¶ Articles for the due execution of the Statutes of Apparell, and for the reformation of the outragious excesse thereof, growen of late time within the Realme: Deuysed vpon the Quenes Maiesties commaundement, by aduise of her Counsell, the .vi. of May.
FIrst the Quenes highnes pleasure is, xxiiii. [...]en .viii. i. & .ii. Phil. & Ma. that the lawes heretofore made touchying the reformation of the excesse of Apparell, & namely the lawes made in Anno .xxiiii. Henrici .viii. and in Anno .i. & ii. Philippi & Marie, be obserued, and withall diligence put in execution.
And forasmuch as no sort of people haue so muche exceaded, or do daylye more excede in the excesse of Apparell, contrary to the saide Statutes, then suche as be of the meaner sort, and be least hable with their liuinges to mayntayne the same: Her Maiesties pleasure and straight commaundement is, that all Iustices and officers to whom the reformation thereof may appertayne, haue speciall regard to the obseruation and execution, with all seueritie of the lawe made .i. & .ii. Phi. & Ma. Anno .i. & .ii. Philip & Marie, purposely for that respect.
For the better order in the due execution of whiche statutes: for her highnes Chaumber, it is ordeined, the Lorde Chaumberlayne & the Vicechaumberlayne: The order in the Court. And for her Maiesties housholde, the Lorde Stewarde, the Treasourer, or the Comptroller, to appoint such trusty officers, as they shal thinke fit to haue in those two places speciall regarde to all suche as shall after. xiiii. dayes next folowyng the publication of this ordinaunce, presume to enter into the Court, otherwise apparayled, then is permitted by the sayde statute, and strayght to apprehende and to commit them to warde, there to remayne, tyll they shalbe duely punished for theyr offences, Time of execution. and vntill suche tyme, as they shall haue throughly payde and satisfied the penaltie of the sayde statute: Examining them first, howe long and howe often they haue sithen the time aboue written after the publication of this ordinaunce, worne the sayde apparell, who is theyr master, Punishment The master. and howe long they haue serued him, and how long it hath ben, that he hath knowen them to weare any part of the same Apparell. Vpon whiche examination, the master straight to be sent for, to appeare, yf the offence be founde in the Chaumber, before the Lorde Chaumberlaine, or Vicechaumberlayne, and before the Lorde Steward, Treasourer, or Comptroller, if it be founde in the housholde. And in case it shall appeare by any due meane, that the sayde master had knowledge of the sayd seruauntes abuse, so long tyme as in the sayd statute is prescribed: then to take of him a bande of two hundred markes, Punishment of the master to the Quenes highnes vse, to aunswere the forfayture fallen vpon him by the sayd statute, whiche bande yf he shall refuse, then to commit him to warde, there to remayne tyll he shall haue satisfied the penaltie. The said examination and obligation to be sent to one of the Quenes highnes remembraunces in the Exchequer, to be by them called vpon, according to the effect of the said statute: Forfayture. The parties appoynted to this execution, to haue for their paynes, the moitie of the forfayture appoynted by the lawe. Prouided that in case it shalbe thought fitte to be dispensed withall within the Court for any person vpon reasonable cause, the Lorde Chaumberlayne, or the Lorde Stewarde, knowing fyrst her highnes pleasure, Dispensatiō. shal and may licence them by wrytyng subscribed with one of their handes, testifying her Maiesties sayd pleasure, foreseyng that none of them do therby vse any apparell inhibited vnto them, but duryng suche time as they shall attende vpon her highnes person.
In London.And within the Citie of London and the Liberties of the same, the Maior and Court of Aldermen shall take and obserue the like order. That is to say, to appoynt in euery warde foure substanciall and well meanyng men, to see the sayd statute executed, in suche sort as it is ordeyned in the Court, and the said foure, or any of them, to examine all offendours in the sort aboue written, & apprehending them, to bryng them to the Alderman of the warde, he to commit them to prison, and to certifie the examination and confession, and such knowledge of iudgement of the trueth of the matter, as he can attayne vnto, aswell touchyng the master, as the man, to the Maior and Court of Aldermen: and they to certifie the same indelayedly into the Exchequer, to thintent the forfaytures may be aunswered. The saide foure folowyng the execution of the statute, Forfayte. to haue the moitie of the forfayture.
Innes of Court.The lyke order to be taken and folowed within the foure Innes of Cout, and in all the houses of Chauncery, by the principalles and auncientes of the houses, where are noted to be so great disorders at this present, as behoueth to be loked vpon.
Suburbes and places trempted.The same order to be folowed in lyke sort in the Suburbes, out of the liberties of London, and in Westminster, and in all other exempted places, by the officers of those places.
Cities and Townes.And finally like order to be obserued in all Cities, Townes, and Villages throughout the Realme. In all Cities and Townes corporate, the order to be executed by the Maior, Bayliffes, and other head officers. And in all Townes & Villages, the Iustices of peace in euery seuerall Shire, to folowe the like order, for the apprehention, examination, takyng of bandes, committing to pryson, and certificate into the Exchequer, according as is aboue sayd. The moitie of the penaltie to fall to the officer and officers, appointed to the execution of the lawe.
Countie Palentine.The Countie Palentine of Lancaster and Chester, to make certificate into the Exchequer there, and the Exchequer there, to the Chauncelour of the Duchy, and he to certifie the same into the Exchequer here, to thintent aboue sayde.
The doynges herein of all officers aswell in the Court, Certificat. as in London, in Cities and Townes corporate, and of the Iustices of all other places through the Realme, to be certified duryng the first two monethes after the publication of this ordinaunce to be made, to the Lorde Chauncelour of Englande, or to the Lorde keper of the great Seale, euery. xv. dayes, and after the sayde two monethes expired, the same to be made euery. vi. wekes, duryng the space of one whole yere, and so to continue as by the sayde Lorde Chauncelour, or Lord keper, shalbe prescribed. And finally that all Iustices of Assise in all their circuites, Iustic. of Ass. do enquire specially hereof.
It is not ment by any thyng aboue written, to take the libertie from any man, to make information agaynst any offendour in the premisses, and to enioy, yf the partie be conuicted, suche part of the penaltie as by the sayde lawe is appoynted, foreseyng that no man be twise conuicted for one offence.
And to thintent such as shalbe appoynted in the Court to the xecution of the premisses, may worke the more certainely: It is ordayned they shall haue deliuered vnto them a briefe of the said statutes, the like also to be deliuered and sent printed by them selues, to all partes and parties, where the perticuler knowledge therof may be thought fitte, for the better execution of the same.
Creat hose.And for the reformation of the vse of the monstruous and outragious greatnes of hosen, crept a late into the Realme, to the great Claunder therof, and the vndoyng of a number vsyng the same, beyng dryuen for the maynteynaunce therof, to seeke suche vnlawefull wayes, as by theyr owne confession haue brought them to destruction: It is ordayned as aboue sayde, that no Taylour, Hosier, or other person whatsoeuer he shall be, after the day of the Publication hereof, shall put any more cloth in any one payre of hosen for the outsyde, The outside. then one yarde and a halfe, or at the moste, one yarde and three quarters of a yarde of karsey, or of any other cloth, lether, or any other kinde of stuffe aboue that quantitie. And in the same hosen to be put only one kynde of lynyng, besides linnen cloth next to the legge, yf any shalbe so disposed, The lining. the sayde lynyng not to lye loose, nor to be bolstered, but to lye iust vnto their legges, as in auncient tyme was accustomed: Sarcenet, Moccado, or any other lyke thing vsed to be worne, and to be plucked out for the furniture of the hosen, not to be taken in the name of the sayde lynyng. Neyther any man vnder the degree of a Baron, to weare within his hosen any Veluet, Sattin, or any other stuffe aboue the estimation of Sarcenet, Veluet and Sattin. &c. or Taffata.
For the due and better execution and obseruation whereof, the Maior of London, and the rulers and officers of the Suburbes, and of Westminster, & other exempted places, shall immediatly after this Proclamation made, call before them in euery of theyr seuerall iurisdictions, all Hosiers or Taillours makyng hosen, dwellyng within the precinctes of the same, and shall bynde euery of them in the sūme of. Hosiers to be bounde. xi. poundes or more, as cause shall require, to the Quenes highnes vse, to obserue this part of this sayde Proclamation touchyng hosen, without any maner fraude or guile: whiche bandes as any shalbe founde to offende contrary to this ordinaunce they shall certifie into the Exchequer, with the name of euery suche ouendour. In all other Cities or Townes corporate, the Maior and head officers, shall do in all poyntes the lyke: And in all other places, the Iustices of peace. The officers of the Exchequer, to certifie the Lordes of the Quenes highnes priuie counsell at the beginning of euery Terme, Certificat. what bandes haue come, or haue ben sent into that office, touchyng the premisses tyll that day, and what number of them haue ben executed.
If any Hosier shall refuse to enter into suche bande, to be immediatly committed to warde, and to be suffred no more to continue his occupation.
The Maior of London, Searche. and all other officers in their iurisdictions and liberties, to make or cause to be made searche once within euery. viii. dayes in euery Horsiers house, to see what kynde of hosen they shall make, and fyndyng any suche as be inhibited by these orders, to see the punyshement thereof, as is aboue wrytten.
Fynally, no men vndispensed with, in such sort as is aboue sayde, be so hardie after. xiiii. dayes folowyng the publication of this ordinaunce, to presume to shewe him selfe in the Court, or in any other place within this Realme, in any payre of hosen passing the syse aboue sayd: that is to say, conteyning in the nether stockes and vpper stockes, more then one yarde and a halfe, or about one yarde and three quarters at the most, of the brodest karsey, or with any other stuffe beyonde that proportion, or with me lynynges then one, and that playne and iust to the legges, as is aboue sayd, neyther with any Shurtes hauyng double ruffes, Ruffes of Shurtes. eyther at the coller or sleues, whiche ruffes shall not be worne otherwyse, their single, and the singlenes to be vsed in a due and meane sort, as was orderly, and comely vsed before the comming in of the outragious double ruffes, whiche nowe of late are crept in. Or beyng vnder the degree of a knight, with any gylted spurres, or any damaskyng or gylt sworde, rapyer, or dagger, vppon payne of forfayture of the same, Gilt spurres swordes and of imprisonment and fine at the Quenes highnes pleasure for euerye suche offence, to be executed within the Court, by such as shalbe appoynted, in sort as is aboue sayd, by the Lord Chaumberlaine, Vicechaumberlayne, the Lord Stewarde, the Treasourer, and Comptroller. Execution. And in London, & within the liberties therof, to be executed by the Sergeauntes, and suche others as shalbe appoynted in fourme aforesayde by the Maior and Aldermen. In the Suburbes, Westminster, and other priuileged places, by the officers, rulers, and gouernours of them. In all other places, by the head officers and Iustices of peace.
In the two vniuersities, Vniuersities the Chauncellour, or in his absence the Vicechauncellour or Comissary, to see to the execution of the sayde Statutes, and of all the other orders: and none other Iustice or officer there to meddle, but as shalbe by them or one of them appoynted. In whiche places is thought meete to haue an vuiformitie of apparell, accordyng to euery seuerall vocation.
The heddes of Colledges and Hawles of the sayde vniuersities, to be warned by them to see the Scollers vnder their gouernement to obserue throughly the sayde statutes and orders, and to abate theyr ruffes and other vnsemely excesses, and to haue in theyr apparell regarde to the obseruation of theyr statutes, and to the decencie of vsyng of them selues therin, as heretofore hath ben vsed: wherein yf eyther the maister shalbe founde to forget his duetie, or the scoller to lacke obedience, the Quenes highnes shalbe forced to appoynt others to see vnto the due punyshement of both the sortes.
Ladyes and Gentilwomen.Ladyes and gentilwomen attendinge vpon the Quene, or resortyng to the Court, and theyr gentylwomen, to be appareled accordyng to the auncient order of the Court: wherof the orders in tyme past to be put in vre, by the gentilmen vsshers, at the appoyntment of the Lord Chaumberlaine, to thintent there may be a difference of estates knowen by theyr apparell, after the commendable custome in times past vsed in the Court. Whiche order is to be sought, renewed, and out of hande to be put in vre by the sayd Lord Chaumberlayne, or otherwyse to be deuised for a certayntie of all degrees.
Swordes, Rapyers, Daggers.And where as an vsage is crept in, contrary to former orders, of wearing of long Swordes, and Rapyers, sharpened in suche sort, as maye appeare the vsage of them can not tende to defence, whiche ought to be the very meanyng of wearyng of weapons, in times of peace: but to murther, and euident death, when the same shalbe occupyed. Her Maiesties pleasure is, that no man shall after. x. dayes next followyng this Proclamation, weare any Sword, Rapier, or any weapon in theyr steade, passynge the length of one yarde & halfe a quarter of blade, at the vttermost: neither any Dagger aboue the length of. Buckler. xii. inches in blade: neither any Buckler, with a sharpe point, or with any point aboue two ynches of length, vpon payne of forfayting the Sword or Dagger passing the sayd length, & the Buckler made otherwise then is prescribed, to whomsoeuer wil sease vpon it, and the imprysonment of his body, that shalbe found to weare any of them, & to make fine at her Maiesties wyl and pleasure. And yf any Cutler or other artificer, Cutler. shall after the day of the publication hereof, sell, or haue within his shop or house to be solde, or shal make or cause to be made, any Rapier, Sworde, Dagger, or Buckler, contrary to this order, to forfaite the same, his body to be imprysoned, & to make fine at the Quenes highnes pleasure, and to remayne in prison, tyll the sayd fine be fully satisfied, & beyng taken with the fault the seconds time, neuer to be permitted after, to vse that occupation. Which in the Court is to be executed by the officers aforesayd. In the Citie and liberties by the Maior and Court of Aldermen, and such as by them shalbe appoynted in that sort, Execution. aswel sergeauntes as others beforesayd. In Westminster, the Suburbes, and other priuileged places, by the offycers of the same. In Townes corporate, by the Maior and other head officers, and in all other places, by the Iustices of peace.
And finally her Maiestie straightly chargeth aswell the said Lord Stewarde, Treasurer, and Comptroller of the housholde, as the Lorde Chaumberlayne, vice chaumberlayne, and such as vnder them shalbe appointed and assigned, the Maior of London and all other Maiors, Shriefes, Bailiefes, Constables, and al Iustices of peace, all Principals and auncientes of the Innes of Court, and Chauncery the Chauncelour and vicechauncelour of both the vniuersities, and the hedes of Haules, and Colleges of the same, and all other her highnes officers and ministers, eche of them in theyr iurisdictions, to se these orders being set forth and confirmed by her Maiesties Proclamation, to be duely and spedyly executed in fourme aforesayde, as they wyll aunswere for the contrary at theyr perilles, and wyll auoyd her highnes displeasure and indignation.
God saue the Quene.
¶ Imprinted at London in Powles Churchyarde, by Rycharde Iugge and Iohn Cawood: Printers to the Quenes Maiestie.
Cum priuilegio Regiae Maiestatis.