History of England represents his Lordship's Chappo, as similar to what now covers the Noddle of your humble Ser­vant."

In the Neighbourhood of Louisville I con­tinued upwards of two Months; those with whom I associated, were affable and humane: The Stranger here may consider himself as at Home—for such is the extreme Hospitality of the People, that unknown to their Guest, they will confer, or rather impose Acts of Be­neficence, which cannot be refused without Rudeness.

March 4th. 1791. Proceeded down the Ohio in Company with a Frenchman, who was taking his American Wife and Children along with him to Langue la Graisse, or, the Greasy Bent; now called by the Spaniards Neuvo Madrid, on the Western Side of the Missisippi. The Governor of Pensacola says, that the Etymology of Langue la Graisse ori­ginates from the Rivers forming an extensive Curve; where, upon the first Settlement of the Place, great Quantities of Bear-Meat [...] stored up for the Use of the Garrison and [Page 22]the French and Spanish Navigators up and down the Missisippi, which Meat is of a very oleose Quality; though in my Opinion, the Greasiness of the Soil, with the Devexity of the River, sufficiently justify the Epithet.

During our Passage from [...] to this Place, we were frequently alarmed at the hos­tile Appearance of Indians on both Sides of the Ohio and Missisippi; suspecting our Num­bers to be superiour to their own, they were deterred from coming against us in Force; which had they done, we should have fallen Victims without a Possibility of Escape to their merciless Barbarity.

March 12th. 1791. Breakfasted and dined with Signior Pedro Foucher, Commandant at Neuvo Madrid. The Garrison consist of about Ninety Men, who are well supplied with Food and Raiment; they have an excellent Train of Artillery, which appears to be their chief Defence—Two Regular Companies of Musqueteers with charged Bayo [...]ets might take this Place. Of this Opinion is the Com­mandant himself, who complains that he is not sufficiently supported—He is a Cr [...]l [...] of French Extraction, of Patagonian Size, po­lite in his Manners, and of a most noble Presence. On the Evening of this Day em­barked [Page 23]in a Boat called the Smoke-House, bound to New Orleans, and anchored on the Georgian Shore, about Thirty Miles below Madrid.

13th. Setting at the Vessel's Head I es­pied about a Dozen Fowls as large as Musco­vile Ducks, of a blai [...]h grey Colour, with remarkable short Necks, the Name of which no one on Board knew, as never having seen any of the Kind before, though they had long been accustomed to the Navigation of the Missisippi, and visited most Parts of the habitable Globe. An Hibernian on Board swore that from the shortness of their Necks they were either Cygnets or young Cranes; for that the old Ones liad Necks ten Times as long.

14th. The Trecs on the Margin of the River in Verdue. At 9 o'Clock encounted a Congeries of Aiots and passed the first Chickasaw Bluff, where the River is about Five Hundred Yards wide—At 12 o'Clock we lost Sight of Mans [...]ur's Boat in a strong Gale of Wind—8 o'Clock at Night one of Mr. Craig's Tobacco Boats, with Forty Hogs­heads of Tobacco, and a large Quantity of Flour and Plank passed us whilst we lay in Harbour, she had lost her Rudder and sprung [Page 24]a Leak. In this Situation, with only three Hands on Board, they implored our Aid, which through prudential Motives was de­nied.

15th. At Sunrise espied the Frenchman's Boat in good Harbour and uninjured; but different was the Fate of Mr. Craigs, which had sprung a Leak in her Bow and appeared to be stranded opposite to the second Chick­asaw Bluff, where the River is about Four Hundred Yards wide. At 9 o'Clock we viewed the third Chickesaw Bluff, opposite to the Bayone St. John, where the River is not quite Four Hundred Yards wide. The Colours of this Bluff are white, red, yellow, blue, grey, black, brown, purple, &c. Here the Chickasaws once had a small Pottery— Upon this Bluff is the most eligible Situation for a Town which I have as yet seen on the Banks of the Missisippi.—Just under this Bluff, within six Feet of the Shore, a first Rate Man of War might ride in Safety, un­assailed by Winds, &c. At the upper End of this Bluff is an old Blockhouse, built by a Captain Besheare's Company, who had the Convoy of military Stores for the Chickasaws, which they deposited therein, until they could procure the Assistance of additional and fresh Hands. From the lower End of this [Page 25]Bluff, the River suddenly opens to the ama­zing width of four, five and sixth Miles. Upon Examination, I find our Crew consist of one Irishman, one Anspacher, one Kentuc­kean, one Person born on Sea, one Virginian, and one Welchman; six Total. At 12 o'Clock came on a violent Storm, which with Difficulty we evited, by exerting every Nerve to gain the Shore.

March 17th. 1791. The Irishman in Ho­nour of St. Patrick, purloined all our Bran­dy, Sugar and Eggs to make a Tub of Egg-Nog, of which he drank so copiously, that whilst at the Helm, he insensibly run the Vessel into a strong Eddy, to get her out of which, employed all Hands in hard Labour the Balance of the Day.

March 18th. At Sunrise came on a slight Snow, which formed a curious Contrast to the Verdure of the Trees—All the Afternoon of this Day we run due North.

19th. At 8 o'Clock we run due South— All this Day the Weather was intensely cold, the Wind blowing from North. About Noon six Indians of the Chactaw Nation came on Board and presented us with two Strings of jerked Venison, for which we in Return gave [Page 26]them six Pound of Bacon and a Peck of Salt, which they pronounced to be very good. At 1 o'Clock we were hailed by a Pennsylvanian and a Lad in a Peroch, laden with Bear and Buffaloc Meat, taken on the St. Francis Ri­ver, and bound up the Os [...]rque River, where there is a Settlement of Thirty Families about Thirty Miles from its Mouth. At 3 o'Clock overtaken by two Boats laden with Flour and Tobacco.

20th. At Sunrise drew up a Kitten of about Twenty lbs. Weight, which with the Help of God and an Irish Cook, we made into most excellent Broth. At 9 o'Clock came up with two large Pittsburg Boats at Anchor laden with Flour, on the Shore, opposite to which, was a Conceurs [...] of Osarque Indians. An old Man among them was in Mourning, having his Face blacken'd over with a Com­mixture of Bear's Oil, Charcoal and Turpen­tine: Just under his Jowls were two Streaks of red and white, which ran parallel to each other—The Indian Ladies very innocently displayed their Navels, and the curious Dye might have explored other Parts which civi­lized Nations industriously conceal. Twenty Miles up the Osarque River are their Wig­wams, opposite to which, on the Eastern Side, is a Spanish Garrison of Twenty-nine Men— [Page 27]The Place is high, well watered, and as yet the Garrison have experienced no Sickness.

21st. At 8 o'Clock descried a Keel bot­tom'd Boat with a square Sail, bound to New Madrid—Her Progress under a fair Wind was at the Rate of two and a half Miles per Hour, which might have been accelerated by the Addition of Oars. At ten o'Clock en­tered a narrow Part of the Missisippi, where it is not more than Two Hundred Yards wide. At 12 o'Clock discovered another Keel bot­tom'd Boat, destined to the same Place with the former. At Sunset, three of Mr. Craig's Tobacco Boats came up with us whilst we lay in Harbour, the fourth being still under the Command of the Rear Admiral, whose Intrepidity hath often endangered his Vessel by opposing the poor Planters and Sawyers, who have taken up their Residence in this spacious River. It is shrewdly suspected that the Rear Admiral will be tried by a Board of Dons, so soon as he makes the Port of Natchez.

22d. At Sunrise, espied a Vessel of Ge­neral Wilkinson's, under the Command of Captain Swaine, bound to New Orleans—At 8 o'Clock we had in View six Sail of the Line.

[Page 28]23d. At 12 o'Clock we ran North West­wardly—Here the Missisippi forms on the Spanish Side an exact Resemblance of an Horse Shoe.

24th. At Break of Day espied the Wal­nut Hills about ten Miles below the Yasous River, which his Catholic Majesty limits as his Boundary, and below which, his Vice­gerents say, that Citizens of the United States shall not inhabit, unless they throw them­selves under the Laws, Banners and Protec­tion of the King of Spain. At 10 o'Clock espied a Shingle roosed House, occupied by a Family of New-Yorkers—Near this Spot the Governor of the Natchez hath fixed upon an Eminence for the Erection of a Fort. The Family informed, that the intended Garrison were at the Natchez, taking in military Stores and Provision. The River opposite to the intended Fort is about Six hundred Yards wide. Whoever undertakes a Des­cription of the Walnut Hills, must have a fertile Imagination, be happy at Landscape Painting, and use Something like Romance, or he will fall infinitely short of that Eulo­gium which the Place so justly merits.

23d. At Sunrise, saw two small Houses on the Eastern Side of the River upon a beau­tiful [Page 29]Eminence, from whence runs off a great Extent of very level fertile Ground: The Eminencies resemble the round Hills of Staf­ford County, in the Northern Neck of Vir­ginia. At 2 o'Clock I went on Board the Governor of Natchez' Barge, his Name is Gayoso. Here I was regaled with delicious Nuts and excellent Wines, This Gentle­man has a majestic Department, softened by Manners the most engaging and polite. Hav­ing been brought up at the Court of London, he is well acquainted with the Etiquette of Mortals who move in the more exalted and splendid Scenes of Life, He had in Com­pany with him two Victualling Boats and an armed Schooner, laden with military Stores. I could not ascertain their Destination, tho' it was probably to the Walnut Hills. His Soldiery including Mariners and Mechanics, did not exceed one Hundred Men. Doctor O'Fallan, Agent for the Yajous Company, ardently pants for the Cultivation of this de­licious Soil; but by Connoiseurs, it is shrewd­ly conjectured, that having pitched his Tent in the Grotto of Miss Clarke, his Ardency, like his Constitution, will turn into down­right Frigidity.

24th. At Sunrise, we shot the Grand Gulph, opposite to which, on either Side, [Page 30] the Cane grows to the enormous Height of Forty and sometimes Forty-five Feet. At 8 o'Clock an impervious Fog arose, so as to pre­vent a Discovery of Sawyers and other Ob­stacles not more than ten Feet from us. It might with Propriety have been called "Darkness visible." At 9 o'Clock passed the Bayone Pierre, on the Banks of which are three small Houses and about Thirty Acres of Ground under Cultivation—About ten Miles higher up the Country it is pretty thickly inhabited by Virginians, Carolineans, Georgians, and some few Stragglers from the Eastern States.

26th. At Sunrise came in Sight of the Town of Natchez, situate on the Eastern Bank of the River. It contains about an Hundred Houses, and is the Metropolis of the District and Residence of Don Gayoso, the Governor last mentioned. In this Town and its Vicinage we continued about a Week.

27th. On Sunday I took a View of the Governor's Palace, as also of the Fort; which from its elevated Situation has a fine Com­mand of the River for about a Mile up, and double that Distance down it: though I think it might be assailed with Success by a [Page 31]single Regiment, or taken by Surprize with a less Number. The lying of the back Ground, and the Paucity and Insignificance of the Garrison would favour either Plan. They have a good Train of Artillery, though very injudiciously arranged; the back Part of the Fort being pregnable to a Dozen Men.

28th. Paid a Visit to Don Gra [...]frey, Com­mandant of the Regular Forces throughout the Natchez District: he lives about Two Miles from Town. Here I was regaled with different Kinds of Fruits, Wines and Parmesan Cheese, which were succeedent to a very good substantial Dinner. Hospitality and Urbanity presided at his Board: His Lady is young, handsome and polite—His Visitants consisted of five reputable Gentle­men and three Ladies. One of the Gentle­men spoke the English and Spanish Languages with great Propriety and Fase. Him we fixed upon as Linguist to the Company, and through whom we carried on a brisk and chear­ful Conversation. The Spanish Gentlemen and Ladies with whom I had an Opportunity of conversing, do not possess that Austerity and Reserve, which are so generally ascribed to their Nation. The Character of the Spaniards is thus drawn by the celebrated [Page 32]Mr. Swinburne, after his late Travels through the Country.

"The Catalans appear to be the most ac­tive, stirring Set of Men, the best calculated for Business, Travelling and Manufactures— The Valencians a more sullen, sc [...]ate Race, better adapted to the Occupation of Hus­bandry, less eager to change Place, and of a much more timid suspicious Cast of Mind than the former—The Andalu [...]ans seem to be the greatest Talkers and Rhodemontadoes of Spain—The Casti [...]ians have a manly Frank­ness, and less Appearance of Cunning and Deceit—The New Casti [...]ians are perhaps the least industrious of the whole Nation—The Old Casti [...]ians are laborious, and retain more of antient Simplicity of Manner; both are of a firm determined Spirit—The Arragoness are a Mixture of the Casti [...]ian and Catal [...], rather incling to the former—The B [...]scayner are acute and diligent, fiery and impatient of Control, more resembling a Colony of Re­publicans, than a Province of an absolute Monarchy—And the Galacians are a plod­ding Painstaking Race of Mortals, that roam over Spain in Search of an hardly earned Sub­sistence."

From this Description: those with whom I conversed are certainly Castilians, or of that [Page 33]Pedigree. To Mr. Swinburne's Character of the Nation I shall have frequent Reference, as I shall be much among them, and proba­bly see Mortals answering each provincial Description. About some ten or fifteen Miles above the Town of Natchez, lies the Settlement of the Bayoue Pierre—It compre­hends a Neighbourhood of about Thirty Miles in Length and Twenty Miles in Width, composed generally of People who have moved, and still continue to move in elevated Stations, when compared to those, who, though now possessed of Wealth, ushered in­to Life without the Advantages of Fortune, Family, or Education.

29th. At the Natchez I observed an Ad­vertisement relating to a stray Horse, for the Setting up of which, the Owner was obliged to get the previous Sanction of a Magistrate. An Inhabitant under the Jurisdiction of Spain may be said to be,

The Soil of this District is better adapted to the Growing of Corn, Rice and Indigo, than of Tobacco, the Cultivation of which, is gradually falling into Difuse; as an Ad­mittance of it into the King's Store is now [Page 34]positively refused, from some political Mo­tives, which the Governor thinks himself under no Obligation to communicate: though the present Crop was raised under a Confi­dence reposed in his Promise, to receive and allow eight Dollars per Hundred for it.

30th. At 10 o'Clock discovered the Wreck of one of Mr, Craig's Tobacco Boats, which he had directed to be got under Way. Into this Boat, exclusive of Tobacco, he had stowed a considerable. Quantity of Bacon, Butter, Flour and Plank—He lost almost the whole. His Boatsmen (for whom he now no longer had Occasion) appeared to bear his Loss with great Composure and Christian Fortitude. At 1 o'Clock moved from the Natchez, and in two Hours viewed the white Bluff on the Eastern Side of the River. This Situation is Romantic and boasts a Gentle­man's Seat, near which lay three large To­bacco Boats unlaunched. Mr. Ellis, from Amelia County, of Virginia, resides at this Place. Here I discovered the first Pine Trees since I crossed the Allegheny Mountains.

31st. At 12 o'Clock past Lestus's Bluff, where the River is about Two Hundred Yards wide. This Situation is beauteous, and has two Plantations on the summit laid off in ob­long [Page 35]Squares, and a little Way below, a fine extensive Meadow. At 3 o'Clock hailed by a Row Galley from New Orleans, bound to New Madrid, At 4 o'Clock espied the Long Reach, where the Eye may take in an unin­terrupted Water Prospect of Twenty-three Miles. At our Entrance into the Long Reach we viewed the Red River, about a Quarter of a Mile wide, on the Western Side of the Missisippi; and three Miles below it the Bayoue Chappaliere, which taking its Leave of this River, disembogues its gentle Stream into the Gulph of Mexico, several Leagues from the Mouths of the Missisippi.

April 1st. At Sunrise we heard the Re­ville beaten on the Western Side of the River, where there is a small Spanish Garrison.

2d. Hailed by two Perochs, one bound to the Natchez, the other to the Bayoue Pi­erre. For two Days past we have been much harrassed by Musquettoes—The poor Indians who go almost naked, construct an elevated Bed of Reeds, which they Suffumigate, so as to banish Insects of every Description from their Lodgements. Slight whitewashed airy Buildings become more common on the Eas­tern Side of the River, and are, in general, occupied by People from the United States. [Page 36]Here are the most delightful Prospects that ever caught my View—On the Western Side there is a Meadow three Miles in Length and Half a Mile in Width, beset with English Clover about eighteen Inches high, which depastures about Three Hundred Head of Horses, and an equal Number of horned Cattle.

3d. At 10 o'Clock viewed Point Couper, a Village Twenty-one Miles in Length, though narrow, consisting of inferiour Build­ings, interspersed now and then with dwelling Houses, and Chapels of tolerable Elegance. At 4 o'Clock saw eight Country Seats on the Eastern Bank, and at the lower End of some high Bluffs, a large Building of extraordinary Workmanship, and a Dock-yard about Hast a Mile below it. At 6 o'Clock viewed the Alexandrian Bluffs, from which on both Sides of the River there is a Continuation of beauteous Farms and elegant Buildings for the Distance of Sixty-one Miles. The general Width of the River all this Day is about three Quarters of a Mile, or rather less.

4th. About Noon espied the Suburbs of New Orleans, and at 2 o'Clock came abreast of the City on the Eastern Side of the River, in an Island formed by the Missisippi and the [Page 37] Bayoue St. John. This City is the Residence of Don Miro a Spanish Viceroy, and Empo­rium of Louisiana and the Indian Territories dependent thereon—It lies in almost an exact Square. The Streets which are wide, and some of them well paved with Brick, intersect each other at right Angles. The public Buildings are capacious and elegant. The private Houses generally neat and commo­dious. Both Descriptions lie compact and cover a Space of Ground of rather more than Half a Mile square. As the Situation of New Orleans was originally Nothing more than an extensive Morass, and subject to the Inundation of the Missisippi, it became ne­cessary to exclude the Water, by constructing Dikes from about ten to fifteen Feet in Height, and double that Measure in Width The steady Exertions of many Hands were, and still are employed in the Business; notwith­standing which, the Dikes are sometimes broken through, and considerable Damage sustained by the Influx of Water into their Cellars, Gardens and lower Rooms.

Along a spacious Canal from the Bayoue St. John, to the Western Entrance of the City, both Fish and Fowl of every Kind in great Abundance are brought to their Mar­ket; [Page 38]which is also well supplied with fresh Meats from various other Quarters.

April 7th. The French and Spanish Sub­jects of Louisiana, are strict Romanists, and therefore, enthusiastically fond of Pageantry in their religious Festivals. This I can avouch from a Procession of Yesterday, when a crucified Redeemer was crucified afresh, in being represented like a Felon, in the Habi­liment of a Jesuit. The Virgin-Mother was dress'd out a-la-mode de Paris; and Traitor Judas, for political Reasons, appeared in the Regimental Uniform of a Spanish Soldier, under Sentence of Death, for having divul­ged the Countersign to the Enemy in Consi­deration of a Bribe.

In this Procession, I observed a young Ken­tuckean who had been educated in all the Strictness of Presbyterianism, from which he had apostatized, and embraced Anabaptism and Methodism, which he highly honoured, by using each Profession alternately, as Hy­pocrisy might suggest. He was presented with a waxen Candle, which he devotionally received; and, like the Knight of the woeful Countenance, joined the cheating and the cheated Throng.

[Page 39]On the Morning of the Procession, I planted myself near the Door of the Monastry, and had a faint Glimpse of the Nuns whilst thus were adjusting their Capuchins. The Mo­nastery is near the Centre of the Town, and remarkable only for its Length, which if I mistake not, is about Two Hundred Feet. The Hospital is situate in the Western Edge of the City, where Nothing interrupts its Ventilation from the East, South and North; but unfortunately, as if intended to banish Chearfulness from its Mansions, the Priests have laid off a Burial Ground, which is en­closed on one Side by the Front Wall of the Building. The Chapel is in a ruinous State, and will not be repaired—A new one is trect­ing, to which, all the internal Decorations of the Old will be transferred.

Don Andrea, a Catalan, arrived in New Orleans about Twenty Years ago:

For ten Years past he hath been the richest Subject in Louisiana or either of the Floridas. About three Years since, he got disgusted with his Lady, against whom he prayed on obtained a Divorce a V [...]ncu [...] Matrimonii, a Dispensation from the Archbishop of [...] ­ledo, [Page 40]Primate of Spain and great Chancellor of Castile, for an incestuous Marriage with her younger Sister. To procure an Indul­gence of this Kind, required a considerable Largess from the Coffers of the old Mam­momist. He is now erecting to the Glory of God. and in Atonement of his Rascalities a superb Church and Hospital. No Doubt when these shall be completed, but that he will be reminded by the Priests, who will know how to excite the Passions of Hope and Fear, that some other expiatory Acts remain; and which he is indispensably bound to perform, under no less Penalty than of having his Soul everlastingly damned in the liquid Flames of Hell-fire, To soothe his Vanity, his Name and Pious Deeds, will be ensculptured over the Front Doors and other Parts of the Buildings.

The Orleanois as I observed before, are staunch Romanists, and consider People of all other religious Denominations as Here­tics, and to whom they not long since de­nied christian Burial. Their Custom was to throw the Body of the deceased, unshrouded [Page 41]and uncoffin'd into the Missisippi. Not many Years ago, an Englishman, by the Name of Howard, influenced by Motives to Huma­nity, purchased about four Acres of Land in the Suburbs of the City, and generously as­signed it as a Burial Ground for Protestants and Strangers. I saw the Interment of a Corpse. The Grave was about four Feet deep. The Water rose within ten Inches of the Surface, and the Coffin was sunk down with heavy Stones.

Private Adventurers from New-York Phi­ladelphia and Baltimore, carry on a tolerable Trade at this Place—They have an Advance of Cent per Cent on their Goods, which are nevertheless cheaper than Spanish Importa­tions. I could not ascertain what Impost is exacted here, but imagine it to be about fif­teen per Cent ad Valorem.

During my Continuance in New Orieans, I got acquainted with the celebrated Major Fairlamb, whose Name will be memorable from the Circumstance of his having in the Course of the last War, with only Sixty­three Men in a Blockhouse, withstood and repulsed General Wayne's whole Brigade. He is now Surveyor-General for the King of Spain in Louisiana. I had an ironical Mes­sage [Page 42]from him to General Wayne, whom I had not the Pleasure of Seeing, in my Route through Georgia.

May 16th. Went on Board the Gover­nor's Packet at the Bayoue St. John, bound to Mobille and Pensacola. In this Bayoue I counted Seventy-three Alligators, which the Eye could easily take in at one View. The Tail part of this Animal yields a very nu­tritious Food, and on which, the Indians and Negroes voraciously englut and gormandize. They are eaisily killed with a Rifle Ball, dis­charged about an Inch below the Eyes—All other Parts except the Belly, are clothed with impenetrable Scales. The usual Length of those I saw, were from six to ten Feet; though some few are now and then seen, which mea­sure upwards of Twenty Feet. I was in­formed by an intelligent Spaniard that they are of the same Genus with the Crocodile on the River Nile, many of which he had criti­cally examined in the Course of his late Tra­vels. On Board of this Vessel were Passen­gers, ten miserable Spaniards and a poor Ne­gro, laden with combrous Chains, whose in­cessant clangous Sounds, united with Heart­rending Groans, transpierced my Ear, and sadden'd all my Soul. They were under the Care of an Ensign, whose Feelings appeared [Page 43]to be equally wounded with my own. Their Fate will be confinement in a Prison Ship, till they, with many others, now in the Ca [...] ­ [...]house at Mobille, reach their ten Years gloo­my Abode in the Copper Mines, where they will be excluded from the Light of Heaven, and drag out a miserable Existence under the Iron Rod of ruthless Oppression, in hard and [...]remitting Labour. Providence was kind to these poor Wretches. At times they were chearful, and by no Means seemed to antici­pate the subterraneous Horrors which await them.

17th. Arrived at Pensacola, the Metro­polis of West Florida. There are some ele­gant Buildings in this Place, particularly the Palace, Barrack and Chapel. Whilst Pen­sacola was in Possession of the British Go­vernment, it was under an excellent Police, and wore a very different Aspect from what it now does; a great Part of the Town being in a ruinous State. There is but one Tavern for the Accommodation of Americans and Foreigners, and its Rates are enormously high. Their Market is well supplied with aquatic Productions of every Species peculiar to the Climate, and with slight Industry, might vie with Northern Markets in Mutton, Beef and Pork, with the superiour and additional [Page 44]Ad­vantage of Venison. Perennial Fruits of all Kinds, except Apples, they have in the great­est Profusion.

Don Arturo O'Neil, Governor of this Pro­vince informed me, that during an eleven Years Residence in Pensacola, he had never experienced a Moment's Sickness; and that all the Citizens enjoyed uninterrupted Health, except the Spanish Garrison; whose Mode of Living, will, at all Times, and in all Places, be productive of complicated Diseases. In­ordinate Use of Ardent Spirits and bad Wine, superadded to high seasoned Meats and pro­ [...]iscuous Intercourse with lewd Women, will disorder any the most [...]obust Habit of Body.

Immediately back of the Town is a de­lightful Acclivity, from whence issue many bubbling Fountains of wholesome pleasant Water, filtrated through the Sand which con­stitutes the Hill. The upper and lower Greek Nation trade to this Place, where they are uniformly imposed upon by a Mr. Pan­ton, who hath monopolized their Trade. The poor Indians barter their Deer Skins at fourteen Pence Sterling per Pound, for Salt at nine Shillings Sterling per Bushel. Pen­ton is Part Owner of the Salt Works in the [Page 45]Island of Providence, and has it brought to Pensacola in his own Bottoms, at the Ave­rage Expence of about three Pence per Bushel. I think his Goods at Mobille, Pen­sacola and St. Marks, are generally vended at about Five Hundred per Cent on their prime Cost.

After having spent about a Week in Pen­sacola, experiencing greater Civilities from his Lordship than my most sanguine Expec­tations could have depicted, I departed with an Escort of eleven Indians, to whom I was introduced by the Governor, as an English Ambassador Incog. This ludic [...]ous Title I endeavoured to support, during my Passage through [...] Wilderness of Three Hundred Miles, by assuming wise Catonia Looks, big with momentous and mystical Concerns. My mock Gravity forsook me whenever I drew over the Stage of Imagination, a Groupe of old Acquaintance viewing me in my new and farcial Capacity of Ambassador from the Court of London to an Indian Emperor.

My Indian Companions (from their Con­duct I judge) were much pleased with vari­ous Parts of my Diess which they would in my Presence, try on and pull off, and pack away in their Budgets; always remembering [Page 46]to make a Bow and say, "Tank you Sir, which extorted from me a Nod of Consent, with the Addition of, You're welcome Gentle­men. The very ample Stock of Rum, Wine, &c. with which the Governor had supplied use, was with like Ceremony by them, and other Parties which we frequently met, con­sumed in about three Days. In about 20 Miles from Pensacola we reached the Indian Boundary, no Part of their Territory ever ap­proaching higher than that Distance to the Sea-board. Notwithstanding the natural Ste­vility of Soil from Pensacola almost to the Tal­lipoosee River, the Long-leaf'd Pine, Hickory, Oak, Poplar, and Walnut Trees grow to their usual Height, and protect from the scorching Rays of the Sun the tall and tender Grass; among which Plants, Shrubs and Flowers of variegated Hue, and of rare medicinal Virtues, are interspersed; a Catalogue of which, shall be subjoined to some future Page.

June 1st. Arrived at General M ^cGillivray's House, situate on the Cousee River, about 5 Miles above its Junction with the Tallipoosee, which forms the Alabama, whose Confluence with the Tombigbee forms the Bay of Mobille. —At the Mouth of Mobille River, which empties into the Bay, is a Town of similar Name, of which having only a [...] [Page 47]View, I shall not attempt a Description; but only observe that it is garrison'd, and from its Locality, must 'ere long surpass Pensacola, in Population, Trade and Buildings.—The fer­tile Grounds upon all the above last mention­ed Rivers are settled and settling by Corn, Hemp and Tobacco-Makers, who will have a nearer and better Navigation to Mobille than to Pensacola—add to this the Peltry-Trade, which will trebly exceed that of Tensacola, as being nearer to the Hunting-Grounds from whence they may have Water-Carriage, except at one or two places, where a very slight Por­tage will be necessary.

On my Arrival at M ^cGillivray's where my Indian Escori left me, I was informed that he had just gone to his upper Plantation, on the same River, about 6 Miles distant from his present Residence: Thither I impaired in Company with his Nephew, who supplied me with an Indian's stray Horse.—We had not ridden far, before we unfortunately met the Owner, who, with a menacing Countenance and sans Ceremonie, seized the Bridle and or­dered me To dismount immediately.—An Hour's Walk brought me to the Place, where the General was superintending some Work­men in the Erection of a Log House embel­ [...]d with dormer Windows, on the very [Page 48]Spot where his Father resided whilst a Trader [...]n the Nation. Here are some tall old Ap­ple-trees planted by his Father, which make a venerable Appearance, tho' greatly obstruct the Prospect to and from his rural humble Palace.

He received me with Frankness and Civili­ty; modestly enquired into my Business, and promised every Assistance in his Power to­wards my Accomodation, whilst I should think proper to make his House my Home:— Do they order Things better in France? This Gentleman to Appearance is at least Five and Forty, tho' in Fact only Thirty-two Years of Age—Dissipation marked his juvinile Days, and sapped a Constitution originally delicate and feeble.—He is subject to an habitual Head-Ach and Cholic, notwithstanding which his Temper is placid and serene, and at In­tervals of Ease quite joyous. He possesses an Atticism of Diction aided by a liberal Educa­tion, a great Fund of Wit and Humour, meliorated by perfect good Nature and Po­liteness.—His Lady considering the Mode of Education to which she was subjected in the early Part of Life, is a Model of Prudence and Discretion; and could her Complexion, which is olive, be commuted for the lovely Tints of red and white, she would be

[Page 49]By this Lady the General has two lovely Children, Alexander and Elizabeth. They speak the English Tongue as well as Children of a similar Age usually do among us.

He has a considerable Number of Negroes at his different Plantations, probably more than Fifty, and common Report says, double that Number in the Spanish West-India is­lands; as also large Stocks of Horses, Hogs, and horned Cattle. Two or three White Men superintend their respective Ranges, and now and then collect them together in Order to brand, mark, &c: This they effect by giv­ing them a little Salt in their Inclosures. His Table smokes with good substantial Diet, and his Side-board displays a Variety of Wines and ardent Spirits.—The General encourages his People in all Kinds of gymnastic Exercises; his Motives for which may be easily conjec­tured — He invited me to a Ball-Match, about 10 miles from his House, between two Town­ships. Sixty-two alert young Fellows were selected from each Town. The Goals were set up about a Quarter of a Mile apart, near the Center of an extensive Campaign or Praire.— They consist of two blazed Saplings fixed in the Ground about 10 Feet asunder at either End, thro' which every Time either Party throws the Ball with their Rackets, they are [Page 50]entitled to count one—The Number of the Game is arbitrary.—Midway between the Goals, the Ball is thrown up alternately by two old Men, who are mutually chosen by the contending Parties to decide, all Contro­versies which may arise in the Course of the Game—Upon throwing up the Ball a violent Struggle ensues between the Parties which sometimes lasts 8 or 10 Minutes, before either Side can give it a cast; and when they do, there are others of their Opponents ready to intercept and give it an adverse Direction.— On this Game Property to a very considerable Amount is generally risqued, consisting of Broaches, Bracelets, Gorgets, Medals, Paints, Arms and Ammunition piled up in a pyrami­dical Form. Sometimes their whole Family Stock of Food and Raiment is hazzarded.— A dislocated Joint or fractured Bone is not un­common: Suffer what they may, you'll never see an angry Look or hear a threatening Word among them.

[...] Players devest themselves of all their Clo [...]s, except their Flaps. They ingeni­ [...]u [...] disguise themseves with various coloured Pa [...] and assume the Somb [...]nce of Rattle-Sn [...] entwin'd about their Legs Thighs and A [...], whilst spiral Streaks of red, white, black, and [...]ue, alternately adorn their other Parts.— [Page 51]The vanquished Party immediately upon the Conclusion of the Game, betake themselves to their Heels, in Order to avoid the Scoffs and Ridicule of their boastful Conquerors.

Our President, whilst M'Gillivray was in New-York, complimented him with a Selection of elegantly gilt bound Books; as also with the Golden Epaulet which he had worn through­out the War, The latter M ^cGillivray consi­ders as a great Honor conferred upon him; and therefore, says, he "prizes it far above Rubies and much fine Gold." He receives an­nual Presents from his Father in Scotland, which he modestly displays to his Friends, saying, those I received from my natural, these from from my political and adopted Father.

The Reader is here presented with a Speci­men of M ^cGillivray's epistolary Composition, extracted from two Letters addressed to Messrs. Boyd & Ker of Richmond, and to Mr. Collin Douglass of Manchester, bot [...] written in Haste, and in a Circle of many Chieftains, whose Garrulity would have confused any other Man than M ^cGillivray.

Having spent an agreeable Time among the upper Creeks, I took my Departure on the General's Horse, with his Overseer as an Es­cort to the Lower Towns of Coweto, Broken-Arrow [Page 53]and Cussatee. The two former lie on the Western, and the latter on the Eastern Side of the Chattahoutchee River, which takes its Name from two Indian Words; Chatta, a Stone, and Houtchee, which signifies marked or inscribed. This Stone lies about 3 Miles above the Coweta, at the Rapids, covered over with hieroglyphic Inscriptions, which the present Race do not understand. On the Western Side of the River, upon the low Grounds of the Cussatees is a Mount, on whose Summit are the evident Traces of a Parapet sufficiently large to have contained one Thou­sand Men. This Mount appears to have been the Work of Ages and of many Hands, being upwards of 600 Yards in Circumferrence at its Base, and about 100 Feet in perpendicular Height. On the Western Side and imme­diately opposite to the Mount, are the Vestiges of a very large and deep Intrenchment, thrown up in a circular Form by the Ancestors of the present Race, as a Defence against a nume­rous Tribe of the Seminolies, whom the Creeks after a long and bloody Contest of 20 Years, extirminated, and re-peopled the deserted Vil­lages by [...]ow Emigrations from their own victorious Tribes. This Event according to the oral Tradition of the Creeks, happened about Ten Thousand Years ago, when they had [Page 54]a Giant-King of most stupendous Size, called Billy Pig, who in Times of Dearth, would stop the Chattahoutchee with his Foot, and di­vert the Current over all the neighbouring Fields: That the Alligators got offended at his Conduct, and begged their King to snap off his great Toe; the Loss of which pre­vented him from damming up the Water any more with that Foot; and so he died of Grief, and was burried under the circular Mount al­ready mentioned, coil'd uplike a Rattle-Snake.

During my Tarriance at the lower Towns, I formed an Intimacy with the Little King of the Broken Arrow, who is friendly, commu­nicative and intelligent. Through him, with the Aid of an Interpreter, I attempted to com­pose a small Vocabulary of the Creekish Tongue, particularly of such Words as most frequently occur in common Intercourse. In the pro­secution of this, I enquired of him what Ap­pellation he had for God? he replied, Sawgee Putchehassee, which signifies the Giver and Taker of Breath: And pray with what Epi­thet is your Majesty pleased to honor the poor old Devil? with Emotions of Contempt he replied; there is no Devil: God Almighty is too much of a Gentleman to keep bad Ser­vants about him. Just at this Instant, his Majesty received an Invitation to a Rum-Drinking, [Page 55]which in Opposition to all my Dis­suasions, he resolved to honour with his Pre­sence. This Rum-Drinking or Spewing-Match was held in the public Square, conti­guous to their Hot-House; in one or other of which Places, as the Season may require, the Wittenagemote of the District assemble for the Discussion of all Subjects, whether civil or military, moral or divine. Here also they hold their War Dances, display their Tro­phies of War, and keep their annual Festival called the Busk. This Festival generally com­mences about the middle of July, upon the first Discovery of ripen'd Corn, and is the grand Epocha of the Creeks. All the Male Class who have attained the Age of Puberty, religiously abstain from all Intercourse with the other Sex, and every Kind of Sustenance, except Water, for three Days; which from the Catharties and Emeties they then swal­low, are called the Days of Purgation. Thus cleansed from the Impurities of the former Year, they extinguish every Particle of Fire throughout their District, and rekindle more by the Friction of a round Sassafras Stick, in an Augur Hole bored into a Piece of dry Poplar. This Relighting of the Fire, is performed by their Chief Priest or Sachim, and communi­cated by Torches to the Master or Mistress [Page 56]of each respective Family. This done, a mul­tifidous Mess of new Corn, cooked over the new Fire, is brought into the Centre of the Square, and distributed with great Formality among the Guests, agreeable to Seniority and Rank, by old Men and Women deputed for that Purpose. When the Repast is over, they rise up with one Consent, and with many strange Gesticulations and loud Shouts of In­dian Triumph, dance down the Sun, Moon, and Seven Stars. At the Close of almost every Day throughout the Year, about 15 or 20 principal Townsmen assemble in the Square, for the Purpose of giving or receiving the most recent Intelligence, whether foreign or do­mestic, which if important, is reported to their grand Council, and by them to the National Assembly, whose Decrees on the Occasion, are generally ratified by their Emperor, who has Power also of rejecting them.—The Creeks consider Fornication as a Faux Pas or venial Crime at most: but Wo! to the Sons and Daughters who commit Adultry: Vengeance in a swift Career pursues them and cannot be appeased, but by the corporeal Sufferance of the Aggressors. Upon a Detection of the Crime, about 50 or 60 Persons of each Sex, repair to a Thicket, and supply themselves with Hickory Clubs; this done, the Men de [Page 57]termine upon the Measure of Punishment to be inflicted on the Woman and permit the Women to decide upon the Man's. They then saparate, brandishing their Clubs; the Men in Quest of the Woman, in Quest of the Man. The [...]d [...]ltress when found, is seized upon, and ign [...]m [...]iously [...]r [...]g [...]ed into a Circle formed by the Men, who beat her with their Clubs till she can no longer stand; and whilst extended on the Ground, the A­vengers proceed to dock her Hair, crop her Ears, and slit her Nostrils; of all this her [...] ­morato, is made an unwilling Spectator, and sometimes an Agent; who, in Turn, suffers a similar Disgrace in the Circle of the Women, his fair Dulcinea looking on. What I have here mentioned are the highest Punishments they ever inflict, even upon the most atrocious Offenders.—Sometimes they dispense with cropping their Ears and slitting the Nostrils, and content themselves, with giving the Of­fender a found Drubbing and a short Deck:— This Lenity was extended a few Days ago to a Mr. Patrick Murphy, who plead Justification; alledging that he was a Foreigner, ignorant of their Usages and Laws; that the Woman was no Christian, having never been baptized; and that not having the Fear of God before her Eyes: what he had done was altogether accidenta [...]

[Page 58]If the Club Bearers ever relinquish, or lay down their Clubs through any Mishap or [...]e­cessity; before they encircle the Object of their Vengeance, they dare not resume them again, as it is presumed, that it was so ordered by their God, in tender Mercy to the Delinquents, who are accordingly acquitted of that Offence.

Upon the Decease of an Adult of either Sex, the Friends and Relations of the Decedent re­ligiously collect whatever he or she held most dear in Life, and inter them close by and some­times in their Owner's Grave. This pious Tribute to their Dead includes Horses, Cows, Hogs and Dogs, as well as Things inanimate. A Girl of about 16 Years of Age died a few Days before I left the Nation. She had procured from a Spanish Officer at Pensacola, a likely Boar-Pig of the Spanish Breed, which she brought Home, and cherished in her Bo­som, until he waxed strong, and became an useful Member in his Generation. Now when her Brethren, and the young Men of the Land, perceived that the Damsel was dead; they arose up and pursued after the Boar and slew him. And a certain young Man of the House of Illesenekaw stood up in the Midst of the Congregation, and said; I will go unto my Lord the King and unto the Elders and Chief Men of the Land, and say unto the Verily [Page 59]the Big Boar of Chattaboutchee is slain; by the Arrows of the Sons of Ninewaw is he fallen! And they said unto him Go: And he departed and went unto the King, and unto the Elders and Chief Men of the Land, and reported all these Things; saying, Verily the Big Boar of Chattaboutchee is slain, by the Arrows of the Sons of Ninewaw is he fallen. And when the King and the Elders and Chief Men heared thereof, they drank strong Drink and grew exceeding Wroth, saying; the Blood of the Boar be upon the Head of those, who have wrought this Evil in Coweta; for they wist not that the Damsel was dead —This extraordinary Circumstance extorted from me an Epitaph on the Damsel and the Boar, who are now Jointenants of one Grave.

The Creeks regularly make a Burnt Offer­ing of what they conceive to be the most de­licious Parts of every Animal taken in Hunt­ing, before they presume to taste a Mouthful. The Parts they commit to the Flames are proportioned to the Size of the Animal, pro­bably about 2 or 3 lb. from a Buffalo, and still less in a regular gradation down to the smallest Quadrupede, Fish or Bird,

[Page 60]The Creeks like the Ot [...]beiteans as menti­oned in Cook's Voyages, have a Custom of T [...]towing themselves, and probably upon simi­lar Principles. The young and old of both Sexes undergo this Operation in Silence, and without the least muscular Distortion. I saw it per [...]oru [...]ed upon a Child of 4 Years old, who when released gave a Shout, and said, now " [...] a Man, and a Warrior too."

Those who live in Townships are Tenants in Common of large extensive Fields of Corn, Rice and Potatoes, which commonly lie on the fat low-Grounds of some River conveni­ent to their Towns.

The Cultivation of the Soil and almost every domestic Drudgery are imposed upon their Wo­men, who are less prolific than ours; probably owing to their hard Labour and excessively co [...]rse and scanty Liet. A long rainy Season had rendered their Fields so quaggy that all Cultivation was impracticable; they durst not even venture to cut down the tall rank W [...]s which towered above their Corn. In this ge­neral Distress an old Conjuror, of the Na [...] of S [...]n [...]h [...]wgo stept forth into the Square, and thus harrangued the listening Crowd:

"Men & Wariours of Coweta Broken-Arrow & Cussatee.

"THE great God of Thunder and Light­ning and of Rain, who stands upon the aerial [Page 61]Battle­ments of Heaven, hath raised his angry territonous Voice, and with the Lightnings [...]ashing from his Eyes, hath rent the Bosom of the Clouds! He hath hidden the Sun be­hind the Moon, and covered her Face with a Bear-Skin: With the Tails of numerous Bea­vers, he hath conceal'd the twinkling Stars! We have been Traitors to our God, to Hip­pu ilk Mee [...], to Lauco Wasington; We have rejected the good Talk of Hippo ilk Meco, and listened to the lying; Talk of Cherokees! We have infringed the Treaty with Lauco Wash­ington in stealing Horses from his Children! Our young Men refuse to hunt:—their Guns are rusty and their Hatchets dull! They sell their Horses, Cloaths and silver Ornaments for Rum. Our Women laugh at us and re­fuse to work: they are Prostitutes and suckle the Children of white Men! Our Men are worse than the Excrement of Dogs or Spani­ards: —Our Women viler than the Urine of [...]-Cats or the Vomit of Buzzard [...]! For these Causes are our Fields [...]renched by the angry Clouds of the Firmament.

When will the gladsome Rays of Sol return and de [...]iccate our flooded Fields? Ah! never till in Dust and Ashes we repent, and forsake our evil Ways. Men and Warriors, let us confess our Faults and amend our Manners; [Page 62]and then Sawgee Putchehassee will forgive us, and bid the Sun to shew himself, and with a genial Warmth revive our drooping Corn.—My Sons, I'm very old and chilly; the Mar­row of my Bones is dry, and scarcely creeps the Blood along these Veins, which once in rapid Currents flow'd—I want a Keg of Rum. —My Daughters, I have fasted for three Days and Nights, and invoked my God in your Behalf.—I am hungry as a Wolf.—I want to eat some Hog and Hominy."

A plaintive dull Monoty constitutes the vo­cal Music of the Creeks. They are passion­atey fond of instrumental Music, particularly that of the Violin, to which like Persons bit­ten by the Turantula, they will dance for se­veral Hours without the least Intermission.

No People under Heaven are more attached to, or swerve less from, the Customs of their Ancestors than the Creeks. Whether this At­tachment originates in filial Piety, or in Igno­rance I cannot determine: But as a Clue for Con­jecture, let me relate their Mode of Cropping.

They plant their Corn in Holes at an une­qual, tho' never greater Distance than Tobac­co Hills, from one another. Twenty or thirty Grains are frequently thrown into an Hole [Page 63]which produce as many earless Stalks, and which they will upon no Consideration suffer to be thin'd. They say a plough is nothing but a Horse-trap, and therefore never use it, contenting themselves with light Weeding Hoes, with which they barely scalp the grassy Surface of their Fields. Their Inclosures are Fork and Rail Fences just high enough to keep out horned Cattle. Whilst their Crops are in the Ground they tether out their Horses, Hogs &c, to Trees, Stumps and Stakes. Tho' they have numerous limpid Streams of excel­lent Spring Water gushing from their River Banks, yet like old Seneca they prefer the tepid Waters from their Creeks and Rivers. They scarcely ever weed, hill, prime, top or succour their Tobacco, and always cut and cure it very green over an hasty blast of Fire, as they do their Killicanic or Sumac Leaves, which when mixed with Tobacco, emit a most delightful Odour from the Pipe. This Preparation of S [...]mac and Tobacco, the Indians constantly [...]oke and consider as a sovereign Remedy in a [...]cephalic and pectoral Complaints.

The Creeks in approaching the Frontiers of Georgia, always encamp on the right Hand side of the Road or Path, assigning the left as ominous, to th [...] Larv [...] or Ghosts of their departed Heroes w [...] have either unfortunate­ly [Page 64]lost their Scalps, or remain unburied. The Ghost of an Hero in either Predicament, is refused Admittance into the Mansions of Bliss, and sentenced to take up its invisible and dark­some Abode, in the dreary Caverns of the Wilderness; until the Indignity shall be reta­liated on the Enemy, by some of his surviving Friends.

Agriculture among the Creeks is little un­derstood and less practised.—I know of but one Man in the whole Nation, who pcssesses tolerable Industry, and that is a private Citi­zen, called the Bully, who from a very hum­ble Beginning hath accumulated an easy For­tune, consisting of the following Species of Property, viz. Of Negroes, 16 Men, 19 Wo­men and 26 Children. Of Horses, 5 Studs, 32 Geldings, 127 Mares and 83 Colts. Of black Cattle, 19 Bulls, 58 Steers, 326 Cows, and 132 Calves. Of Hogs about 300 Head; besides Houshold Furniture, Peltry and Sto [...] Goods, to a very considerable Amount. Tw [...] likely young Wenches between the Ages 15 and 20, are the only Children the Bully has, and from his advanced Age, its probable he will never encrease the Number. It is said the Black Dog is a Man of Property, the' a most egregious [...] [...]nd [...]gard.—I once saw his Majesty in a Pud [...] of his own Ex­crement [Page 65]and Urine, which attracted Swarms of Spanish Flies and Beetles, whose constant Buzz had l [...]l'd him into sweet Repose. T [...] [...]ow­e [...] of their Kings appear to be very [...] ­scribed and [...] a Par with those [...] common [...] Magistrate with us, the [...] ­mits of their respective Governments being sometimes [...] to a single Township, [...] a Spot of [...] not more than Ten Mi [...] Square. M'Gillivray who is perpetual Dic­tator, in Time of War subdelegates a [...] ­ber of [...] for the Direction of [...] Operations; and when the [...] they, in Compensation [...] Achievements are invested by the Dictator [...] civil Authority which [...] Powers of their [...] Kings.

June 29th. The Little King of the Brok­en-Arrow returned, and furnished me with the following Catalogue of Indian Words, with a literal Translation to each by Mr. Da [...]isou [...] Linguist [...] the Lo [...]er Creeks.

• [...], God or the [...] and Ta [...]er of Breath.
• [...] the good child king.
• [...] the great [...].
• [...], the mad Light­wood.
• [...]
• [...] the mad King.
• [...] by his Side.
• So [...] [...]
• [...].
• [...], the [...].
• [...].
• [...]
• [...] for the Day.
• [...]
• [...]
• [Page 66] Putch-sun An axe,
• Wawraw Nu [...], a Bull.
• Chutksacv [...], a Bridle.
• Hatchee, a Creek.
• Atcher, Corn.
• H [...]cussee, a Child.
• Etchoo, a Deer.
• Toatson, an Eye.
• Ah. Hissee, my Friend.
• C [...]po i [...]oka, an Hat.
• Chatto, Iron.
• Meco, a King.
• O [...]wina, Land.
• Is [...]e Hatkee, a white Man.
• Iste Chautee, an Indian or red Man.
• Istee Luste, a negro or black Man.
• Hoakta, a Woman.
• Stignee, an Owl.
• Cat [...]a, a Panter.
• Chuloc, an Horse.
• Itch [...]n, a Gun.
• Slaufc [...]u, a Knife.
• Cappo, a Coat.
• Cappo La [...]co, a great Coat.
• Chautee, Blood.
• Stillepiga, a Maccoson or Shoe.
• Itlee, a tree.
• Toatka, Fire.
• Tos [...]na, Bacon.
• Wawcaw Pissee, Milk.
• Wawcaw Pissee Nehaw, Butter.
• Wawcaw Pissee Tuckaliga, Cheese.
• Tuckaliga, Bread.
• Ockchaunswaw, Salt.
• Haswaw, Penes.
• Hasnilcaw, Testiculi.
• Chulua, Pude [...]um Moliebre.
• Hi [...]ska, F [...]eminam subagistare.
• Pissee, the Breast.
• Epha, a Dog.
• Epha Hoakata, a Bitch.
• Naw [...]see, a Bear.
• Chawcawcaw, a Goose.
• Futchu, a Duck.
• Pinnua, a Turkey.
• Ilklo, a Squirrel.
• Fuswaw, a Bird.
• Chafee, a Sheep.
• Chafoch [...], a Hare or little Sheep.
• Wootcon, a Racoon.
• Suka, a Hog.
• Suka Hatkee, an Opossum or white Hog.
• Telafo, a Town.
• P [...]nunga, an Indian Talk.
• Nin [...]ce Hee Mattee? is this the Way?
• Iste na af [...]cha? where are you going?
• N [...]c [...]u Pen [...]acola? I am go­ing to Pensacola.
• Isle nata is [...]a? where did you come from?
• Nataesca New Orleans. I came from New-Orleans.
• Wee Hu [...]unee, Rum, or strong Water.
• Fo in Chumba, a Bee, or a Fly in Sweetness.
• Netta Hassee, the Sun.
• Netlee Hassee, the Moon.
• Cochiechumba, a Star.
• Tustaniga, a Warrior.
• Telawgo Hatchee, Pea Creek, and Chaulee Hatchee, Red River from a Bay of great Extent between St. Marks and Pensacola.
• Wee launco Hatchee, yellow water River, makes a large Bay in Sight of Pensacola.
• Wee Lust [...]e, black Water Creek, empties into yellow Wa­ter River.
• Wes Hatkee, white Water Creek, and Wee [...]. Cold Water Creek, empty into Conakee Hatchee, which forms the Bay of Pensacola.

[Page 67]Took my Departure from the Nation in Company with a Mr. John Turvin, who in Course of the last War, to escape the Persecu­tion of the Georgians fled for Protection to the British Standard, where he continued till the Surrender of St. Augustine, from whence he repaired to the Creek Nation, took a Wife, and commenced a Trader. He is a friendly honest Man, though very irritable when he conceives the least Indignity offered to him. To sooth his captious Temper which involved both him and me in frequent Difficulties, I had Recourse to Adulation, such as, I'm sur­prised Mr. Turvin, that a Gentleman of your good Sense should condescend to word it with such low-liv'd Wretches! —You, who have been educated in the British Camp, among Officers of the first Rank and Dignity!—Fie! Fie! For a Gentleman to put himself upon a Level with such Cattle!

June 30th. Late in the Evening we arriv­ed at an old deserted Indian Village, situate on the Banks of Flint River, near an Hun­dred Miles from Chattahoutchee, with which it unites, and empties into the Ocean 50 Miles South of St. Marks.—About 30 Families from the Chattahoutchee Townships are re­settling this Place. The late Rains had forced the River out of its Banks and rendered [Page 68]it impassable to Mr. Turvin's Horses which Were loaded with Beaver-Skins. In this per­plexity two young Fellows very opportunely came up and proffered their Assistance in the Construction of a Raft, composed of the Tim­bers from the old Village Houses.—When we had crossed the Stream, they proposed going with us as far as the foederal Fort on the Oconee, to which we readily assented, and found them very tractable in rendering every possible Aid in similar Predicaments.

July 2 Encamped on the Banks of Ock­mulga about 30 Miles from Flint. Here also we had Recourse to our India Friends for an­other Raft as well as a Shelter from a most vio­lent Rain which was then descending. They soon constructed both; the former with dry Logs, the latter with the Bark of Pines— Ockmulga unites with the Oconee, and forms the Alatamaha which empties into the Sea North of St. Mary's River, and is navigable for Vessels of 40 or 50 Tons Burthen 300 Miles from its Mouth. Late in the Evening arrived at, and continued on the Banks of the Oconee, which was impassible for two Days.—Here our Provissions were exhausted, and Turvin and myself appeared like Men without Hope, having left all our Ammunition on the South Bank of the Ockmulga at our last Encamp­ment [Page 69]We communicated our Distress and Misfortune to our Indian Friends. They smiled at our Perplexity, and without inform­ing us of their Intentions, immediately took different Routes, and in about 3 Hours re­turned, one with an Opossum, the other with about a Peck of Turtle Eggs, on which we fared sumptiously during our two Days Con­finement.

July — Early in the Morning we divested ourselves of all our Cloathing, and confined it on the Tops of the Beaver Packs; then each Man with one end of a long Rope tied round his Horse's Neck, and holding the other in his left Hand, plunged into the Stream and swam to the opposite Shore. In this hazardous and voluntary Attempt we in some Measure imitated what Caesar did through Accident and Love of Fame, when cast away. Thus hav­ing braved Oconee's rough, rocky, rapid Stream which was then upwards of 200 Yards in Width, we resumed our Dress, mounted our Nags, and in 2 Hour's Time reached the Foe­deral Fort on the Eastern Bank of the River, about 10 Miles below the Place where we crossed, and 2 Miles below the Rock Land­ing. At the Fort I continued 4 Days; being invited by Major Call, Capt. Rudolph, Lieut. Martin and Ensign Clay to spend the Anni­versary [Page 70]of American Independence with them. The Rejoicings of the Day were ushered in by the Discharge of Musketry and Cannon under the Direction of skillful Officers in each Department, at whose Expense a genteel Din­ner was provided under a spacious Booth; to the Participation of which, Ladies and Gen­tlemen from the Country were invited. Se­veral sentimental Toasts suitable to the Celi­brity of the Day were drank, and at 6 o'Clock the Company repaired to a large Room in Town and partook of an excellent Supper, af­ter which, with the Introduction of Minuets, Cotillions and Country Dances, the Evening was closed to the entire satisfaction of all Par­ties. On this Occasion Major Call with his usual Politeness invited my two Indian Com­panions, who expressed a strong Desire to en­list into our service, in which they concluded that a Man might wear fine Cloaths and fare sumptuously every Day. The Town lies about half a Mile below the Fort, and the Buildings at both Places, consist of very rough, slight Materials, as if intended merely to answer a temporary Shelter for a few Sojourners The Citizens however like other Southern People, are indolent, luxurious, fond of gaudy Appa­rel and pompous Equ [...]page. Hither the Crack Indians. since their late Treaty with Congress, bring their Peltry, Furs, &c. in Barter for [Page 71]West-India and European Goods to the almost entire Exclusion of their former Merchants at Mobille, Pensucola and St. Marks.—In Dig­ging a Well at this Place near the River Bank, the Workmen discovered many Strata of white black and red friable Loam, which are ap­propriated to three several Uses, viz: the whit [...] for Starch, the black for Soap and the red for common Paint. The latter Kind excited the Curiosity of an Indian so far, that I saw him industriously employed near an Hour, in the Collection of about a dozen Pounds which he carefully packed away in his Paint-bag.

July—.Took our leave of this Place at about 10 o'Clock, and by 4 in the Evening arrived at, and passed through Washington, a small Township situate on the South Side of Oguechee River, at the upper End of the Falls, and moved on to another little Town about a Mile below it on the North Side, at the mouth of the Falls. I had only a transient View of these little Towns, which appeared to have been very lately erected; a Description there­fore cannot be expected. At Sunset, encamped about half a Mile from the Road, convenient to a Spring, on whose little Stream, our Horses met with most delightful tender vir­gin Cane. Here I undertook to teach Turvin the Lord's Prayer, which he soon learned, [Page 72] having, as he said, had some little Smattering of it before he went to the Creek Nation and married a damn'd Heathen.—After a short Repose in order to avoid the sultry Heat of Noon, we arose, collected our Horses, and pursued our Journey till 10 o'Clock the next Day, when we halted and refreshed ourselves and Nags till 3. At 5 o'Clock we passed the Battle Ground where Turvin had been de­feated by the Creeks, previous to our War with Britain. The Recollection of former Disasters rendered him somewhat phlegmatic; but when at 6 we came in Sight of the House in which he had been born and raised to Man's Estate, and from which he had been driven

What's the Matter my Friend, you appear to be melancholy? Oh! no Nothing, in parti­cular:—I was thinking about some Parts of the Lord's Prayer. What Parts my Friend? Why, that Part where i [...] says "as we forgive them that trespass against us," its very good I agree, but by G—d I don't think it will ever be in my Power to comply with it.

Encamped within 15 Miles of Augusta, the Metropolis of Georgia, and entered it early the next morning.—Here my Friend Turvin [Page 73]and I separated, with mutual Expressions of Re­gret, and solemn Assurances of lasting Friend­ship, and future Rememorance. He wished me Health, Peace and Competence, and advised that whenever I should encamp in the Woods, always to raise a good [...]ire, and sleep with my Feet next to it. I wished him the like, and recommended to his particular Attention the Lord's Prayer, as the best Directory that was ever given to man.

The Soil, from Pensacola to Augu [...], except upon the Water Courses where it is very fertile wears the gloomy Face of uniform Sterility; tho' being in a mild Region, is more Productive than Ground of a similar Appearance in Vir­ginia —I was much pleased with Au [...]sta and its high level Situation, but more so with her Citizens and the reputable Families in its Vi­cinage. Previous to my Arrival here I was told by common Fame, that a great propor­tion of them consisted of insolvent Refugees. from the northern States: but this is not the only Instance in which her Ladyship hath di­viated from the Line of Truth and Candour. Influenced by some Nabobs in the Modern Colchis, she hath also misrepresented the whole State of Georgia, together with all Persons and Things whatsoever, unto her belonging or in any wise appertaining.

[Page 74]A wonderful Spirit for Building seems to have permeated every Rank and Class of Peo­ple in and about this Place—A fine elegant Bridge of superior Strenth to any of its Size I ever saw, stretches itself over the noble River Savannah, right abreast of the Town, where it is navigable for Vessels of 50 or 60 Tons Burthen. The Bridge, together with many fine Houses now erected and erecting here and in its Neighbourhood, do honor to Auguste, which will e're long vie with, if not eclipse the former Seat of Government, in Buildings, Population, Trade and Commerce.—The Au­gu [...]tians are remarkable for their Generosity and Politeness, the Effects of which, I as a [...]tranger particularly experienced, at the Hands of two professional Gentlemen, Messrs Smelt & Wil­hamt [...]m. —During my Continuance in this Neighhoorhood, I paid a Visit to his Excel­lency William Telfair, the present Governor of the State. He appeared to be a worthy honest Man, endowed with plain good Sense and great Simplicity of Manners. I am told that he is an Encourager of Agriculture and Mechanics, a good Moralist and bounteous Benefactor to the m [...]ritorious Poor and Indigent. After having spent an agreeable Time at this Place, in the Society of both old and new Acquain­tance. I proceeded down the River in a long Keelbottomed decked Boat, laden with 72 [Page 75]Hogsheads of Tobacco, and several Thousand Pounds Weight of various Kinds of Peltry. &c. This [...]oat had a decent Cabin sufficiently large for the Accommodation of the Captain and myself.

Just below Augusta large extensive Corn and Tobacco Fields commence, and from their Luxuriance of Growth evince the amazing Fertility of Soil. On Beech Island and the Plantations of Messrs Bugg and Watkins, I saw Cornfields of equal, if not superior Growth and Production, to the best Spots in Kentuckey. On the 4th Day of our Passage from Augusta, we anchor'd abreast of Ebenezer, an old incon­siderable and declining Village, situate on an high commanding Bluff, on the Georgian Side, from whence runs off a great Extent of level, tho' very sandy, piney barren Land—Here the British Troops, whilst in Possession of Savan­nah in 1779, established a Garrison of about 1500 Men, aided by a good Train of Artillery, strong Fortifications and deep Intrenchments, which however were no Impediment to the rapid Career of General Wayne, at the Head of his victorious Myrmidons.

At Break of Day weighed Anchor and pro­ceeded down to a Col. M—e's on the North Side of the River, in Order to land some Dry Goods for a neighboring Gentleman, Previ­ous [Page 76] ous to my Arrival at his House, the Captain had given me a particular Detail of his puni­tory Inflictions, on the Tories and others dur­ing the last War, all which he carried on under the specious Pretext of his being a Whig-Offi­cer in the American Service; tho' in Fact no­thing more than a common Free-booter. I shall ever remember the Voice and patibulary, Cain-like Countenance of the Man, when the Captain introduced him to me. Tho' he is very uxorious of his present Spouse, and ten­der of her Offspring, yet common Report does not hesitate to say, that he dispatched his for­mer Wife and only Son, by a Bowl of strong and deadly Poison, which he imposed upon them as a Dose of Indian Physic.

— OR THUS: —

July 20th. Early in the Morning weighed Anchor, and took a final Adieu of this Son of Iniquity.—Before the dread Tribunal of Almighty God he must e're long appear, and [...]ceive his final Doom—May the Lord [...] Mercy on his Soul!—At Noon we passed a small and almost depopulated Town, on the North Side of the River, called Puris­burg, which was once to Savannah, what Ger­man-Town is now to Philadelphia. Late in the Evening of this Day, our Pilot run our Vessel aground, opposite to the Seat of the late Ma­jor General Greene, where we continued until 4 o'Clock P. M. of the succeeding Day, when with Difficulty we got afloat, by the Assistance of the General's Slaves,

Here begin on both Sides of the River very extensive Fields of Corn, Rice and Indigo, convenient to which are Mills, Vats, &c to [Page 78] manufacture the Produce:—but when I turn my View toward the numerous Herds of poor miserable Slaves, whose Powers of Body are worn down amidst Stripes and Insults, in clearing Woods and draining Marshes, my very Soul revolts and sickens at the Thought.

From this Place to Savannah, the Eye is de­lighted with a continued Succession of beau­teous Farms and elegant Buildings, inhabited by gay and liberal Proprietors, who in general appear to be of French Extraction.—Came abreast of the City about 8 o'Clock at Night, and altho' denied the Light of Moon or Star, [Page 79] yet a tall white sandy Bluff [...]ttiguous to the public Wharf served as a Pharos to direct our Vessel safely into Port.

Early the next Morning took Breakfast, and engaged Lodgings at the City Coffee House, and then fauntered till 10 o'Clock thro' the most public Parts of the City, in order to see, or be seen by, some old Friend or Cro [...]y, who might probably be engaged upon a similar and equal­ly important Business with myself. To my great Joy, the first Person that saluted me was Col. Joseph Habersham, a Gentleman who in the Course of the last War, had been a Refugee in the County of Ambe-st, where I then re­sided, and got acquainted with him.—He is a Gentleman of strict Honor and Integrity, a safe Companion, and an easy Friend, and tho' a Mortal, he cannot be altogether exempt from the Failings of Humanity, yet few and trivial as they are, they always 'lean to Virtue's Side.' By this Gentleman I was introduced to Ge­neral M'Intosh, with whom I had been for­merly acquainted, whilst on his Way to join the grand Army in the North. As an Officer he is too generally known to require any En­comium from my Pen; but as a private Citi­zen is a most excellent Model for the State. He is descended from a very antient Family in ScotLand. [...] is Father who was a famous [Page 80] Chieftain of a numerous Highland Clan, and remarkable for his Valour, and that rare Vir­tue in a Soldier, called Temperance, fell in Battle [...] whilst our H [...]ro was yet a Minor, and bequeathed th [...] Virtues to his Son, with an Injunction on him to settle in America as soon as he should attain the Age of 21. His Mother whose Christian Name was Fortune did not long survive her Husband; On her Death-bed, she called our Hero to her (for he was her favo­rite Son) and thus addressed him:—"My Son the Patrimony which my honoured Husband and your valiant Father left you, may [...]e of Service to you, in the Hurly Burly Scenes of blustering War, it is therefore my Request, that you never part with them:—but as when you come to be old, you may exchange the Army for the peaceful Walks of Life, I here deliver into your Possession for a Beginning, all my Dower, consisting of two faithful Hand­maids named Industry and Frugality—Take them my Son, and use them well—they'll be of Service to you, whether you go to America or continue here; tho' my Advice is to obey your Father's last Request"—Blessed with a vigorous Constitution and a vi [...]tuous Educati­on, our Hero crossed the Atlantic and settled in the State of Georgia, bringing along with him his paternal and maternal Legacies. By Means of the former he rose to high Preferment [Page 81] in The United States Army; and by the latter hath accumulated an almost immense and princely Fortune.

In this Place I spent 3 Days, chiefly at the Houses of the two last mentioned Gentlemen, Being much relaxed by Fatigue and Heat of Weather, I declined taking such an accurate View of the City, as I at first intended. It is however happily situated for both foreign and internal Trade, as verging on The Atlantic to the East, and lying abaut Midway on the in­land Navigation, which extends from Charles­ [...]on to St. Mary's River, the Southern Extre­mity of the United States.

Savannah is, and ever will be, a Place of Opulence, so long as human Nature shall re­quire Food and Raiment, or, Commerce spread her Canvass to the Wind.

July —About 2 o'Clock P. M. went on Board a large Packet Schooner, bound to Charleston, and commanded by a Captain Ross, in Company with Major Butler, a Congressi­onal Senator, Mr.— a Charleston Merchant and Miss — of Savannah. In this Com­pany I promised myself a pleasant Passage en­livened with agreeable Conversation, in which however I was miserably disappointed; for no sooner had we put to Sea, than squally Wea­ther [Page 82] ther and adverse Winds arose, and so tost and rock'd our Vessel, that "we reeled to and fro and staggered like drunken Men, and were at our Wit's End."— In this Situation we conti­nued till 10 o'Clock the following Day. The Agitation of the Vessel brought on a violent Sea sickness upon all The Passengers except my­self, and lasted with little intermission, till we made the wished for Port of Charleston—Be­tween the Paroxisms of the Major's Qualms, I found him to be a lively conversable Gentle­man, possessed of a great Fund of Wit, sound Judgment, and good Breeding.—The last Morning of our Passage, I saluted the Mer­chant with, a good Morning to you Sir, how does Mr.—find himself to day? Why Sir; I have cast up my Accounts over and over again, and find myself, upon striking a Balance, a bet­ter Man by an Hundred Per Cent, than I was this Time Yesterday, He! He! He! And pray how does Miss — find herself? I thank you Sir, I'm inclin'd to believe I think I [...] a little better at the Stummick.

August 1st. Entered Charleston about two o'Clock P. M. and immediately repaired to M'Crady's Hotel, which I had been told was, and found to be superior to any other in the City, whether for its Accommodations, the Civility of its Master, or, the amazing Con­course [Page 83] of polite People from all the other States who frequent it. At this Hotel General Wash­ington on his late Visit through the Southern States took up his Residence, and during which Persons of all Ranks vied with each other in paying every Homage to him, which Gratitude could excite, and splendid [...]ables, Garb and Equipage attest.

The Situation of Charleston, the Character of her Citizens and the Nature of her Police fit her for Trade and Commerce, which how­ever are not driven to that Extent as is observ­able in some Northern Towns which do not possess the third Part of her Opulence. The Topography of this City, is too generally known to require any Description from my Pen. I shall therefore only observe that in Point of Prospect, it eclipses all other Cities in the Union and is inferior to only Three in Size, Wealth, Population, Trade and Elegance of Buildings. Her Citizens are a gay, luxurious People, fond of Dress and pompous Equipage, in which they give the Ton to Augusta and Savannah, who are most excellent Copyists. Was the young Phaeton of this State with his servile Imitators, to repair to Charleston, he would be to the Gentry there, what his Imitators here, are to him.

At M'Crady's I formed an Intimacy with Andrew Robertson, Esq who had beer, a Cap­tain [Page 84] in the British Service, which he quitted up­on [...] honorable Conn [...]xion with a Staten Is [...] young Lady of most exquisite Beauty. The [...] and manly Appearance of young Ro­bertson attracted the Attention of the young Lady, which he improved by his Assiduity, and most excellent good Sense. Altho' Miss was strongly fortified by Whiggism, yet she was ul­timately obliged to succumb to the Prowess of the young Officer, and about a Year ago be­came his Bride. This Gentleman is nearly re­lated to the celebrated Robertson, Author of the History of the Reign of Charles the Fifth, Em­peror of Germany, and under whose plastic Hand he received the Rudiments of that liberal Edu­cation, which so eminently distinguish and a­dorn his Character. From this Place I paid a Visit to Col. William Washington, whom I found in Company with my old Preceptor the Rev. Mr Wilson. They were seated opposite to each other, about 5 Feet asunder, separated by two Wine Glasses and a Decanter of gene­rous old Mad [...]ira. Upon my Entrance into the Room, after the first Gratulations and mutual Professions of Friendship were over, a third Glass and another Decanter (as if by Enchantment) made their Appearance on the Table, and the Duumvirate was soon converted into a Triumvirate by the Addition of their humble Servant. Here gentle Reader, let me [Page 85] whilst Friendship and the generous Glass ex­pand my Heart, detain thee, with what Gra­titude commands, in listening to my humble Eulogy of Washington. 'Twas just after Har­mer's Defeat that these Thoughts occurred.

Every Body is, or ought to be, acquainted with the Brilliancies of this Gentleman as an Officer and Soldier:— extraordinary as they are, his mil [...] engaging Virtues in the peaceful Walks of Domestication, and in Society of Friends, keep an equal Pace with his military Talents, and draw from his admiring Coun­trymen, the Plaudits of Sincerity.

—OR THUS.—

[Page 86] August 6th. Returned to my Lodgings where I found Capt Robertson under Preparation for a Duel with Capt. Sweetman, an English Gentleman and Merchant.—I acted as a Me­diator betwixt them, and happily terminated the Dispute to their mutual Satisfaction, by decrecing, that they both possessed indubitable Courage, which was often called into Action by their too punctilious Adhe [...]ence to the mi­litary Character; for which their respective Countries had for many Centuries been so re­markable, and contributed equally with anti­ent Greece and Rome to give the historic Pen a just and full Employ—That inheriting these national Principles, what they had done, might be fairly traced up to the Source of an Amor Pugna [...] [...]:—That Capt. Sweetman had been too precipitat [...] and Capt Robertson too hasty:— that they therfore make their reciprocal Con­cessions, and be at Peace; and that neither might infringe the Punctilios of military Eti­quette, they should stand 10 Yards asunder, then advance to the Centre, make their Con­cessions at the same Instant, protruding their dextral Hands, until they came into Conta [...]on, as an Indication and Declaration of a Continua­tion of Pacification: that they should then re­pair to the Hotel and take a Comp [...]ation of a late Importation from the Madeira Plantation, in Corroboration of the aforesaid Pacification.

[Page 87] Quicquid volumus sacile credimus—The Du­ellist wishes to defend his Conduct. I will here transcribe the Sentiments of a modern Author upon the Subject of Duelling, which he ob­serves, has in many Countries a Law against it—but can never be prevented. The Law can inflict no greater Penalty for any Breach of it than Death; which the Duellist contemns—There are also some Cases of Injury which the Law cannot prevent, nor punish when commisted. These must be redressed by the Man who suffers, and by him ONLY. He is prompted to do this by something antecedent, and superior to all Law, and by a Desire as eager as Hunger or Lust; so that it is as easy for Law to prevent or restrain the two latter, as the former. Very luckily for us Occasions for the Gratification of this Passion occur but seldom: and though a Man may be restrained from a Duel by personal Fear, which is its only Counteractor, there are very few In­stances, perhaps none of its being prevented by considering it as a Breach of Law. In the Beginning of the last Century Duels were so frequent, particularly in France, as to oc­casion a severe Edict to prevent them—Indeed by their Frequency, they were by Degrees im­proved into Combats of 2, 3, and sometimes more of a Side—In those Days a French No­bleman was making up his Party to decide a [Page 88] Quarrel with another Man of equal Rank; it came to the Ears of the King, who sent to him one of the most rising Men at Court, with a Command to desist, assuring him of the strict Execution of the Edict in Case of Disobedi­ence—Every one knows the Attachment of the French to their Soverign, but yet it proved weak when set against this all-powerful Pas­sion. The Nobleman not only refused to obey the King, but actually engaged the Mes­senger to be one of his Party.—The above seem to be the principal Reasons why Duel­ling has so deep a Root in the Mind of Man —but there are others which come in Aid. The Desire of Superiority is of itself almost sufficient to produce this great Effect.

Having spent an agreeable Time among these gay and hospitable Citizens, I took my Departure on Board the Exchange Schoorser, the Property of Capt. Robertson. and com­manded by Capt. Baine; her Destination was to St. Mary's River in Quest of Live-Oak.

A Bostonian of the Name of James [...]oste, had [...] with the Captain to work his Passage from Charleston, [...] St. Mary's to New-York. He appeared to be about 50 Years of Age, and extremely anxious to see his Wife and five Children, whom he had lest in Boston about a Year before I saw him. [Page 89] He had been detained by Sickness. On the second Day of our Passage, being as yet in a State of Convalescence, he expressed in his Words and Actions a fixed Melancholy, ap­proaching to a State of Desperation. 'Twas about 2 o'Clock in the Morning, when Mr. Foote, to court the cooling Breeze, had seated himself upon the Quarter Deck and received an accidental Stroke from the Tiller on his Head.—He rose up and exclaimed, My God, My God, I cannot bear it all! and quickly dis­appeared.—I sincerely regret, that when I saw him melancholy and despondent, I had not spoken to him—I might probably have said Something to him, or done Something for him, that might have sooth'd the Anguish of his Soul, and by exciting Hope, have chased the gloomy Daemon from his Breast, and caused the poor despairing Mortal yet to live. This Voyage is usually performed in about 4 Days, though through the Inadvertency, or Ignorance of the Captain, we made it seven, having over-ran our Reckoning, and instead of St. Mary's sailed a considerable Distance up the St. John's River in East-Florida; when to our great Astonishment we were hailed by a Spanish Officer, who authoritatively de­manded of us, if we knew where we were? We answer'd Yes, in St. Mary's River—Gen­tlemen I can assure you, that you are mistaken; [Page 90] you are now in the Dominions of Spain, and have risqued the Forfeiture of your Vessel and Cargo, together with that of your Liberties. However you are welcome to depart— St. Mary's River the Place of your Destination, lies about 6 Leagues to the Eastward of this. We thanked the Officer, instantly put about, and in 5 Hours reached the Mouth of St. Mary's, cast Anchor, and waited the Approach of a Pilot.—On our Entrance into this fine River, I observed the Remains of an old Fort, composed of Portland Stone, Liverpool Brick, and strong Cement, which, from its Expo­sure to the Sun and Wind, hath acquired a greater Durability than either the Brick or Stone. The Channel at the Mouth, which extends above an Hundred Yards in Width, is generally from 3 to 4 Fathom deep, and in no Part less than 2 [...]. We navigated a large Schooner deeply laden about 16 Miles up this River, and met with no Impediment what­ever, A similar Distance we run up the St. John's, previous to our Arrival here— I think in Width and Depth they are nearly on a Par. The St. Mury's is navigable for Sloops &c. about 60 Miles— [...]oats may proceed on as far us the Lake which feeds this Stream.—It is about 8 Miles long and 3 Miles wide, situate in the Centre of a very extensive Swamp, and distant about 150 Miles from the Ocean. A [Page 91] small Town of the same Name with the Ri­ver, now in the early Dawn of Infancy, lies about 6 Miles up the Stream, where they have a Fort garrisoned by a Company of Foederal Troops—The Evacuation of this Fort was talked of when I left the Place, in Order to strengthen the Garrison stationary on the Oconee.

Disappointed in having our Frieght of Live Oak in Readiness, we had much Leisure on our Hands, which Capt Robertson and I re­solved to appropriate to the Exploration of several Parts of East-Florida—For this Pur­pose we chartered a small keel bottomed Boat, and taking four Oars-men with us, proceed­ed along the inland Navigation, which leads directly to the Neighbourhood of St. Augus­tine, which however we were not permitted to enter, and received repeated Intimations, that a speedy Return to St. Mary's would ar­gue the Height of Prudence in us, with which the Captain and I were by no means chargeable: For we had concerted no Plan or plausible Excuse by which we might elude the Vigilance or Jealousy of the Spanish Guarda Costas. Robertson carried in his Pocket, a Pencil and a small Book, in which he had made some rough Sketches of Charles­ton and St. Mary's. I wished his Book and [Page 92] Pencil had been in his—Bureau. Our Oars-men who were much alarmed, raised a Blanket Sail, and plied the Oar with unremitting Assiduity, until we reached St. Mary's, which exclusive of the Fort already mentioned, boa [...]ts two Stores, and a Tavern under the Direction of a Captain Kearns, who is a sensible, intelligent Man, and furnishes superior Accommodations than what are ge­nerally obtained in populous Cities. The River abounds in Scale and Shell-Fish, all excellent in their Kind, and is often over­shadowed by the Flight of numerous Flocks of Swans, Geese and Ducks. These aquatic Productions are perennial, and from the Fa­cility with which they are taken, render the Inhabitants near the Water, extremely averse to agricultural Pursuits.

Having now explored the principal Parts of West and had a cursory View of East-Flo­rida, I am induced to hazzard my Opinion founded on Observation as to the former, and on Conjecture as to the latter. This I shall do by a Quotation from Guthrie's Grammar, which conveys my Sentiments. "The Air of both East and West-Florida is pure and wholesome—The Size, Vigor, and Longevity of the Floridian Indians, in these Respects, far exceed their more Southern Neighbours [Page 93] the Mexicans"—and I think Propriety may add, with few Exceptions, their Northern Neighbours too.—The Soil of the Floridas, is in general sandy, especially near the mari­time Coasts, tho far from being unfruitful.—It produces two Crops of Indian Corn a Year, and Garden Vegetables in great Perfection and Abundance. Without Cultivation the Orange and Lemon Trees attain a proper Size, and produce a large and highly flavoured Fruit. The interior Country is hilly, and on the Flats adjoining, extremely rich and fertile, producing spontaneously, and in great Luxu­riance, similar Fruits, Vegetables and Gums with Georgia and the Carolinas; as also Rice, Indigo, Ambergrise, Cochineal, Amethysts, Lapis Lazuli, and other precious Stones; Copper, Quicksilver, Pit-Coal and Iron-Ore.

Pearls are found upon the Coasts—and Mahogany on the Southern Peninsula, but inferior in Size and Quality to that of Ja­maica.—The Animal Creation here, are in­credibly numerous.—What I have here advanced, must be taken under some Limi­tation; as in applies in toto and positively to East, and only in Part to West-Florida.

Milton's Ode on May Morning, often oc­cured to my Recollection, whilst traversing [Page 94] these delightful Regions, dressed out by the Hand of Nature, with Flowers selected from her Lap.

Here as I am on the extreme Southern Verge of the United States, and in a similar Latitude with the Place where I promised to subjoin a Catalogue of medicinal Plants, Herbs, &c. I will attempt a Compliance.

WHITE WALNUT. Juglans alba. The Creeks make a strong Decoction from the Bark of this Tree, and use it both as a Ca­thartic and a Dye. In the former, they dul­cify it with a little Honey, or the Syrup from the Sugar-Maple—It is very drastic in its Operation, and therefore administered with great Caution.

BLACK POPLAR. Populus nigra. Large Potions of a Decoction from the Bark of this Tree, especially the Root, is a sovereign An­tidote [Page 95] to the Bite of the Rattle-Snake and other Serpents—I was informed of this by General Clarke, whilst in Kentuckey, who had seen its salutary Effects on five different Soldiers un­der his Command. The constant Use the Indians make of it on similar Occasions, corroborates the General's Assertion.

DOGWOOD. Cornus Florida. The pul­verized Bark of this Tree, is cooling, drying, astringent and stomachic, and appropriated to similar Purposes among the Creeks that Je­suits Bark is among us, and for which it is most excellent Substitute.

THE CASSINE is a low umbrageous Tree: the Flower of which is patent, divided into five suboval, obtuse Segments larger than the Cup; the Fruit is a roundish [...] with three Cells, containing solitary suboval Seeds — 'Tis from the Leaves of this Tree, which are ser­rated and terminating in a Point, the Creeks make their Black Drink, of which they swal­low copious Draughts, whenever they con­vene in their Square or Hot-House, and which holding themselves erect, they as copiously regurgitate. I am unacquainted with its medicinal Virtues, if it has any.—It is used by the Spaniards as a Tea and has a superior Flavour to the Green Bohea, or Souchong.

[Page 96]SASSAFRAS. Laurus Sassafras. A yellow odoriferous Wood, of a brisk, aromatic Scent, somewhat resembling Fennel; being the Pro­duce of a Tree, of which there are whole Fo­rests growing in the Floridas, as well as in this State. The principal Virtue lies in the Bark, which warms, dries, rarifies, attenuates, at­tracts and promotes Sweats and Urine. The Indians deooct and use it in all venerial Com­plaints, and I am told with great Success.

ELDER. Sambucus nigra. The Creeks de­corticate the Stalk, and use the Bark in pecto­ral Decoctions. Sir William Temple extols it as a Medicine in dropsical Complaints. The Creeks express the Juice, and use it as a Lotion in Burns, Scalds and scabious Complaints.

SUMAC. Rhus. Applied to the first Pur­pose as mentioned of the Elder, as also to the Use of smoking with Tobacco.

POKE. Phytolacca decandra. The Creeks collect the Berries whilst in a greenish State, express the Juice, and expose it to the Sun until it coagulates, this they use in Plaisters over schirrous Sores, or to extract Briars, Thorns, &c. from their Hands and Feet.—I have known it to be used in extracting the Claws or Roots of Cancers, &c.

[Page 97]ASH. Frazinus Americana. A Decoction from the Root of prickly [...], is a good Pur­gative and Lotion in a con [...]rmed Lues; and as such is used by the Creeks.

JUNIPER. Juniperus. An Infusion of the Berries of this Tree, in Water or Spirits, is stomachic, expels Wind, clears the Lungs, provokes the Menses and remo [...]es Obstructi­ons of the Viscera.

LOBELIA. With a Decoction of the Root of this Plant, the Creeks cure the Vene­rial Disease in every Stage It usually grows in Meadows, and on the fat low-Grounds of Rivers, Creeks, &c. It has a beauteous crimson monopetalous Flower, and in Pro­perty is somewhat tingent. The Fruit is an oval Capsule, containing a great Number of very small Seeds. The Decoction is usually dulcified with Honey, which is a great Ap­perient. The Operation is by Stool, Urine, Sweat and Expectoration, all in a constant, though moderate Degree. Vide Buchan on a confirmed Lues, from the Beginning of Page 598 to the end of the Page following.

SERPENTARIA Virgi [...]i [...]a, is an alexi­pharmic and sovereign Remedy or Antidote against the Bite of the Rattle-Snake.— [...]e different species of Serpe taria or Snake [...] [Page 98] are universally known throughout the United States, by all [...] of People. The Kind I allude to is what is popularly called Rattle­snake [...]oot, which from its strong aromatic Smell, the Rattle-Snake will never approach, and is accordingly used by the Indians to banish that and other Serpents from their Lodgments.

VALERIAN, Valeriana Sylvestris, Ex Verb [...] v [...]ler. It is warm and aromatic, but somewhat foetid in its Scent. The Indians use it in nervous Disorders. Its Efficacy as a Sudorifis, is supported by the Testimony of both antient and modern Practice.

ANGELICA. Angelica Sylvestris. Is used as a Luxury in Smoking and Chewing.

ANA [...]A Is a Shrub of about five Feet high, bearing a red Flower, which the Creeks infuse in Water or decot. With this Infu­sion or Decoction, they dye their Leggens, Moccasons, Feathers, Belts, and other or­namental Parts of Dress.

The Seminolies who are connected with the Creeks, are said, though more unpolished in their Manners, to have a greater Know­ledge in Botany, than their more Northern or Western Brethren.

[Page 99] Sept.—Weighed Anchor, left St. Mary's, entered the Gulph Stream, and after a Pas­sage of Thirteen Days, reached the City of New-York; where, and in its Vicinage I continued about a Fortnight, experiencing Nothing more than common Civility from the Citizens.—The City of New-York is situate on Manhatan Island; being a large handsome, and populous Place; where there is an excellent Harbour, furnished wi [...] com­modious Quays and Ware-houses, from whence numerous Ships and other Vessels are annually employed in its foreign Trade and Fisheries.

Passed on in the New-York Packet Schooner to Brunswick, the Metropolis of New-Jersey, where I visited Col. White, who resides in this Place. He is a brave, generous, old, Continental Officer, and made a conspicuous Figure on the Theatre of the last American War with Britain. At this Place and in New-York, Messieurs Paine, Chevallie, Higbee, Laurence, and Griffin, Gentlemen from Virginia, rendered me po­lite Attention and Assistance.—Gratitude shall impress a long Remembrance of them [...] Tablet of my Heart. A young En­glishman of the Name of William Collier, during my Indisposition at New-York, dis­played [Page 100] played a Line of Conduct towards me, which does Honour to his Country and to human Nature.

This Indisposition arose from the Bite of a Ground Rattle Snake, on the Margin of St. Mary's River, in which I had been bathing. This little Reptile is about Fourteen Inches long, and about as thick as a Man's little Finger. It conceals itself in the Dust, and makes its malignant Stroke on the unwary and unsuspecting Passenger, which is equally fatal with the Bite of the larger Rattle-Snake or Moccason, and requires as speedy and powerful Antidotes to its baneful In­jections of strong and deadly Poison.— Providentially for me, it made its Punc­ture on the Cuticle of my great Toe, at the Adhesion of the Nail, which prevented a general Diffussion of the Poison into my Vi­tal Parts.

As I passed rapidly in the Stage through Princeton and Tren [...]on, on my Way to Phila­delphia, I must wave a Description of [...] former, and slightly touch upon [...] la [...]er which is a large, populous and exter [...] Place, the Capitol and Emporium of Penn­sylvania. In this charming City I continu [...] ten Days, though unfortunately often con­fined [Page 101] to my Room, from the Indisposition last mentioned. At Intervals of Ease, I could not refrain from strolling through va­rious Parts of the City, which for its Size and Regularity is unequalled by any other in the Union, and probably not surpassed by any in Europe, as to the latter. Her Mer­chants are very wealthy, and her Citizens in general, from their Industry and Frugality, raised above the Frowns of Indigence, and many, though in humble, modest Garb, far above a Mediocrity of Fortune.

Voltaire's Account of Pennsylvania, often occurred to my Recollection, whilst encircled by the humane unambitious Citizens of Philadelphia. In a Groupe of Quakers I particularly observed an itenerant Preacher, whose Aspect was a good Index of the Temper and Disposition of Quakers in general.—I will attempt a Description of him, by some Quotations from, and In­terpolations of, Mr. Dryd [...]n's Parish Priest.

In my Perambulations through Philadel­phia, (whose Police is most excellent) I do not recollect ever to have seen a Beggar, or heard that Prophanity and Vulgarity of Ex­pression, so common amongst the lower [Page 103] Class in all other populous Cities; but on the contrary, discovered all Ranks decently habited, with a Serenity of Countenance, mild Address, and in Steady, though moderate Pursuit of their respective Vocations.

A minute Description of this City is both foreign to my Purpose, and beyond my KEN. I shall therefore only convey my Sentiments in a few Lines of doggrel Verse, on three Gentlemen who reside in this Place, and from whom I have recieved Favors and Po­lite Attention.