CHAP. I.

WE will not dispute of the first Invention of Guns, that is, whe­ther it came from Archimedes, as the Italians do report, or from an Englishman, or from a Monk, for this knowledge matters not much to the Art, nor is it of any profitable signi­fication to the Artist; especially considering, that Authors do not really consent in this thing. Our intent is therefore not to trouble the ingenious Students with vain uncertain repeti­tions, but to composea compleat Piece of Gunnery, and there­in to discourse from the beginning to the end, all that is necessary to be known or learned (after the knowledge of common Arithmetick) by one that intends to be a perfect Pro [...]icient in the said Art. We do suppose it therefore necessary for a Ma­ster Gunner to know first the making of Molds and casting of Pieces. Therefore I shall first begin to discourse of the property and Nature of the Earth fit for casting, or making Molds; for this is of great moment, considering that many, or indeed most Earths are not for this purpose; for the Earth [...]t for the casting of Pieces of Ordnance must be such as will not be melted or fuse, although it be put into a very great fire, but must remain firm and hard: and these Earths are generally of a Red­dish, or Iron-like colour, which is well known to many Potters, especially such as make Chymical Vessels. The Earth being obtained, it must be sifted and cast up after the usual manner, as men do in the making of Morter; then let it be moistned with an Alchalated Water (especially such as is made of Niter) for that purpose, and make it like paste; then, as is usual, let it be beaten up strongly with an Iron Bar; the more 'tis beaten the better it is: in the beating add one sixt part of Horse dung, and a proportionable part of Flox or Hair, and let it again be well beaten and incor­porated, alwayes keeping a Moity of this Earth without Hair or Flox, which is for Ground-work; and these Compositions or Earth thus incorporated, you must reserve for the making your Molds for Pieces of Ordnance, according to the Rules prescribed in the next Chapter.

CHAP. II.

AS a Master Builder when he intends the Building a Ship, makes first a Mold or Moddel of the same; so the Master Gunner, or he that takes in hand the business of Casting Guns, must have a form or Model of his Piece intended made of wood, or such other matter he may think most convenient, which then being brought to the Founder with an intent to be Cast, must first be smeered all over with Palm Oyle, or instead of that, our Lard or Hogs-grease, then first cover it over with the said earth thinly, and let it dry leisurely, then lay on more, encreasing it to such a thickness, as you may judge convenient for your purpose; and it must be so made that it may be taken into several parts, so that the pattern may be taken out, and the Mold again exactly closed, and the outside strengthned with Iron plates as long as the Chace of the Piece is, and hooped together with Iron hoops to knock on and off. Then must there be made (with the same earth upon a square Bar of Iron, bound round with a Cord that the clay may stick well) a form exactly round, of the fashion of the concave of your Piece (whether you intend it a Cylender or a Chamber­board Piece) proportioned both in length and diameter, and it must be placed exact [...]ly in the middle of the concave; and when all is well joyned together, be sure it be well pollished and smoothed, that the Metal may run the better, and be the clearer from flaws, holes, or clefts.

In the beginning of your work take care that your Mold be exactly propor­tionable as to heighth and substantialness of Metal, according to the nature of the Piece you intend. That is, the Canon double-fortified must be so cast that the Dia­meter at Muzzle be but [...] of the Diameter at Britch. The lesser Cannon at Britch to be [...] [...]o big as the greater Cannon 9/16 at Trunions, and [...] at Muzzle, whereas ordinary fortified Cannons have at the Touch-hole 7/8 at the Trunions 5/8 and at the Muzzle [...], all lesser Pieces in that kind have 18/1 [...] at the Touch-hole [...] at Trunions, and [...] at Muzzle; and the ordinary fortified Culverins are fortified every way like the double fortified Cannon, and the lesser Culverin like the ordinary fortified Cannon in all respects.

Great care must be taken in the Casting of Pieces of Ordnance, that they be equal every way in proportion of Metals, that is, that the Cylender be in the very middle of the Metal, that it may be truely bored, otherwise your Piece will fail the Artist that shall use it, until the error be known.

In the next place let the Trunions be exactly placed in a Diagonal line with the Axis of the Piece; and they may be placed in their proper distance from the Muzzle and Britch, if you observe these Rules. Take the length of the bore of the Piece from Muzzle to Britch, divide that measure by seven, and multiply that sum that cometh of the Quotient by three, the Product will shew you how many inches the Trunions must stand from the lowest part of the concavity of the Piece.

And farther note, that the Trunions ought to be placed so, as [...] of the Circum­ference of the Piece, may be seen in that place where the Trunions are set.

When all additional Patterns, as Britch, &c. be made and Luted in their proper place, all things at pleasure being neatly added to the pattern, let the Mold then be fixt or placed so as is most convenient for the pouring in the Metal; so when [Page 3] the Metal is cast, the perfect impression will be made upon the superficial part of the Piece, and the Cylender will keep the bore proposed according to what you have prescribed, the length of the Piece and its Diameter of the bore may be found by the following Table in the next Chapter. For the Metals generally used for those Guns, generally called brass Guns, they are mixtures, and many times varied as experience will give leave. Some of the chiefest do approve of this mix­ture, that is, to every hundred Weight of Copper 24 pounds of Tin, and 6 pounds of Lattin. Others to 100l. of Copper, add 8 l. of Tin, and 10 l. of Lattin. Others to ever 100l. add 20l. of Bell-Metal, which is 25l. of Lead and Tin to every 100l. of of Copper. Some add Tin, Lead, Copper, and Lapis Calaminaris together; so every one follows such wayes of Composition as doth most please his own Experience. The Copper and other better Metals being once melted, the Tin and Lead is added for the better and quicker fusion; and the higher the Metal is in fusion, the more solid and compact your Metal will run and settle. The Lattin doth incorporate and cause the Piece to be of a good colour, and the Tin doth strengthen and bind the other matters together. Now a Piece of Ordnance being Cast, before it comes to Service, it must be put to tryal; for which purpose there is used for proof, according to the weight of the shot, about two thirds, or four fifths of that weight in Powder, and for smaller Pieces more.

CHAP. III.

THe greatest in use is the Cannon Royal, which is in weight of Metal about 8000l. in length about 12 foot, carries a Shot of 7 [...] inch. Diameter, and its weight is 58l. of Iron, its bore is 8 inches, requireth for her charge in Powder, 32l. 8z.

Demi-Cannon of the greater size, called by some Cannon of Seven, whose weight of Metal is 7000l. in length about 12 foot, carrying a Shot of 6 [...] inch. Diameter, and its weight of Iron is 42l. 10z. the Diameter at bore is 7 inches, requireth for her charge in Powder 20l.

Demi-Cannon great size, it's weight of Metal is 6000l. in length about 12 foot, carrying a Shot of 61/4 inch. Diameter, and its weight in Iron is 34l. the Diameter at bore is 6 [...] inch▪ requireth for her charge of Cannon Powder 18l.

Demi-Cannon ordinary, its weight of Metal is 5600l. in length 11 foot, carrying a Shot of 6 [...] inch. Diameter, its weight in Iron is 32l. the Diameter at bore is 6 [...] inch. requireth for her charge in Powder 171/2 pounds.

The lowest Demi-Cannon, whose weight of Metal is 5400l. being in length some­time 10 and sometimes 12 foot, it carries a Shot of 6 inches, the weight of that Shot in Iron is 30l. the Diameter of the bore is 61/4 inch. it requireth for charge in Powder 14l.

Culverin of the largest size, weighs about 4800l. being in length 10 or 12▪ foot, it carries a Shot of 5 [...] inch. Diameter, the weight of that Shot in Iron is 20l. the Dia­meter of the bore is 6 [...] inch, it requireth for charge in Powder 12l. 8z.

Ordinary whole Culverin weighs about 4500 l. being in length about 12 foot, it carries a Shot of 5 inches Diameter, the weight of that Shot of Iron is about 17 l. Diameter at bore is 51/4 inch. it requireth for charge in Powder 11 l. 6 z.

Culverin of the least size, weighs about 4000 l. being in length about 12 foot, it carries a Shot of 4 [...] inch. Diameter, the weight of that Shot of Iron is 15 l. Diameter, at bore is 5 inch. charge of Powder is 10 l.

Demi-Culverin of the greatest size weighs about 3000 l. being in length 10 or 12 foot, carries a Shot of 4 [...] inch. Diameter, the weight of that Shot of Iron is 12 l. 11 z. Diameter of the bore 4 [...] inch. charge of Powder is 8 l. 12 z.

Demi-Culverin ordinary, weighs about 2700 l. being in length 10 or 12 foot, carries a Shot of 41/4 inch. Diameter, weight of that Shot of Iron is 10 l. 12 z. Diameter of the bore 41/2 inch. charge of Powder is 7 l. 4 z.

Demi-Culverin lower than ordinary, weighs about 2000 l. being in length 9 or 10 foot, carries a Shot of 4 inches Diameter, weight of that Shot 9 l. Diameter of the bore 4 [...] inch. charge of Powder is 6 l. 4 z.

Saker of the oldest sort, of 1800 l. weight, being in length 9 or 10 foot, carries a Shot of 33/4 inch. weight of that Shot 7 l. 5 z. Diameter at the bore 4 inches, charge of Powder 5 l.

Saker ordinary, of 1500 l. weight, in length about 9 foot, carries a Shot of 3 [...] inch. Diameter, weight of that Shot 6 l. 0 z. Diameter at the bore 33/4 inches, charge of Powder 4 l.

Saker of the lowest size, of 1400 l. weight, in length about 8 foot, carries a Shot of 31/4 inch. weight of that Shot 4 l. 12 z. Diameter at the bore 3 inches and a half, charge of Powder 3 l. 6 z.

Minion of the largest size, of 800 or 1000 l. length 8 foot, height of the Shot 3 inches, weight of the Shot 3 l. 2 z. height of the bore 3 inches, and one quarter, the charge of Powder, if of 800 l. two pounds and a [...]alf, if of 1000 l. three pounds and a quarter.

The ordinary Minion of 750 l. in length 7 foot, height of the Shot 3 [...] inch. weight of the Shot 3 l. 4 z. height of the bore 3 inches, charge of Powder 2 [...] pounds.

Faucons of 750 l. length 7 foot, height of the Shot 21/2 inch. weight 21/2 pounds, height of the bore 23/4 inch. charge in Powder 21/2 pounds.

Fauconet of 400 l. in length 6 foot, height of the Shot 2 [...] inch. weight 1 l. 5 z. height of the bore 21/4 inch. charge 1 l. 4 z. of Powder.

Rabnet of 300 l. length 5 foot, height of the Shot 1 [...] inch. weight 8 ounces of Iron, height of the bore 11/2 inch. charge of Powder 12 o [...]nces.

Base of 200 l. length 4 foot, height of Shot 11/2 inch, weight 5 ounces, height of the bore 1 [...] inch. charge of Powder 8 ounces.

There are other Pieces in use in our Nation, which are called Bastard Pieces; of which you shall have a particular account in its proper place.

CHAP. IV.

IT is necessary for him that intends to be a Gunner to understand, after the know­ledg of the Piece in general, to know and learn every part and member of a Piece of Ordnance; for well understanding the same take these Instructions following.

All the outside of the Piece round about is called the superficial part of the same, or Surface of the Piece; the Inner part is called the concave Cylinder, and Soul of the Piece.

The full length is called the Chase of the Piece; so much of the Cylinder or con­cave of the Piece as contains the powder and Shot is called the Chamber or charged Cylinder, the remaining part to the small end of the Gun is called the vacant Cylin­der.

The Spindle standing out, or Ears by which the Piece must hang in the Carriage, is called the Trunions; the space between the Trunions, the gravity of the Center.

The Pumel or Button at her Coyl or Britch-end is called the Casacabel or her Deck, the little hole the Touch-hole, all the metal behind the touch-hole the Breach or Coyl, the greatest ring at her touch-hole the Base Ring, the next ring or circle the reinforced Ring, the next the Trunion Rings, the next before the Trunions is called the Cornish Ring, the foremost next the Muzzle is called the Muzzle Ring, Lastly, all the rings, Circles, Eminencies, at her Muzzle, and so those behind the base Ring, are Frizes.

Let the Piece with its several names be placed by this Chapter. Fig. 1.

CHAP. V.

THe Gunners upon Land-Service, for the conveniency of mounting a piece of Ord­nance, that is by any means whatsoever dismounted, have for their principal Services, a Screw▪ and a Ghynne, and their appurtenances (which you will find in their proper place) by whose help they are able to mount a Piece, and place him in his Carriage, whereby he may be able to perform the work intended. Which to per­form artifi [...]ially, observe these Rules.

Before you endeavour to mount your Piece, above all things have a great and di­ligent care that the Ghynne be very firmly set, so that it may not slip any way; bu [...] so placed, that the Pully or Truckle coming down from the head, fall just between the Trunions, or gravity of the Piece, whereof to be assured you may let [...]all down from the head of the Ghynne a Plummet with a Line▪ or for want of a Plummet any stone made fa [...] to a Line, and so moving the Ghynne [...]til the said Plummet [...]all ju [...] upon the Center of Gravity, which is between the Ears of the Piece, that the met [...] may fa [...]l near equal, or that an easie hand may poize i [...]; and this care must be the more, if the Ground whereon the Ghynne stands be sandy or loose Ground, or [...] Earth be b [...]ggy soft, so that the feet may [...]il or sink in or give way▪ according [...] [Page 6] the greatness of the weight. For sometimes it may be necessary to put planks or some solid thing under the Ghynne and Pins to stay them; but this as necessity shall require.

Now the Ghynne firmly placed and setled, the Gunner must get up by the Ladder, or some Steps, to the head or top of it, having the Rope in his hand, shall put it through the uppermost truckle of the head, and let it fall down to another man again, that he may catch it, that he may put it through one side of the Piece to fas [...]en it into the Ears of the Piece, and so having put it through them he may draw it up, until he can give it him that is above, and then put it through the other hole of the Truckle, and give it to him that is under him, who must reach it again to him that is above, and so fasten it to the head of the Ghynne, giving it some turns until it come under the uppermost Truckle.

This done, he must fasten it with great diligence to the lower Truckle, by putting the Ears as through the Ring which is under the said Truckle; after this begin to Hoyse your Peice, and in the Hoysing put a spar or some such thing into the mouth of the Peice, so that thereby it may be governed, and may not sway from one side to the other, which would be dangerous; for if it should strike against the Rouler or any one of the feet of the Gynne, it may break all, and so spoil both the work and the men tending upon it. Therefore I say, be sure that those who stand by the Spar be careful in guiding the Piece and keeping it steddy and right, until the weight of the Piece is well setled, a diligent Eye being had all this while, that nei­ther the feet of the Gynne, nor Rope give way; and be sure every part of the Rope draw equal, and that there be no Knicks, or that they be not tangled one amongst another; and for that purpose, when they begin to hoyse the Piece, blows must be given upon the Tackling until it be set tort, and all bear equal.

But if you should perceive that the Ghynne or any part give way, presently let your Piece sink, and underlay and settle well the feet of the Ghynne, and that as gently as may be, to the end the Cross beam or Rouler may not be disjoyned or broken.

Then wind it up carefully and very gently by the help of two men onely, and in such a manner, as when one of the Leavers is brought down, it must be held there fast until the other has got purchase, and then must this other also be brought down; this must be reiterated so often until it be so high that the Carriage may be placed under it, so that the Trunions may fall into the Sockets, or holes of the Carriage, and then Guide the Piece by the Spar, so that it fa [...]l easily in, and so rest it self in the Carriage, and then let it be well clasped over, and then locked in and fastned with Forelocks, and so you may draw away your Piece where you please. On board Ships this Ghynne is not of use, it being the Boatswains business to fix a Tackle that may be able to hoist up any Piece into its Carriage, the Slings one part must come about the Casacabel, and the other part about a Billet, so made that it may fit in at the Muzzle, and by strength of hands, or by help of a Windless, or Capstain, it may be hoysed up so that the Carriage may be brought under; so that the Gun being Loared, its Trunions may fall in to the holes of the Carriage, which then clasp over with its Iron Clasps; let them be Forelocked, and then with Hand-Tackles be brought where you please.

See the Figure of the Gynne, and the Field, and Ship-Pieces mounted in the Figure 11.

CHAP. VI.

SEeing we have discovered the way of Casting a Piece, and Mounting it in its Car­riage, it follows in the next place that in this Chapter we treat of, and shew the manner of drawing them from place to place, for Service; where care must be taken what the way is that you are to pass, for if the way be foul, moorish, and dirty, there is then required as many more Horses as in good wayes. That is,

For a whole Cannon of 8000 l. you may use 15 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Demi-Cannon of about 6000 l. you may use 11 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Piece of 4000 l. weight, you may use 8 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Field Piece of about 3000 l. use 6 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Saker of 1800 l. weight, you may use 4 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Piece of 1500 l. weight, you may use 3 couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar.

For a Faucon, two couple of Horses, besides the Tyllar. For a small Drake of about 250 l. one Horse will serve: and by the same Rule you may find how many Horses will draw any weight whatsoever.

Many times when Horses are wanting, men are made use of: Upon such occasions, you must divide your men into three drawing files, according to the greatness of the Piece; now to the end the Ranks may spread, and every man may draw equally alike, fasten to the end of the Carriage a Cross beam or bar, to which you must fasten the drawing Ropes, equally at such distance, that one may not impead the other, and let there be besure one to steer the Piece when you come to any winding or turn­ing. If the drawing Ropes be long, 'tis necessary to cross it with Ropes, or some light peeces of wood like a Ladder, with two or more cross peeces; let them be made fast for the better and more steady drawing, and to every there must be a Neck­line fastned to the Ropes, and so to cast over every mans Sholders, in manner as is used to draw our Western Barges: And you must know your proportion of men fit to draw any Piece of Ordnance, and that must be regulated according to the good­ness or badness of the way, and so more or less men, allowing every man to draw about 50, 60, or 80 pounds; for 'tis supposed a man may draw in ordinary way 50 or 60 pounds but in very good way more than 80 pounds, however 'tis good to have men enough. Let the Spunge, Ladle, &c. be made fast along the Piece to the Ring and Britch end. Sometimes by reason of the unevenness, steepness, or other defects of the way, it sometimes happens, that you may be forc'd to dis­mount your Piece, and remount it again; there 'tis necessary every Gunner have with him a Ghynne, a Wynche, and all appurtenances necessary thereunto. As to the Sea Gunner on board Ship, their occasions require no more than the Wynch; and their Piece being mounted according to the directions given in the former Chap­ter, then with one or two Tackles he bring the Piece to the place desired, where it ought to be well fastned in its place; for which purpose there is thereunto required Tack [...]es and Britchins; and in case of foul weather, or that any of the Gee [...] or Tackling be suspected, or by my much tumbling every thing hanging upon the Nail, for fear any Bolts should give way or draw, it i [...] usual to nail down to the [Page 8] Deck with Spikes, one Coyne behind each Truck, or at least the after Trucks, which to great Pieces are commonly dead Trucks; so that each Piece may have little or no play.

But in case any thing should give way in foul weather, then with all speed dismount the Piece as soon as possible you can, for fear of further mischief; for which purpose put in his way as he runs from side to side, Rugs, Pillows, Beds, &c, and stand ready with Crows and Handspikes, and with Tackles, to hitch or ketch him close and fast to any Ring by the Ship side, or such other place as best presents. As for the length of the Tackles useful, it is usually known thus; see how long the Piece is, and make the Tackles four times as long, and let the Britchin be twice the length of the Piece, and something more. The manner of drawing of Pieces by Man and Horse, you will see in the third Figure.

CHAP. VII.

IT remains necessary for this Chapter to treat, or shew the way to know, whether a Piece be serviceable or no, which is usually done in the first proof by Powder, which we intend not to Write of here, having mentioned it before, and more will be said, when we have shewed the composition of Powder. That knowledge of a Piece we here intend, is to examine a Piece, bought, or to be taken into Service, whether good or serviceable, or out of many Pieces to make choice of the best, or such as are freed from holes, flaws, cracks, honycombs, &c. And first to know if a Piece be free from crack, or have holes through, take a long stick, longer than the Piece, made of a Hoop-stick or otherwise, slit it at one end, so that you may put a short peece of Candle in it, then light the Candle, and put it into the Piece, and so putting it along easily, whilst another laying his Eye close to the Piece, do go along equally with the Candle, until the whole Piece be viewed, and so by help of the Light within side, the Eye without side will perceive whether there be any Flaws, Cracks, &c.

This may be done by the reflection of the Sun beams in at the Muzzle of a Piece, by help of a Looking-glass, or pollished Steel; but many times a Piece may be Flawed or Hony-combed, and cannot be discerned through the Piece, and then the best way to find them out is thus; make the usual search with two or three Springs, or in case you have them not, bend the Iron point of a Half Pike, then put it into the Piece up to the Britch end or bottom of the Cylinder, turning it round carefully and gradually, as you pluck it out, and if there be any Honey-combs, Cracks or Flawes, the end or bended point of the Half Pike wil [...] stick or catch at them.

To know whether the Piece be Chamber-bor'd, take a priming Iron that is small, or a piece of Wire, bend it a little at the end, but so that it may go down at the Touch-hole, and put it down so far as it will go; Then at the Touch-hole close by the Metal of the Piece, make a mark upon the Wire; then gently pluck it up upon one side of the Touch-hole, until the bended point stop upon the Metal or upper side of the Chamber; and then make another mark upon the Wyer, just by the Touch­hole; [Page 9] then draw out the Wyer, and the distance between these two marks, is the height of the Chamber or bore of the Piece at Britch: take the height of the bore at Muzzle, and if this height at Muzzle agree with that taken at the Britch of the Piece, then is the Piece full bored; but if they differ, so much as the difference is, sheweth the tapering of the Piece, and according to this must your former be made for your Cartredges. There is another way to know whether a Piece be Chamber­bor'd, or Tapering by the disparting of a Piece; which way we shall shew in its proper place, where we treat of disparting a Piece of Ordnance.

Now although we have mentioned in the former Chapters the most usual Pieces of Ordnance; yet, as I have said, there are other Pieces which are longer, or shorter, which are used, and are generally called by the name of Bastard Pieces, and they are distinguished from the common Legitimate Pieces thus; The Legitimate Pieces have their due length of Chance, and are proportioned according to the true height of their bore. Bastard Pieces are shorter Chases, such as the proportion of their bore doth require, and are therefore called Cuts of the same nature of the Piece they agree with in the bore; as those of Demi-Culverin bore, are called Demi-Culverin Cuts, &c. There are also Pieces called Extraordinary, which are such whose Chaces are longer than is usually for that bore.

Now we have well and duely understood how, not only to make, but also to exa­mine and prove a Piece of Ordnance, in the next place shall follow their use, set down in due order: Wherein first 'tis necessary for us to treat of the nature of Gun­powder, and its various Compositions, with the Materials necessary thereunto, and afterward shew its use.

CHAP. VIII.

IT is believed by many in these latter times, that the Salt-Peter now in use, is not the Niter of the Ancients, but a new Invention used or found out for the Com­position of Powder; And that theirs was only a Niter generated by nature, or that Salt that is coagulated of it self, without any humane Artifice, in the Caverns of the Earth, from whence they took it which nevertheless they divide into four different Species, to wit, Armenian, Affrican, Roman, and Egyptian; and this Egyptian holds its name by a certain Region in Egypt, in which is found great abundance. Serapian delivers to us, that the places from whence they drew their Niter were all one and the same, like them where common Salt is formed, in which the water running doth congeal, and condenseth like a vulgar Stone, from hence came it to be called stonified Salt, or Sal-Peter. The same Author doth a [...]irm, that Niter was found of divers colours, viz. White, Reddish, Livid, or Lead-like, and all other colours it was able to take; he saith likewise that it was found in different forms; for some was found full of holes or caverns like a Spunge; others on the contrary were firm, close, sollid, shining, and Diaphanous as Glass, which being let fall easily will split in thin leaves, and is fryable in beating; and from its various appearances is judged its manifold vertues, in one more powerful than another, which is known by its operation.

From hence we see that which is to be found from the testimony of the best received Authors about the Mineral Niter, and in none is any mention made of Artificial Salt-Peter, or such as we at present make use of generally, which is called properly Salt-Peter, Sal Nitre, or Halinitre; yet is there very little difference between the Natural that useth to be brought to us, and the Artificial; for if we compare the vertues and operations of the one, we shall find them in our uses no way d [...]ffering, as Scaliger testifies, saying that the ancient Niter is not much different from ours, particularly if we consider its tenuity and sub [...]il part.

There is of the ancient Niter found upon the superficies of old Walls, exposed to the humidity; but particularly in Cellars and deep Caves, and in covered Vaults; it resembles perfectly a certain Brine, or white Gelly, or fine Meal, or in more proper speaking, fine Sugar, and is many times white as Snow; and this thus had, the vertues are to be commended, which I my self have taken the pains to collect, in the imitation of many others which I have often seen; which if now it be desired to prepare this Salt according to the method of our Art; It will be congealed into small little long Christals like Isicles, and it will be like that of the Ancients. But as 'tis impossible to find so great a quantity, as the continual use doth consume, and necessity doth excite to this day for the supply of all Wars, which have been great, and in few years consumed many great and vast places of the Universe: We are therefore constrained to this new subject, and are forced even to study and invent in these latter ages a new way to supply the want of the former, which being made with much labour and industry from the bowels of the Earth, and then purified and washed divers times to separate it from its more gross and Terrestrial parts, and taken from its first crudity, that its may shew its likeness of its Mother, it is in the end perfectly purified and brought to such a height, that it differs nothing to he of the same form and vertue of the ancient Salt-Peter.

Wherefore if I may be admitted to speak my thoughts upon it, I shall say openly and plainly, leaving none in doubt, the Ancients did indeed find natural growing Niter, which came out of it self at the tops of Rocks, filling the clefts and holes, and there condensing into small Icicles, it hardnes and petrefies. This Niter is natural; but since Art is the Imitator of Nature, as 'tis allowed by all, then you may not think it strange, if we can by a little of her aid, and by force of industry, attain to the perfection of her productions; nay, (if I may be bold to say it) such as shall surpass by far, the more perfect of her works. Do we not daily see an infinite of very principal Works brought to light, after a long and painful travel, which is not per­mitted nature to imitate, although she did imploy at the best all her secret and full strength to come to perfection. It may from hence ▪herefore be concluded that our Salt made by the Art of Fire, is such as is every way agreeing with that of the Ancients, not any way differing one from the other; especially as to those uses we intend here. For if according to our method given in the next Chapter, I dare affirm, in all our uses it will truely imitate the natural, but the more, if it be purified and purged many times: So that at last it will come to be more excellent than the An­cient and natural Salt-Peter; which is plainly seen in the ordinary way of purifying Common Salt or Sugar, which by Art is so purged, that it comes to be far purer and whiter than 'twas before, in its first natural dress. And this we do suppose to be a sufficient argument, or reason, for us to judge that our Artificial Salt-Peter is not only as good, but far more excellent than the natural: Which being thus allowed, we will add only a few words of the properties of Niter, and so pass to its Artificial preparation. And first of the spetting quality and noise it makes in the fire, which Scaliger would have to be caused by its terrestrity that it holds in it self, which we cannot allow of, but rather judge otherwise; for if the Earthy part were the subject that made it make such noise, then the Earth it self might be adjudged to make a far greater noise, seeing it is also mixed with this Element, and yet we find it cracks not at all, being put in the fire; therefore by consequence this reason is void. Well then, is it of its rarity, which Aristotle calls [...] and [...], This cannot pass for a truth, since daily experience doth let us see that the Mushrooms, [Page 11] or Toad-stools, and many other things which are of a most rare thin nature, yet make no noise when put upon burning coals. Neither is the hardness that is joyned to these more subtil parts, the cause of the cracking; For we see that the Pumice-stone will not spet nor crack, nor make any noise in the fire, although it be of a substance sufficiently spungy and hard. There must therefore be another thing that must be the cause of this spetting, and all the noise that is made by Nitre, when it is embraced by the fire. The Divine Praeceptor, in the 11 Section of his Questions saith, that the Salt cracks in the fire, because it contains in it much moisture, which being attenuated by the fire, and rarified in a high degree, con­verts all into Spirits, and an Airy nature; For in it there is contained more of a Spirit, than watery matter, which being brought to the fire, the two fiery Spi­rits mutually attract each other, and joyning together, do become Master of the lesser part the Water; for the fire of the Niter being fortified and put into action by the common fire, the Water is constrained from its bonds, and can stay no longer there, but must of a suddain depart, and in its way, by the violency of its departure, overthroweth all such obstacles as come in its way: And in this action the external air being strongly and violently agitated, by their refraction, it breaks with impetuosity or great violence, and from thence by consequence follows that hideous and fearful noise which commonly and ordinarily happens, in the com­bustion of Salt-Peter, and other Compositions mixed with it, whereof Salt-Peter is the greatest part.

CHAP. IX.

THe Earth and matter of Salt-Peter is found commonly in great abundance, in obscure shadowed places, where no Rain nor any fresh water doth penitrate, nor likewise where the Sun by his rayes can communicate his heat; it is likewise drawn from Horse dung under Stables, and from covered places where great and small Cattle are shut up; likewise in such places as men use to piss in, or Jaqueses, or the like places; or in places where has been made great Fights, or where has been laid up together many dead Bodies, and earth thrown upon them: For from thence in few years may much Salt-Peter be drawn. I shall declare three several wayes whereby to ground your judgment with more certaint [...], concerning the goodness of the place from whence one would draw the Salt-Peter, which is most necessary to be known by all Salt-Peter men, or such as intend to mannage these Affairs.

The first is, that such Earth as you suspect to hold Salt-Peter, be put upon the Tongue, and if it prick a little sharply, it is a most certain sign you will not loose your labour in taking it to task; but on the contrary if it be not biting, or a little corrosive, it will not well answer your money and labour in preparing of it.

The second way to know a good Nitrous Earth is this: make a hole in the Earth with a sharp pointed thing, either of Wood or Iron▪ and in it put a peece of Iron red hot; after having stopt the hole, let it stand until it be quite cold, then draw it out, and if you find a little after about this Iron some Citrine marks, inclining a little after to a whiteness, you need not doubt that earth; but further assure your self 'tis very good to put to work.

The third way is, throw a little of that Earth upon burning Coals, and if you perceive it make any noise, and that it spets in the fire, or that clear and shining sparks come from it, you may from thence judge that that Earth holds a forcible matter of that nature.

After you have found a proper Earth to draw Salt-Peter from, and that by some of these proofs you have testimony of its goodness and worth, let be taken of it a great quantity, or as much as you please; let it be carried to a place appointed for this purpose, then prepare to burn a good quantity of Wood, either of Oak, Ash, Elm, Maple, or other sorts of hard Wood, that you may have Ashes; then take two parts of these Ashes, one part of quick Lime, mix them well, and put this mixture by it self; for such uses as I shall shew you anon.

Take then Vessels of Wood, or Pipes, or Hogsheads cut in two parts, for they must be able to hold a good quantity of Water, make a hole at the bottom about one or two fingers breadth, put into the hole a small wicker thing, or you may whelm over it an Earthen Dish, after put Rushes all over the bottom (not excepting the hole) or in its place clean straw; this Vessel being thus fitted, dispose of it in this manner; Set it so, that under may stand a lesser Vessel of Wood to receive the Li­quor that shall distil down from the upper Vessel; after put into the upper Vessel about the height of a hand of this Salt-Peter Earth, which has been before for some time dryed in the Air; upon this Earth put the height of three or four fingers of the mixture made of Ashes and quick Lime, and then again of the Salt-Peter Earth, after of the Ashes about the same height as before; and continue this fashion, putting Earth upon Ashes, and Ashes upon Earth, until the Vessel be full within a hands breadth at the top, to hold the Water that is put in; this done put upon it fresh Water as much as shall be necessary, viz. so much as must surmount the Earth two or three fingers breadth, and look that it pass through all the Earth, and run drop by drop through the hole at bottom of the Vessel into the Tub standing under, and you shall have a Nitrous Lixivium, according to the quantity of Water as you poured into the Vessel; which if you judge is too little, you must reiterate the infusion, and the second time also the water passing through the Earth will carry with it a sub­stance; And so the third time.

This done, put all the Lixivium into a [...]ettle of a sufficient bigness, and let it be boyled upon the fire very easily, and moderately at first; after increase the fire to the consumption of the Liquor, or a little more, keeping continually skimming it all the time it boyls. And when 'tis thus consumed, pour it into wooden Vessels that are broad, and cover them over with Cloaths, and let them stand until the pure part Christalize into white Salt, and the feculent or more terrestial part settle to the bottom. In the mean time continue pouring in of the Lixivium again into the Kettle, boyling and skimming it as before; and this do until all your Lixivium be boyled up and poured into wooden Vessels to Christalize.

Then from the wooden Vessels, inclining them gently, pour all the Lixivium (leav­ing the settling at bottom by it self) into your Copper as before, and boyl it up again with a good fire until half be consumed, or until it begin to thicken, or until by putting a little upon a stone or peece of board, it do immediately congeal.

Then take it from the fire, and when 'tis a little cooled, pour it as before into wooden Vessels or Boles, and put into each about a hand in height; then cover each Vessel with course cloaths, put it into a cool place, and two or three dayes after you will find your Salt-Peter congealed and thrust together in small Christals, like transparent Ice, sticking to the sides of the Vessel, and likewise upon some sticks for that purpose, provided the rinds being taken off and placed in the wooden Vessels be­fore the pouring in of the Liquor; get diligently together the Peter, as well that which sticks to the sides of the Vessel, as that to the sticks, in a Vessel of wood proper to receive it, and cover it, and keep it dry. The remaining water you must boyl up as before, not forgetting to separate it from its residence.

Whilst 'tis boyling, it happens sometimes that the Liquor may rise and boyl over the Cauldron; to prevent that danger, have in readiness other Lixivium, made [Page 13] of three parts of Ashes, and one part of quick Lyme, as we spoke before, in which is dissolved Roch Allum, allowing to every hundred weight of Lixivium, four pounds of Allum; and when it begins to rise, pour in a little of this from time to time; And by this means you will see that the water that was hastning to come over, will fall down; and that the common Salt and more terrestrial part will settle to the bottom.

The Earth remaining in the Wooden Tubs from whence the salt was drawn, must be put in some cover'd place made for that purpose, where neither Sun, Rain, nor any other water may come; and there it must be spread all abroad about a foot high: Then you must have in readiness Horse dung or the Excrements of all sorts of Beasts, great and small, and put off this upon the other, about the height of three or four foot; then take all that was skum'd from the Lixivium in boyling, and the water that is left and will not shoot, and the bottoms that are left in the wooden Vessel, where the Salt-Peter did shoot, and throw them away, as hurtful and useless, upon the Dung­hil; throw likewise every day, or as often as you can, the Urine of men, and let it lye two years, and you shall have your Earth filled with Salt-Peter as before, with a greater aboundance: You may likewise throw upon your Dunghill, the Horns, Claws, and Hoofs of Beast, and then from this Earth it will be very easie to draw good Salt-Peter by the method we have prescribed.

CHAP. X.

TAke as much Salt-Peter as you please, and being put in a Copper, pour upon it so much fair water as will dissolve it, that is about eight of Water, and three of Salt; and pour upon the same of the former Lixivium, prepared of Ashes, Quick-lyme, and Roch Allum; boyl it upon the fire until all the Salt-Peter be dis­solved; that being done, have in readiness a Vessel of Wood sufficiently big, and so disposed, that another may stand under the same: which must, before it be so set, be peirced in the middle, and the hole covered over with an Earthen Dish: Let the uppermost Tub be filled five or six inches with fine clean sand; then let the Tub be covered over with a course cloath, and pour through the same into your Sand-Tub your dissolved Salt-Peter, and so it will distil by little and little into the Vessel which stands under; and so passing through the Sand, it will be discharged of all its superfluities, and will leave the most terrestial part, and such as is useless, in the Sand, which water again put into the Cauldron, and boyl it up as formerly, until it may be fit to congeal, and in the end pour it into wooden long flat Vessels as before, and in two or three dayes 'twill be shot into Christals as formerly; which if you would have purer, you must reiterate this work once more, or you may put upon this Peter, Lyme-water, filter it and boyl it up according to Art, and it will be pure.

Salt-Peter may be purified thus; put your Salt-Peter in a Vessel of Copper, Iron, or Vernish't Earth (I like a Crucible best) which being put to a small fire, augment it gradually until all the Salt be melted and boyl'd; then take common Sulphur finely pulverised, and throw it upon the liquified Salt-Peter, which will quickly take fire and burn, and by the same means consume all the gross and viscous humours, with the terrestrial Salt remaining useless amongst the Salt-Peter, before the rectification; besides you may reiterate this work by putting on fresh Sulphur many times, until such time all the strange humours be quite consumed; in the end, the Salt-Peter being [Page 14] well melted and well purified, pour it upon well polished Marble or Plates of Iron, or Copper, or glazed Earth, and let it cool, and you will have a Salt-Peter con­gealed, almost resembling in colour and hardness the true Alabaster.

CHAP. XI.

SAlt-Peter well purified, must be put in a Kettle, upon a furnace over a fire, then moderately increase the fire with Bellows to such a degree of heat, until it begin to smoak and evaporate, until the Salt begin to lose its humidity, and obtain a whiteness, and so keep continually stirring it with a wooden or Iron Ladle, for fear it should return into its pristine form, and hereby will be taken away all its fatty greasiness that may be commixt. This being done, pour so much water into the Kettle as will cover the Salt-Peter, and when it shall be dissolved, and it has obtained the consistence of a thick Liquor; then with a wooden stick or Ladle keep continually stirring it without any intermission, until all its humidity be evaporated, and all be reduced into most dry white Meal.

CHAP. XII.

GAther together a good quantity of this Flower, which you may find upon the Surface of Old Walls, which are in moist places under the Earth; you may also make provision with a certain Salt which sticks to Lyme, or upon ruinated Walls; which Peter, one Sardi a Roman took notice of, was alwayes well practised at Bruxells in Brabant, as he confesseth in his fifth Book of Artillery, Chap. 49. First, see how much Salt-Peter matter you have; then take one fourth part so much of quick Lyme, pour upon it warm water, boyl it well, and clarifie it according to custom, then put your Salt-Peter matter into a Tub with a tap in it, and a little Earthen Dish before the hole of the tap within, pour into this Tub the Lye, and stir it well with a stick until all the Salt Peter be dissolved in the Water; then let it distil leisurely into a Vessel that stands under the tap; and at last being all dissolved and run out, put this water into a Kettle, and boyl it over the fire, until so much be con­sumed, that the remainder being dropped upon a Tyle-stone or Board, do congeal, and be of hardness, but not too hard; for if it be very hard, the water is burnt; but if too soft, not enough. When 'tis well boyled and scummed, take it from the fire, and proceed with it as in the tenth and eleventh Chapters.

CHAP. XIII.

PUt upon a Wooden Table, or any clean and smooth Board, a little Salt-Peter; then give fire to it with a live coal, and observe these Rules following, viz.

If it make the same noise in burning as the common Salt doth when it is thrown upon live coals, it is a sign it holds yet much common Salt.

If it hold a thick and fat scum, it is a sign 'tis fatty and viscous.

If after the Salt be consumed, there resteth yet crass and filthy matter upon the board, it is an infallible sign that the Salt contains yet a quantity of earthy matter, and so much the more, if you see much dregs after the combustion of the Salt-Peter is past; and therefore the less powerful and active.

But by contraries, if it render a cleer long flame divided into many streams, and that the superficies of the board remain neat without any filth; or that it be consumed so that nothing is left, but a white clean ash, without making much noise, or great trembling, you may then conclude that the Salt-Peter is good, and well cleansed, and in its perfect preparation.

CHAP. XIV.

TAke Two pound of Quick-Lyme, Two pound of common Salt, One pound of Verdigrease, One pound of Roman Vitriol, One pound of Sal-Armoniack, beat them all together; after put them into an Iron Vessel, and pour upon them a good quantity of Vinegar, or in default of them, good clear water; and make a Lixivium, which you shall let rarifie and clarifie of it self, standing the space of three dayes; after put your Salt-Peter in a Kettle, and pour upon the same as much of this Lixi­vium as will well cover the Salt-Peter; put it upon a fire sufficiently moderate at first, increasing it until it boyl to the consumption of half; take it then away from the fire, and pour it by gentle inclination into a wooden Vessel, and throw away all the dregs and Salt which remaineth in the bottom of the Kettle: That done, let the Salt-Peter water cool, and continue your preparation as we have given before, where we treated of refining Salt-Peter.

CHAP. XV.

WE experience often, and without contradiction, that not only Salt-Peter is filled with terrestrial qualities, but Brimstone also, which is not only of a fat­ty & certain oleganious humour, but likewise a noysome quality which is in the com­pound, common to one and the other of its matters; from hence (if we desire to be curious in our work) we judge it may be necessary to purifie Sulphur, and to procure to it by power of clarification, a nature most sublime, subtile, fiery and volatile. The order and method that ought to be used in this, is thus; in Vessels of Iron or Copper, melt your Sulphur with a very gentle fire over Coals, well lighted, and not flaming; and when it is melted with a Ladle, skim neatly off all that riseth on the top and swimmeth upon the Sulphur; then not long after, let it be taken from the fire, and strained through a double Linnen Cloath into another Vessel, pouring it through at leisure; thus all the Oylie matter and crassy substance remains in the Cloath; but under in the Vessel will be a pure Sulphur, such as we have before spoken of.

To know the goodness of Sulphur you must do thus: Press it between two Iron plates, that are hot, and if in the running it appear yellow, without any bad odour, and that which remains be of a reddish colour, one may believe 'tis natural and excellent; so likewise 'tis a good sign, if when 'tis set on fire, it do freely burn all away, leaving little or no resident matter. For if Sulphur be pure and good, we do find that there is such a sympathy between it and fire, that the fire is desirous of the Sulphur for its nutriment, and that reciprocally the Sulphur is pleased like­wise to be thus devoured and consumed by the Element of fire; so that if some fragment of it be put about some pieces of Wood, if this shall feel the fire at some distance, it seems as if it did attract it to it self, and doth sometimes unawares at a distance catch or take fire, if great care be not taken.

There is a certain kind of Sulphur which will not burn so freely as other Sulphur, nor send forth any ill scent, but being put upon the fire, melts no otherwise than common Wax; and this Sulphur is found abundantly near Mount Aetna, as Carniola of Libavius reports, in his first Book of the Apocap. Hermel. but this Sul­phur is commonly red, as also is that which is found in the Heil des Heim (as Agricola mentions in his first Book, Chap. 22.) And upon the testimony of Iohn Iohn­son, Adm. Nat. Clas. 4. Chap. 13. Sulphur is found likewise of divers other colours, as pale, Yellow, Green, as is many times to be seen and found sticking about Stones and Rocks: So, that a man may, without any great difficulty, take it from thence, and make it into a Mass.

That which is clear, perfectly yellow, not very hard, nor too much shining, is the very best. Yet there is another Sulphur which looks greenish, and hath never past the fire; and this is called Sulphur Vivum, and by some Virgin Sulphur, by reason Women and Maids had a custom to compose with it a certain fucus or Paint, with which they used to adorn their faces.

CHAP. XVI.

IN the Month of May or Iune, when all sorts of Trees are easie to peel, by reason in that time there comes out a sap, and they are fuller of humours than at any other time of the year, Cut then a great quantity of Hazle or Ash, the length of two or three foot, of the bigness of half your fist, taking away from them with a Bill all that is Superfluous, then take away the rind likewise; and of these make little bundles, and make them very dry in a warm Oven; then in a place chosen for that purpose, that is plain and even, set them upright one by another, and set them on fire; and after you see the fire well lighted, and that the fire hath reduced them all into burning Coals, cover them closely and diligently with wa­tered earth, so that it may have no respiration, or that no Air may pass in; then, the flame being thus stifled upon the Coals, they will remain pure and whole, with­out being charged with much Ashes; then 24 hours after, you may take them away and keep them for to serve you in your business, and put them to such uses as we shall write of hereafter.

But if you have occasion for a small quantity only, take then of the Arms and Limbs of such Trees aforesaid, that is of Teil wood, of Juniper, of Ash, &c. Cut them in small pieces, and dry them well; then shut them in an Earthen Vessel, and lute the Cover on the top with Clay; then place Coals round about the Pot, and let it be all covered with Coals, leaving them so the space of a good hour, continu­ing the fire all this while in the same degree of heat; at last let it cool of it self, and when 'tis cold, open the pot, and take out the Coals for your use.

CHAP. XVII.

THe wayes of Compounding of Gun-Powder have been so commonly known, that not only such as are conversant in fireworks do understand the same, but others also; so that it is made a particular Trade: nay, that which is more strange, the Countrey people in Polonia have learned to prepare it with their own hands, without the use of any Artificial Engine, or Chymical Vessel. For I have seen many of the People of Podolie, and Ʋkrains, which we call now the Cossaques, who pre­pare their Powder quite contrary to the common way, or that which is used by Fire-Masters. For they put Sulphur, Salt-Peter, Charcoal, all together in an Earthen Pot, a certain proportion of each; (which proportion one to the other they have learned by experimental practice) upon which they pour fair fresh water, which they boyl upon the fire until all the water is evaporated, and the matter become thick; then [Page 18] they take it from the fire, and dry it in the Sun, or in some warm place, as a Stove, or the like; then they pass it through a Hair Sieve, and reduce it into small Grains. There are others that take these Materials, and grind them upon a smooth flat Stone, or a smooth Earthen Dish, and then having moistned it, by their Skill they bring it into Grains; which powder brought to this degree of perfection, they serve their occasions with as much utillity and profit, as if it had been made by the hand of one of the most knowing or skilful Powder-makers in the world.

It is in my judgment, labour lost to speak more of these superficial wayes; but come to the order and method which is necessary and usually observed in the preparing of Gun-Powder: It shall likewise suffice me to propose in this Chapter some Com­positions most excellent and best approved; which are these,

You must first finely powder these compositions or mixtures, for Cannon or Musquet Powder, and after moissen them with fair fresh water or Vinegar, or with Aquavitae; but if you will have your Pistol Powder stronger and more violent, you ought to stir it up several times whilst tis in the Morter, with this following liquor; that is, a water distilled from Rinds of Oranges, Citrons, or Lemons, by an Alymbeck, or any other Chymical Vessel; then let all be beaten and well brayed 24. hours, and then in the end reduce it into very fine small grains.

A Liquor for this purpose may likewise be made of twenty parts of Aquavitae, and 12 parts of distilled Vinegar made of Whitewine, and four parts of Spirit of Salt-Peter, and two parts of water of Sal-armoniac, and one part of Camphire dis­solved in Brandy-wine, or reduced into Powder with powdered Sulphur, or redu­ced with Oyl of sweet Almonds.

To Corn Powder well, you must prepare a Sieve with a bottom of thick Parchment, made full of round holes; then moisten the Powder that must be corned with its water, and make it up in Balls as big as Eggs; which put into the Sieve, and with it put a wooden Bowls, and when you have so done, sift the Powder so, as the Bowl rouling about the Sieve, may break the Clods of Powder, and make it pass through those little holes into Corns.

It is observed by Fire-Masters and Gunners, that Powder when it is Corned, is of much greater force and power, than in Meal; from hence 'tis concluded, that powder when 'tis put into a Piece of Ordnance, ought not to be pressed or beaten home too hard in the Piece; for thereby it will loose its form of grains, and thereby looseth a great part of its strength that it had, and is therefore not able to throw out the Bullet with so great a violence, as if the Powder had been gently thrust home to the Britchend.

CHAP. XVIII.

KNow first that all the blackness which you see in Gun-powder comes from the Coal; not that this colour is absolutely necessary to be conjoyned to its nature, or that it is absolutely necessary to be given to it, for its meliorating or making it more vigorous; this is not so; but by contraryes you may be permitted to give unto it any such colours as you shall think fit, without prejudice or hinderance of the Pow­der and vertue of it. For if instead of Coal you take rotten dryed wood, or Sawdust well dryed, or white paper moistned and dryed in a Stove and powdered, or indeed any other thing of a combustible nature, or that is well disposed to take fire (such as you read hereunder) and to this you may add a colour according to your fancie and pleasure; and you will infallibly have a Powder that will make the same Effect as the black powder. And for this purpose I shall lay down in this Chap­ter certain mictions, with which I served my self many times, and therefore known to be experimental truths.

CHAP. XIX.

THere are several that do Write many strange things concerning this Still Powder, or Powder, without noise, or as some do give it the name, Deaf Powder, whereof they have treated prolixly; the which I think not convenient to do, by rea­son I am loath to tire the Reader with any such Discourse, as tends not much to Edi­fication: I shall therefore put down certain mixtures, which I have known to be more excellent and best approved.

CHAP. XX.

IT is accustomary for men skilled in these Arts, to try Powder three several wayes; that is, by sight, by touch, and by fire: And first, for the tryal by sight; it is thus,

If the Powder be too black, it is a manifest sign of too much humidity, or too much coal; now if it contain too much, as you suppose, rub it upon white Paper; if it black the Paper more than other good Powder use to do, it is a sign there is more coal in it than ought: for such Gun-Powder as is of a fair azure colour, or a little obscure, somthing bordering upon red, is the best sign, and the most assured testimony of good Powder.

Secondly, Gun-Powder its goodness is known by the touch, in this manner, crush some Corns under your fingers ends, and if they easily break and return to Meal with­out resisting the touch, or without feeling hard, you may assure your self from thence, that your Powder hath in it too much Coal.

If by pressing it a little hard under your fingers upon a smooth hard board, or upon a stone, you feel amongst it small grains harder or more sollid than the rest, which do in a manner prick the ends of the fingers, and do not yield to the finger but very difficultly, or hardly, you may infer from hence that the Sulphur is not well incorporated with the Salt-Peter, and by consequence the Powder is not well and duely prepared.

You may draw infallible proofs or conjectures of the goodness of Powder by its burning, if after you have made little heaps of Powder upon a clean and even Table, distant one from another about a hands breadth, you then put fire to one of them only; and if it take fire alone, and burn all away without lighting the others, and make a small thundring noise, or make a white clear smoak, and that it rise with a quickness, suddainly, almost imperceptible, and if it rise in the Air like a circle of smoak, or like a small Crown; this is an infallible sign the Powder is good, and perfectly well prepared.

If after the burning of the Powder there remain some black marks upon the Table, this then signifies that the Powder contains too much Coal, which has not been enough burnt.

If the board looks greasie, then the Sulphur and Salt-Peter is not enough cleansed, and by consequence it retains much of their terrestrial matter and oyly natures which were naturally conjoyned to their matters. If you find small grains, white and Citrine, it is a testimony that the Salt-Peter is not enough cleansed, and by consequence it [Page 22] retains much of its terrestrial matter, and of common Salt, and besides, the Sulphur hath not been well powdered, nor sufficiently incorporated with the two other matters of its Composition.

If two or three Corns of Gun-Powder be laid upon a Paper, distant about a fin­gers bredth one from the other, and you put fire to them, if the fire be good and strong, they will fire at once, and there will remain no grossness of Brimstone, or of Salt-Peter, nor any thing but a white smoaky colour in the place where they were burnt, nor will the Paper be touched. If small black knots, which will burn downward in the place where proof is made, remain after firing, they do shew that the Gun-powder hath no [...] enough of Peter, and that it is of little force or strength.

Good Gun-Powder will not burn your hand, if it be set on fire there.

Gun-Powder that is very sharp or eager in tast, is not well purified, and will turn moist.

Amongst many sorts of Powder, to know the best, make a little heap of every sort at a distance one from another; observing well when you fire each heap, which of them doth soonest take fire, for that which soonest takes fire, smoaks least and clearest, and riseth quickly up close and round, and leaves little or no sign behind it, is the best Powder.

There are Instruments likewise invented for the tryal or proof of Powder, which the most part of Fire-Masters and Gunners are accus [...]omed to use, which are described at large by other Authors; therefore we shall not here repeat the same; con­sidering likewise, that we have found by experience a great fallacy in the same, for that one and the same Powder, in the same measure and quantities, hath raised the cover to different degrees of height.

CHAP. XXI.

VVE call such Gun-Powder weak, which hath much degenerated from its fir [...]t strength, and the force which it did acquire in its first preparation; as such as hath dak [...]n wind, we [...], or air; for these do diminish the quantity of Salt-Peter, and actually separate the Sulphur and Coal.

There are two different wayes that these accidents do happen; that is, by being many years made, or lying in a mo [...]st place long; for in time the Salt-Peter alter [...] and separates it self, being naturally subject to alter, and return into its first matter; for Salt-Peter in its beginning or original being engendered of water, or of a certain Saline bu [...]our, no otherwise than other Salts are produced of their own proper Brines, doth at last, or in a long time, separate it self from the Coal and Sulphur [...] and so return to a Brine water again, as it was in the original, and so aban­do [...] [...] two matters that adhered to it▪ the Sulphur and Coals loosing no­thing of their weight, seeing that no humidity that is attracted, can [...]e able to dissolve them▪ b [...] ra [...]her by the contrary, the Coal doth attract greed [...]ly, and becomes more ponderous.

If for the reasons afore said you desire to repair and restore the strength of Gun-Powder that begins to alter, or that hath quite lost its force, its defects may be amended three several wayes, &c. viz.

The first is thus, make a Lye of two parts of Aquavitae, and one part of clarified Salt-Peter made into fine Powder, of good Vinegar made of good Wine half a part, of Oyl of Sulphur one eighth part, and as much Camphire dissolved in Brandy; these put together, do make a Lixivium, which must be strained through a large Strainer, and then with it you may amend your powder that is decayed, by moist­ning it with the same, very often, and drying it by the Sun in Wooden Vessels, and then putting it up in a dry place, free from any humidity or air, and then it will not in a long time again be damnified.

The second way to repair Powder is thus, examine how much your Powder weighed when it was first put into the Cask or Barrel, then see how much it doth now weigh after 'tis damnified (it being first dryed if it chance to be wet) then see the difference between these two weights, and add so much Salt-Peter to your decayed powder, mix it well, and make it up into Corns again, and preserve it as before.

The third way to restore the strength of Gun-Powder, is such as is most plain and commonly used amongst the Powder-men; they put upon a Sale-cloath or smooth place or board, a portion of damnified Powder, to which they add an equal weight of that which is new made, and then with their hand or wooden Shovel they mingle it well together; then they dry it in the Sun, and put it up into a Barrel again, and keep it in a dry and proper place.

Yet there is another way may be allowed, but this is almost the same with making new Powder, and it is thus; Take what quantity of decayed Powder you please, put it into Earthen or Wooden Vessels, pour upon the same three times so much hot water, stir it well about, and when it begins to be cold, or hath stood one hour or two, strain the water away, and to the feces put more water, stirring it well about, then let it stand and settle as before, and strain it from the feces, this do a third time, and you will have drawn out all the Salt-Peter; put these waters in a clean Kettle, and boyl it away until so much be consumed, as that a drop dropped upon a Stone or Iron do congeal, then pour it into some wooden Vessel that it may congeal into Salt-Peter; and that water as remains, you must boyl up again as before; and if need be, you must in the boyling skum what riseth on the top of the water. Having by this Art obtained the Salt-Peter out of the decayed Gun-Powder, you may according to the proportions given in the Composition of Powder, mix it with its remaining Sul­phur and Coal, or fresh Sulphur and Coal, which is better; and after 'tis well mixed, Corn it according to the given Rules; then let it be well d [...]yed, and put up into dry Powder Barrels, and let it be conse [...]ved in a dry place from Air or any Moisture.

Some do mend their Powder in this nature, they moisten it with Vinegar or fair water, beat it fine, and sift it and dry it, and to every pound of Powder they put one Ounce of Mealed Salt-Peter; then moisten and mix them well, so that neither may be discerned one from the other, but that they be perfectly incorporated, which you may know by cutting the Mass with a Knife, or breaking it: When it is well compounded, let it be Corned in manner as we have before prescribed.

If your Composition of Powder be made up with Aqua vitae, and so made up into great Balls, and well dryed in a Stove, or in the Sun, and put into glazed earthen Pots, and close covered, you may keep it as long as you please, for age will not decay it.

There ought alwayes a care to be taken by Gunners or Fire-Masters, or such as have the charge of Gun-powder, to chuse if they can such places as are dry, and stand upon the best ground, free from dampness of the Air or any water possibly coming near. Every Gunner, &c. ought to take care that his Barrel be turned upside down, or any Carthredge ready filled; for if the Powder attract air, the Peter with the moisture it hath attracted, will in time seperate from the other matters, and sink to the bottom; so that the Powder in the upper part will loose its strength, which is prevented by turning and shaking them every fourteen dayes, and airing them at the Sun at convenient times. And as 'tis necessary a Gunner should have Carthredges filled for present Service, those ought also to be turned out and filled again every four­teen dayes more or less, as the Gunner in his judgment shall allow of.

CHAP. XXII.

WE ought infallibly to believe that Gun-Powder was not found out casually, or by fortune; but invented by a true knowledge, and by reasonable spe­culation in Natural Philosophy; considering that to this day no man hath opposed (notwithstanding many persons have made it their endeavour) or could find any other Materials like unto these, or of such a nature, which being well united and in­corporated together, they are able to produce a fire so vigorous, fearful, powerful, and above all, so inextinguishable that the whole Universal matter is consumed in a moment; which is the more to be believed, since we make not much difficulty, particularly in this our Age wherein we live, to add many things to the invention of others, and that (as the Physitians say) all that had a beginning doth pass from imperfection to perfection. We desire therefore it may be permitted (since the Inventors have left us nothing in Writing) to propose here some Observa­tions of Speculative truths, drawn from Experiment, which have been made about the strength, nature, effects, and Office of all the matters comprehended in the Composition of Gun-Powder, as well of the particulars, as all made up into one body. For I believe, that having insinuated into a perfect knowledge of the pro­perties, and the affections, as well specificated as general, of all its Ingredients, no body more will fall into those Errors which are too often committed in the Art of Pyrotechny.

We must therefore know, that Gun-powder was not without reason composed of these three materials, to wit, Salt-Pete [...], Sulphur, and Coal, but to the end that one might remedy or supply the defaults of the others. And this is it which is easie to be comprehended in the effect of Sulphur; for this is naturally the very aliment of the fire, seeing it joyns with it so willingly and freely, and having once taken fire, is most difficult to put out, being no otherwise rightly than a flaming fire, or, to ex­press it better, a pure flame; and therefore hath an aptitude to enflame the Salt-Peter, by its activity, more than any other kind of fire. But as the Salt-Peter lighted doth go promptly into certain windy exhalations, it hath thereby such a strength in it, that it would by its ventosity put out the flame which the Sulphur hath concei­ved, and by consequence deny it self of that which the Sulphur communicateth to it; hereby you may see, if one had made a simple composition of these two things only, that is, of Sulphur and Salt-Peter compounded well together, if fire were then applyed, they would in truth be suddenly enflamed, but they would soon after go out, that is, the fire will not continue to the Conflagration and Consumption of the whole mat­ter, the reason whereof we have given a little before. It was therefore by good rea­son adjudged, that Coal well dryed and powdered, being adjoyned to these two ma­terials in a certain proportion, was an excellent remedy for the supplying of this de­fect, seeing that Coal is of such a property and of such a nature, that if it be held to the fire, it will soon light and be reduced to a fire without any flame; And from hence it comes to pass, that the more it is agitated by the Air, or by wind, the more the fire augments, and will not go out, but conserve it self until the matter that nouri­sheth it is totally consumed; a little ashes only excepted. From hence it was conclu­ded that a Composition made of these three Ingredients, such as is our Gunpowder, will conceive fire, and will be conserved, enflamed and consumed unto the last Atome. For it is most certain, that if we approach fire with it, the Sulphur which the fire extreamly loves is soon taken with it, and holdeth the same and introduceth it, not [Page 25] only into the Salt-Peter, but the coal also at the same moment, without producing any flame. Now this fire (as we have said before) cannot be suffocated by wind, but on the contrary is enflamed the more, and takes new strength by the agitation of the Air. And as this Sulphur is a great neighbour of the fire either with or without flame, so it cannot hinder it from taking fire; and 'tis the flame of the B [...]imstone imbraces the Salt-Peter, and the Coal continues it. And by consequence these three materials joyned together, and well incorporated, and then lighted, produceth a fire, until all its aliment and substance be universally consumed and annihilated: Yet there must care be taken that none of these substances have any accidental defaults, either in humidity or disproportion, either more or less. We will conclude then all that we have said, that the true office of Sulphur in the Powder is to conceive the flame or re­ceive the fire, and having received it, to communicate it to the other matters; and that the Coal hath a particular care to retain and consume it▪ and to hinder the fire (after it is once introduced by the Sulphur) from suffocating or going out by any windy Exhalation and great violence caused by the Salt-Peter; and lastly, that the most notable and particular office of the Salt-Peter is to produce and cause a most vehement and powerful ventosity or windy Exhalation. And in this which I have said, lieth all the truth of the strength, power and expulsive motion and activity of the Gun-powder; and by consequence Salt-Peter alone is the first and principal cause of all the admirable and astonishing Effects produced by Gunpowder; and conseqnent­ly, the two other materials are alliated with the Salt-Peter for no other end than to make it break forth into fire and wind. For proof of this, if any one will make a Composition of Sulphur and Coal only, and with it charge a Piece of Ordnance, he will find that this will not move or thrust out a Shot of Iron or any other metal; the reason of this weakness is easie to be understood by our foregoing discourse, because the violent expulsion depends absolutely in the Salt-Peter, and in this only expulsive faculty, and not in any of the other matters. Yea I believe that one may prepare Gun­powder [...]ithout Brimstone or Coal, rather than without Salt-Peter; or that a man may without much difficulty prepare other matters, that the one may do the office of Sulphur in kindling the matter, and the other that of Coal in Conserving it and keeping it without flame. But any other thing that hath such hidden natural properties to cause such a ventous Exhalation, so violent and capable to produce such prodigious Effects, as Salt-Peter, may not be produced.

CHAP. XXIII.

FIrst there must be made Cords of coarse hemp, or rather of Tow, about the big­ness of half your thumb, or a good finger in Diameter; then take the ashes of Oak, Ash, Elm, or Maple, three parts, of quick Lyme one part, and make thereof a Lye after the usual manner; which being done, add to it of the Liquor drawn from Horse dung neatly strained and leasurely exprimed through a strainer, or linnen Cloath, two parts, of Salt-Peter one part, and being all well mix'd, put into a Cop­per your Match Cords, and pour upon them your Lixivium, and make a small fire under the same, augmenting it gradually, until it be great, which you must keep [Page 26] boyling two or three dayes continually; not boyling it dry, as some of our Writers prescribe, but supplying it continually with fresh Lixivium, for fear both Match and Kettle burn for want of Liquor; in the end having taken out the fire, take the Cords out of the Liquor, and wring them hard in your hands, rubbing off the moisture from them with a peece of Cloath, that comes forth in the wringing; then hang them in the Air or Sun upon long Poles to dry, and when they are well dryed, make them up in bundles, and carry them into a commodious place to keep for use.

But to make Match that will never have bad scent nor smoak, you must get a cer­tain quantity of red Sand, or Gravel well washed, and purged from all its filth; put it into an Earthen pot that is not varnished, then put into the pot upon the Sand, your common Match, or any other made of Cotton, or the like matter, and coyle it in such manner, that there be half a fingers breadth of interval between every coyl of the Match, to the end they may not touch each other, but that the Match in its turning or Coyles have its sides equally distant one from the other; then throw again upon that a good quantity of Sand▪ and coyl in the Cord again as be­fore: Continue thus your work until your pot be full, then cover the pot with a co­ver of the same earth, and close well the joynts with Lute made of fat Earth that no Air may enter; This being well and surely done, put lighted coals round about the pot, and let it stand in this posture some time, then take it away and let it stand un­til it be quite cold before you open it; When 'tis perfectly cold, take off the Co­ver, pour out the Sand, and draw out the match, for 'tis prepared, and will burn as we have said.

CHAP. XXIV.

VVE have already in the Second Chapter of this Book shewn the way of mol­ding and casting peices of Ordnance; if well understood, you cannot be ig­norant in the way of Casting Shot. Therefore to avoyd any thing that might be tedious or unnecessary to the Students of this art, we will come to the most ne­cessary things concerning Shot, that is, such as every Gunner ought to know. But be­cause most of the propositions depend upon the knowledg of the Square and Cube Roots, which many (though otherwise knowing in most common Arithmetick) do not understand, I thought it good therefore to shew the Extraction of the Square and Cube Roots after a very easie way; with the necessary propositions in Gunnery, thereunto belonging.

CHAP. XXV.

CHAP. XXVI.

BEfore we come to work what we intend concerning a Piece of Ordnance, it is necessary to understand these Propositions following.

CHAP. XXVI.

THe general way is to allow for such Brass Pieces as are above 4000 l. five ounces and a half of powder to a hundred weight of Metal.

But for Culverin of Brass fortified of above 4000 l. about 3 ounces and a half compleat; yet there is used also generally for the proof of Shot three fourths or four fifths of the weight of the Iron Shot, but for the Service not above half the weight of the said Shot.

For Culverin, the whole weight of their Shot for proof and for action, is two thirds of its weight.

The Saker and Faulcon four fifths, the weight of their Shot; and for lesser Pieces the whole weight, and one third more for proof; but for action just its weight: but when they grow hot, a part must be abated according to discretion.

You must note, if you know how much Powder will Load a Brass Piece, three quarters so much will Load an Iron Piece of Ordnance.

CHAP. XXVII.

YOu must provide a Pike-staff, about a foot longer than the bore of the Piece, and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head, that will just fill all the bore to the touch hole; and at the other end of the staff, you must bore a hole big enough to put through a Rod of Iron, which must hand from the same; and at the other end of the Rod must be made a weight about the bigness of a Saker Shot, this is done to make the Pike-staff and Rammer head to lie with the same side upward when they are taken out of the Piece, as they did when they were within the Piece; then you must put your Instrument thus prepared into the Piece, letting the Iron Ball (that is at the end of the Rod, which is put through the hole bored a cross the Pike-staff) hand per­pendicular; then take your priming Iron, or some other bodkin, and put it down the touch hole to the Rammer head, making a mark therewith; this done, draw out your Instrument, and lay the same on a long Table, with the Iron Ball hanging off the end perpendicular, as it did when the Instrument was in the Piece; then observe, whether the mark you made upon the Rammer head when it was in the Piece, be just upon the uppermost part of the same, if it be, the bore of the Piece lies neither to the right hand nor to the left; but if you find it any thing to the right or left hand, so much lyeth the bore either to the right or left, and the Piece in Shooting must be or­dered and charged accordingly.

But if you would know whether the bore lie more upwards or downwards, then bend a Wire at the very end, so that it being put in at the very touch hole, may ketch at the metal when it is drawn out, then put the Wire down the touch hole till it touch [Page 47] the bottom of the metal in the Chamber, then holding it in that place, make a mark upon the wire just even with the touch hole, after draw up the wire until it ketch at the metal on the top of the Chamber, and holding it there, make a mark as before; the difference between the two marks is the just wideness of the Chamber, and the distance between the first mark and the end of the Wire (having half the Diameter of the Chamber of the Piece substracted from it) will leave half the Diameter of the Piece, if the Piece be true bored; but if the Piece's number be more than half the Diameter of the Piece, the bore lieth too far from the touch hole, and the upper part of the me­tal is thickest, but if lesser, the lower part of the metal is thickest or hath most metal.

CHAP. XXVIII.

A Master Gunner intending upon service, ought most chiefly to be prepared with these Instruments, as Calabers, Compasses, height board, Sight Rule, Gun­ners Scale, and a Gunners quadrant; to divide as well into 12 as 90 equal parts, with a Geometrical Square, to make Montures, Levels, heights, Breadths, Distances, and Profundities, (of which you shall read more in the Second Part;) also with a little brass Level, Scales, Weights, Priming-Irons, Moulds to make Cross-bar Shot for Mus­quets, a Book of Accompts, and an Iron wire or Spring, and a Transome to dispart a Piece of Ordnance; that the Transome may go up and down according to the Dia­meter and thickness of the Piece, let the Transom be long enough to reach the base Ring, from the touch hole. In the next place he ought to be very expert in the know­ledg of cutting out, making up, and finishing all sorts of Ladles, Spunges, Rammers, Cartredges, &c. For which purpose you may have Recourse to the foregoing Ta­ble. And because it may somtimes happen by reason of the steepness, badness and une­venness of the way, you may be driven to dismount and remount your Piece, e're you get up to the top of a Hill; therefore you must carry with you a Gynn and a Wynch, with all the appurtenances thereunto belonging; as wind Ropes, an Iron Goats-foot, with a Crow, Pins, Truckles, Pullies to help you at a dead lift.

CHAP. XXIX.

FOr the better expedition of this work we have in the former Table shewed the length and breadth of each Ladle, always remembring that you cut each Ladle somewhat longer, that is, allowing so much more as must be fastned to the staff, or so much as the staff goes within the Plate.

The Buttons or heads of the Ladles must be near the height of the shot.

For Spunges, the bottoms and heads must be of soft wood, as Birch and Willow, and to be one Diameter and three quarters in length, and three quarters or very little less of the height covered with Sheeps skin, and nayled with Copper nayles, so that together they may fill the hollow of the Piece; Let the bottoms and heads of the Rammers be made of good hard wood, and the height, one Diameter of the Shot, and the length one third of the Diameter of the Shot.

To make Ladles for Chamber bor'd Pieces, open your Compasses to the just Di­ameter of the Chamber within one eighth part of an Inch, Divide that measure in two equal parts, then set the measure to one of them, and by that distance upon a flat or paper draw a Circle, the Diameter of that Circle is one fourth part shor­ter than the Diameter of the Chamber; Take three fifths of that Circle for the breadth of the Plate of the Ladle. But for Cannon, the length ought to be twice and two third parts, to hold at twice the just Diameter of the Powder. As for Example,

The Diameter of a Circle drawn for a Cannon whose Chamber bore is 7 Inches, containeth six and three quarters, the circumference whereof is 21 Inches 6/7, and three fourth parts thereof is 12 ¾, and so much ought the Ladle to be in breadth, and in length 18 ⅔ parts. By this Rule you may make a Ladle for any Taper'd Piece.

Take notice for a general observation, that a Ladle 9 balls in length, and two balls in breadth, will near contain the just weight in Powder, that the Iron Shot for any piece weigheth.

Lastly, for Cartredges, they are generally made of paper Royal or Canvas. Take the height of the bore of your piece without the vent of the Shot, and cut the cloath or paper of 3 such heights, for the Cannon in length 3 Diameters, for the Culve­rin 4 Diameters, for the Saker and Faulcon &c. half of the height of their proper bores, and leaving in the midst at the top or bottome one other such height, to make a bottom for the Cartredge, cutting each side somthing larger for Sewing, glewing, or pasting them together; you must have a great care to augment the goodness of your powder, and likewise the heating of your Piece, and so augment or diminish the quantity of Powder.

Let your Former be made to your Ordnance to the height of your Shot, and a convenient length longer than the Cartredge ought to be, and tallow it over first that the paper may slip off, and then put your paper on your Former. If you make your Cartredge of Canvas, half a Diameter more is allowed for seams, but if you make it of paper, half or three quarters of an Inch over-plus for pasting will serve, be­ing lapt once about the Former; having the bottom fitted upon the end of the Former, which must be hard and close pasted by the lower side of the Cartredge, then let the lower end of the Cartredge be pasted down hard round about the bottom, and let them be well dryed before you fill them, and mark them how high they must be filled.

And if you have no Scales nor weights by you for Cannons, put two Diameters and a half for the height the powder must come, for Culverin 3 Diameters, for Saker 3 and a half Diameters, for lesser Pieces four Diameters of the Cylinder.

For Carriages of Pieces of Ordnance for Land service the Rules are given thus one and a half the length of the Cylender is the length of the Carriage, and in depth four Diameters of the bore of the Piece at the fore end, in the middle three and a half, and at the end next the ground two and a half, let the thickness be the Diameter of the Shot, the wheels should be one half of the length of the Piece in height, but for Sa­ker and Minion you must exceed the former proportion by one twelfth part, the Faulcon and Faulconet by the sixth part.

The Naves, the Cheeks called Limbres, and wheels, are usually made of Elm, but the Transoms, Axeltreces, Fore-Carriage and Cross beams, are made of Oaken Timber.

For drawing of Guns by men in case horses be wanting, there is usually allowed to every sixty, eighty, or a hundred weight of metal to one man, according to the na­ture of the ground whereon they are to be drawn.

As for Sea Carriages, they are so well known to every Carriage-maker that they need not to be spoken of.

As for fitting Shot to each Piece, it is the opinion of most Gunners, that every Piece of Ordnance ought to have its Shot within one quarter of an Inch of the Diameter of the bore; others do say, that the one and twentieth part of the Diameter of the Piece's Cylender is more proper and correspondent for all sorts of Pieces whatsoever; Eve­ry man may make choice of that which by experience he finds best.

CHAP. XXX.

HAving shewed the compleat making of Pieces of Ordnance, and the preparing of powder and Shot, with the due allowance of powder fit for every Gun, with all the Instruments and Materials necessarily belonging to a Piece, as to its Rigging and Loading; It remains now, that we go Artist like to work to charge a Piece, and order all things for the best conveniency, and that the less danger may follow when you come to Action or Service; and for that purpose having planted your Piece upon the plat-form, have in readiness powder, Bullets, Linstocks, Scowrers, Ram­mers, and the rest of your things. Stick up your Linstock to Leeward of you; then to work with your Piece. First, cleer your Piece within with the Scowrer, and see that the touch hole be clear, and not stopped, and so clear, that no dirt or filth be in the same; Then let him that is by to assist, (for a Piece cannot be man­naged by less than two) bring the Budg-barrel with the powder just before the mouth of your Piece, put then your Ladle into the same and fill it, and if it be over-full, give it a little jog, that the overplus may fall down again into the barrel; after this, put it gently in at the mouth of the Piece, even until the end of the Ladle be thrust up to the Britch end of the Piece; then must you turn the Ladle gently and softly, and let it lie within the Chamber of the piece, drawing out your Ladle almost to the Muzzle of the Piece, put it back again to take up the loose corns, which were spilt by the way, and to bring them up to the Charge of powder; this done, the Gunner must draw out his Ladle, and take out of the Budg-barrel a second Ladle full, (by our former Rules given he must know the quantity of powder that his Piece will re­quire) and so putting it in the Piece up to the former Ladle-full, then you may draw it out, and do as you did before, that no loose corns may lie in the bottom of the Piece; and in drawing out his Ladle, he must have a care that he let not fall any powder upon the ground; for it is a thing uncomly in a Gunner, to trample powder under feet. Then take a wisp of Straw, Hay, or any other thing, and put it hard in at the mouth of the Piece, then turn your Ladle end for end to come to the Rammer, thrust it in­to the Piece after the wisp, and drive it up with it, and it will carry all the loose corns which possibly may be scattered in the Mold of the Piece; having driven the wad up to the powder, give it two or three gentle shoves to make it lie close only, but drive it not too hard least you break your powder too much, which would hinder its force; The wisp or wad being close to the powder, draw out the Rammer and put in the Bullet, which rowle gently in the Piece up to the wad that was before put in to keep up the powder; the Shot being in, put in a second wad after the Bullet, and thrust it also home to [Page 50] the Bullet. Always remembring whilst the powder is putting in and wadding up, one be ready at the touch hole and keep it stopt with his thumb, that no powder fly out at the touch hole, but that it be likewise filled with powder, which may be supplyed out of his powder-horn.

The Gunner that Loads a Piece is to be very careful, and indeavour always not to stand before the muzzle of his Piece whilst he is loading the Piece, but on one side of the same, least a danger or mischief might happen to him. And thus the Piece ha­ving its due Charge of Powder and Bullet, he must cover the touch-hole with an Apron made of Lead, or for want of that, with dryed Sheep-skin; then let him level his piece and set away the Budg-barrel of powder with the rest of his things, in some hollow place under the ground covered over safe; he must then attend the Gentleman of the Ordnance, or other chief Commander, their Order or Command, before he give fire.

Touching the Charges of Pieces, I have given full instructions necessary there­unto, with the weight of powder and Shot for any piece. But to say something here touching the quantity of powder, proper for a Load; we do find some dif­ference amongst Authors; Some whereof do maintain, that there ought to be allow­ed to every Piece for its Charge so much powder as half the weight of the Bullet; o­thers are of the opinion, that the more powder is put into a Piece, the swifter and farther the Bullet will flye, urging many reasons to prove it. But experience, the Mistress of this Art instructeth us better, for if a Piece be loaden with two thirds of the weight of her Shot in powder, it sends the Bullet or Shot going more swiftly, and will carry it farther, which hath been very many and often times tryed, so that at this time, 'tis without contradiction.

Again, others do maintain, that if one should forcibly Ramme the Bullet, then the powder might take fire before it cast forth the Bullet, and then would cause the Bul­let to flye farther than otherwise it would do; but you must consider in so doing, you either endanger the breaking of the piece, or else the making it crooked and unser­viceable; because your ordinary Pieces will not bear so great a Charge of powder. This hath been tryed by the Sea side before his Excellency Prince Maurice, of famous memory, where first one and the same Piece was Loaden with ten pound of fine pow­der, to see how far She would carry the Bullet; the place being marked where the Bullet rested. The Piece was loaden again with nine pounds of powder which shot as far as when the Piece was Loaden with ten pounds of powder. But last of all, this piece of Ordnance being Loaden or Charged with 7 pounds of the same powder, it carried her Bullet further than the two former Shots; whence one may observe that a piece of Ordnance may be over-Charged, and therefore a good Gunner ought to have a singular care to give unto his Piece her due measure and Charge.

CHAP. XXXI.

HE that intends to be a Master Gunner, and would not abuse himself nor others of the same profession, must be qualified according to our Instructions follow­ing, viz.

He ought to be well skilled in Arithmetick, and to understand the Extraction of the Square and Cube Roots, and to have knowledge in Geometry, according to our [Page 51] Instructions in the second part, whereby he may be able to take heights, depths, breadths and lengths, and to draw the plot of any piece of ground, to make Mines and Countermines, Rampars, Baskets of earth, and such like things used in time of war, as well offensive as defensive.

He ought most chiefly upon Land-Service to be well skilled in the making Plat­formers, with Defences, Troniers, Gabbions, Loops, Parapets of Earth, and Pag­gots of 23 or 24 foot high; two foot high of Earth, bed upon bed, unto eleven foot high, and after three foot Terra plene, to raise the Tronniers and Loops, so that for the Cannon it be three foot wide in the Barbe, and within twelve foot wide, without the lower part thereof to descend Scarp-wise, the better to discover the E­nemies avenues and offend them more freely, for avoiding the blast and Smoak and ruine it would else make: for Culverin two foot and a half within, and nine foot without will serve; and for less Pieces the less measure.

If the Battery be to be made with Gabbions, they being filled with Earth without Stones, moistned and Rammed 7 foot in Diameter, three Ranks between two Pieces, if the place will permit, or two at least; and three Rows also one before the other, setting one between two, so that if one Rank will have three, the second will have two, and the third one; but it will be hard to make a safe Battery with Gabbions, Cannon or Culverin proof.

Concerning Plat-forms. Let the platform for a Cannon have thirty foot for reverse, and 27 foot for a Demy-Cannon, and he ought to see that his plat-forms be even, or rising one foot for 20 foot backward the better to stay the Reverse, and fa­cilitate the bringing the piece when Loaden to the Loop. The platform ought to be made clean, that no stones or other things lye in the way for the wheels to run upon, whereby may be hindered the true intent of his Shot.

He must before any service is, examine his Piece of its goodness or defect; according to our former Instructions given in this behalf, he must also be furnished with all necessary things for his Artillery, the particulars thereof we have mentioned in the 29 Chap. but because it takes not up much paper we will repeat them here again, viz.

Wheels, Trucks, Axeltrees, Ladles, Rammers, Spunges, Worms, Tampions, height-board, Auger-bit, fitness and roundness of the Shot, Chane-Shot, Cross­bar Shot &c. Canvas or strong paper for Cartredges, Calabers, Compasses, Sight Rule, Gunners Scale, Quadrant, Scales, Weights, priming-Irons, and Aprons to cover the Touch hole.

Before he come upon Service, he ought to examine and prove the goodness of his Powder and Match, and examine it according to the Rules given where we treat of the Examination of the goodness of Powder.

A Gunner ought to be most careful to see that the Powder be placed safely from danger of his own, as also the Enemies Ordnance, and to be furnished with artificial Torches, Dark Lanthorns, with all sorts of Fire-works, of which you shall have a particular account in the Treatise of Fire-works at the end of this Book.

He must have by him his Gyn and Winch, Hand-Spikes, Crowes, to mount and dismount Guns at pleasure as occasion may serve, also Coynes, Budge-Barrels, Powder Baskets to carry Shot to your Piece, to keep his Linstocks well armed with good Match.

He must alwayes have by him a Ruler, Scale, Compasses, to measure the Dia­meters or Bore of every Piece, and likewise the length of the Cylinder within, the better to fit her with due Shot and Proportion of Powder.

He must learn by such Instructions as we have already given, the Names, Length, Weight, and Fortification of every Piece about the Chamber, and to tell readily how much Powder is a due Charge for every Piece, and what Shot is neces­sary. How many Persons must attend in time of Service, how many Horses or Oxen will draw a Piece of Ordnance, and in case they be wanting, how many men will serve. How many pound weight of Shot one man may drive before him in a Wheel-barrow from place to place.

A Gunner ought chiefly to Charge and Discharge a Piece of Ordnance Artist like; and when he opens, or orders to be opened the head of a Powder Barrel, let no Iron Tool be used thereunto for fear of taking or striking fire; for that purpose therefore it is usual to have wooden Mallets, which will prevent such dangers.

Every Gunner before he beginneth to make a Shot, ought to consider that a wad of Hay, or of untwisted Ropes, will make the Shot shoot wide of the Mark.

He ought to consider whether the Trunions be placed in their due place in the Carriage, whether the Carriage have its due length, whether one wheel be not higher than the other, or whether one wheel doth not reverse quicker or sooner than the other, for these will cause the Piece to erre, and to shoot wide of the Mark.

Every Gunner ought to consider, that if his Piece lye point blank or under Metal, then he ought to put in a sufficient wad after the Shot, to keep it close to the Powder; for if it should not be close, great danger might follow; for if the Shot should lodge any distance from the Powder, then in the firing of that Piece it would break off in that very vacant place between the Shot and the Powder, and so do dammage to himself or standers by. If your Piece be mounted, you then use no wad at all after the Shot.

Every Gunner ought to have standing by him some Tubs of water to wet his Spunges in, whereby to cool his Piece in time of Service, as also to be ready upon occasion to put out any Fire that might happen in time of Service.

Every Gunner ought to try whether his Piece is truely bored or not; if it be not, he is to take it into consideration, and to order his proportion of Charge, according to the thinnest part of the Metal, to prevent all danger.

A Gunner ought to take his Observation of the Mark or place he intends to direct his Shot to, just over the middle of the bore within the Piece, for by this means he may be able, by his Skill, to make a true Shot in a bad Piece.

A Gunner, that he may the better direct his Shot to the place desired, ought to consider the difference of the Metal of the Piece at Britch and Muzzle, and thereby truely how to dispart a Piece, be it either true bored or not. Of disparting a Piece, I shall shew how it may be done several wayes in the following or second part of this Gunnery; where we come to the practical part of the Art in handling a Piece of Ordnance upon all occasions.

CHAP. I.

FIrst, you must make a common simple large Quadrant thus with your Ruler, draw the Line A B, and with the Distance A B in your Compasses upon the Center A describe the Arch B D, then with the Distance A B, setting one foot of your Compasses in B, set it off upon the Arch B D, and it will reach to L, divide the Arch B L into two equal, parts and that will be at E; The distance O L, being set upwards from L, will reach to D; so then drawing the Line A D, will make the Quadrant A B D, and the Arch B O L D will be divided into three equal parts; now every one of those parts must again be divided into three equal parts, and every one of them into 10 equal parts, so will your Quadrant be divided into 90 equal parts, called Degrees.

CHAP. II.

COnvey the left side of the Quadrant Geometrically towards the Sun, the Thread and Plummet having their free course, moving it up or down until both your sights have received the Sun-beams; then if your Thread be found in the twelfth part, all things that are upright or truly perpendicularly elevated, are equal in height with their shadows.

If the Thread with the plummet be observed to cut any of those parts next the sights, called right shadow, between m and h, then every upright thing is more than the sha­dow, by such a proportion as 12 exceeds the parts where the Thread was found.

If the Thread fall upon the first division, then 12 times the shadow is the height. If it fall upon the second Division, 6 times the shadow is the height. If it fall upon the third Division, 4 times the shadow is the height. If it fall on the fourth Division, 3 times the shadow is the height. In the fifth Division twice and two fifths of the shadow is the height. In the sixth twice, in the seventh once, and five sevenths in the eighth Division, one and a half in the ninth, one and a third in the tenth, one and a fifth part in the eleventh, once and the eleventh part of the shadow is the height on the twelfth part, then the length of the shadow is the height, as we said before.

Or in few words it may be done thus, Multiply the length of the shadow by 12, the product divided by the parts in which you found the Thread, your quotient sheweth the height.

But if the part cut be on the contrary shadow, that is, if the Thread fall between g and m, augment then the length of the shadow by the parts declared by the plummet, and the increase divide by 12, and the product is the Altitude.

Example. In the Foregoing figure it is plainly to be perceived, when the figure falleth upon the 12 Division, the shadow is equal with the thing it self; In the 6 of the right, it [Page 56] is but half, in the 6 of the contrary it is twice the height, and so to conclude, as the side in the right exceeds the parts, so doth the Altitude the shadow; and the contrary in the contrary shadow. Behold the figure 6 where you will find the Thread cutteth 6 parts of the contrary shadow upon the Quadrant, the shadow B C then being 210 foot, multiply (as I have said) the length of the shadow 210 foot by 6, the parts cut by the Thread, and it makes 1260, and that divided by 12 riseth 105, which is the Altitude of such a body, that casts a shadow of 210 feet.

Also the height of any unknown thing may be known by taking the length of its shadow, and the length of the shadow of any staff set upright whose length is known, saying, as the length of its shadow is to its height, so the length of the shadow of the unknown thing is to its height.

CHAP. III.

LIft up ingeniously your Quadrant exactly made towards the thing to be measu­red, looking diligently through both sights backward or forward, as occasion is given, until you see the top, so that your Line or Thread fall just upon the middle of 12 Division; now if you measure your distance from you to the foot of the Ob­ject, which is the point directly under the top, then have you the Altitude of the highest summitie to the right point or base in height equal with our standing, adjoy­ning with it the height of your eye downwards.

CHAP. IV.

SEek two Stations going hither and thither, yea, toward or from the thing you intend to measure, so that in the one place the thread may fall just in 12, and at the other Station in 6 points of a right shadow; then if you double the Distance of both places, the Summitie shall appear from that part of the thing measured, which is equal in height with your Eye; or if your standing be even with the Base, joyning to that double distance the height of your eye, you have the whole Altitude from the ground, &c. If the one Station cause the Thread to fall in 12, and the other in 8 of a right Shadow, then triple the Distance between the two Stations, so have you the height also: Or if the one be in 12, and the other in 9 of right shadows, then qua­druple the distance, the one under 12, and the other under 6 of the contrary sha­dow, and the place between both Stations is equal with that you measure, ever un­derstanding from your Eye upwards.

CHAP. V.

YOur Quadrant, as in the former Figure, handsomly elevated against or towards the thing to be measured, perceiving through both sights just the top, mark well the Division or points crossed by your Thread, whether it be of the right shadow, then multiply the distance between you and the foot of the Object by 12, and divide that Sum by the parts cut upon your Quadrant, which your Thread manifesteth; and the remainder is the height of the Object from your Eye.

But if the Thread fall upon contrary shadows, work contrarily, that is, augment it by the part, and divide that Sum by 12; Remembring ever to add the height of your eye downward to your quotient; so have you your desire, the Base being e­qual with your standing.

Example. Admit the Thread with the plummet note 6 parts of contrary, as you may see in the foregoing figure, the distance from the base A to your standing B 115 foot multiplied by 6, so have you 690, which divided by 12 yieldeth 57 [...] foot; to this adjoyn 5 foot (being the height of your eye from the ground) and so find the Altitude to be 62 ½ foot.

CHAP. VI.

THis Work is Performed as the former in the 2d. Chap. only here with a Plum­met and Line we take the heighth or depth from the top of the Castle A, to the foot of the Castle B; and suppose that to be equal to the distance there taken, and the distance B C equal to the height, and then work by the Rules there given, and you will find the distance C B. This is so plain there needs no Example.

CHAP. VII.

AMongst many practices I find this the onliest way to obtain our desire without the help of an Instrument, yet in this is necessarily required to have ground e­nough at liberty on one side. Then begin thus; at the beginning of your Length set up a staff or mark that may be seen afar off, then go from it Orthogonal or Square-wise on which side you will 200 foot; the more ground the better; Put up there a staff also: now convey your self to the first staff or mark, going back from it 300 foot, more or less, at your pleasure, set up there a third staff so, that the first mark or staff and it a­gree all in a streight Line from your sight to the farthest part of your length by the judgment of your eye; now go side-wise from thence as far in a right Angle, until the second mark offer it self aright between the extream part of your length and sight, and [Page 58] [...] [Page 59] [...] [Page 60] there put the fourth staff. All this performed, seek out the distance between the first staff and the Second, and that name your first distance; then the distance between the first and third, name your second distance; Again, the distance between the third and fourth staff is the third distance. Deduct your first distance from the third, so re­maineth the Divisor; then multiply your third distance by your second, and the pro­duct divide by your Divisor, the quotient sheweth the true length from the third staff to the fortress or mark desired: for plainness behold the figure.

Example. Here this Letter A represents the Castle, being the distance to be measured; B is your first staff; C the second staff, differing from B the first Orthogonal 100 foot; D the third staff, being distant back from the first in a Right line with the mark A 133 foot; E is the fourth staff, running sidewise Orthogonally, or in a Square, from the third, until the farthest part of your length A, is perceived in a right Line with the second staff at C; and this distance D E let be 120 foot. Now by Substra­ction take 100 from 120, there remaineth for a Divisor 20; then multiply 133 by 120, so riseth 15960, which divided by 20, and there cometh 798 foot, the true distance between D and A, from which if you abate A B 133, there remaineth B A your propounded distance.

But forasmuch as this conclusion is to be done without Instrument, and here Or­thogonal motions sidewise is required, it shall be requisite also to declare how an Orthogonal or Right angle is upon a sudden to be made; ye shall therefore (accord­ing to Pythagoras's Invention mentioned among the Definitions at the beginning of this Book) take 3 Staves, Cords, or such like, making the one 4 such parts, as the other is 3, and the third 5; This done, conjoyn their ends together, and the angle sub­tended of the longest staff is a right, which first placed at B, and after at D, directing one of his comprehending sides to A, the other shall guide you to C and E; or if you desire with more expedition to dispatch, and not to tarry the proportioning of Cords, or such like, to this Pythogarick Rule, take any 3 Staves, Sticks, or Threads, and conjoyn them, making a Triangle, it matters not of what form or fashion they be, [...] placing one angle thereof at B, turning one side to A, direct your self side­wise to the other, alwayes remembring to place the same angle at D, and departing sidewise again in like manner, in all the rest do as before is declared. Thus using any mean diligence, yuo shall most exactly measure any distance.

CHAP. VIII.

YOu must first (as we have declared in the last Chapter) prepare a Triangle, with joyning any three Staves, or such like, together, which you must (at your standing) place in such sort, that one of the sides containing the Angles, may lye di­rectly toward the Mark: Then setting up a Staff, Pike, or other Mark there, depart sidewise, as the other side of your Angle shall direct you, so far as you list, the more ground the better, and there set up your second Staff or Mark; then go directly back from your first Staff (alwayes keeping it exactly between your sight and the Mark) as many score again, or Pike lengths, as you list, setting up a third staff; this done, you shall place the same Angle you used at your first Staff now again at your third staff, in all points as it was before; the one side of the Angle lying directly toward the first Staff, the other side will shew you whither you shall go to place your fourth Staff; for passing still in a right line with that side of your Angle, you shall at the last find the second justly scituated between you and the farthest Mark, and there set up the fourth Staff; then remove your Angle again to the second Staff, and placing there as be­fore, the one side even with the first Staff, pass on in a right line with the other, until you come directly between your nearest Mark and the fourth Staff, and there pitch up the fifth.

Now you must measure how many Paces, Halbeards, or Pikes length, are between your first and second Staff, deducting that from the distance between the third and fourth, and the Remainder shall serve you for a Divisor; then multiply your di­stance between the second and fifth Staff by the distance between the third and fourth, the product divide by your reserved Divisor, and it yieldeth in the Quotient the true distance between these two Marks. See the foregoing Figure.

CHAP. IX.

LEt your Angles, as before hath been said, be prepared of any three Staves, &c. you shall first at pleasure set up one Staff, and applying thereunto your Angle in such sort, that the one containing side lye directly to one of the Marks (which here for distinction sake I will call the first) go backwards too and fro until you find your second Mark precisely covered with your Staff, nothing what part of the line or side subtending the Angle it cuts by your line visual, and there make a fine notch or mark upon that subtending Staff; which done, you shall go sidewise from the first erected Staff, as the other containing side of your Triangle will direct you, so far as you list, [Page 63] and then set up your second Staff; yet pass on from thence in a right line with that containing side of your Angle that riseth from your Staves, and cometh somewhat toward the Mark, and go so far until you spy your self just between your third Staff and your first mark, there set up your fourth Staff; then resort to your Angle again, and standing behind the second Staff, note whither a right line from the Angle to that notch (before made on the subtendent Staff or side of the Triangle) will direct you, for that way precisely shall you go on until you come in a right line with the second and third Staff, and erect there the fifth Staff; this done, measure the distance be­tween the second and third Staff, reserving that for a Divisor; then multiply your distance between the first and third Staff, by the distance between the fourth and fifth Staff, the product divide by your reserved Divisor, and it yieldeth in the Quotient the true distance between the two marks.

CHAP. X.

LEt the Quadrant be made upon a square Board as is there marked A D B Q. Let D B be divided into 90 Degrees or equal parts; and instead of the 12 equal parts, or right and contrary shadows, g m and h m, let the two sides D Q and B Q be divided each into 1200 equal parts, or as many as you please, and marked from the Center A, and have a Ruler or Index to be moved round upon the Center A [...] having two sights upon it, set just upon the feducial line of the Index, and let it be divided into such equal parts as the Lymb B Q, or D Q.

Let this Instrument thus fitted be handsomly placed upon its Staff, or otherwise, lay the feducial of your Index upon the beginning of the Degrees of the Quadrant, and turn your whole Instrument (the Index not moved) till you may espy through the sight your mark, then remove your Index to the contrary side of the Quadrant, placing the line feducial on the side line where the degrees end, and look through the sights, and in that very line set up a mark a certain distance, the farther the better; this done, take away your Instrument, and set up a Staff there, and remove the In­strument to the mark you espyed; set your Index on the beginning of the Degrees, moving your whole Instrument, till you find through the Sights the Staff at the first Station, then remove your Index (your Quadrant keeping its place) till you may again espy through the Sights your mark; which done, note the Degrees cut by the line feducial, and then work thus, upon some even smooth Superficies, whether it be Board, Plate, or Paper: Draw first a streight line, and open your Compasses to some small distance, call that space a score, and make so many such divisions upon your Line as there is scores between your Stations; then upon the end of your line raise a perpendicular, and fixing one foot of your Compasses at the other end, open­ing it to what wideness you please, draw an Arch rising from the same line that represents your Stationary distance, and dividing it into 90 equal parts or Degrees (as you was taught in the making your Quadrant) extend from the Center to the number of Degrees cut by your feducial line, a right line, until it concur with the perpendicular before erected; then see how much of that space (which representeth the score in dividing your Stationary distance) is contained in the perpendicular; so many score is the mark off from your first Station, and by dividing the Hypothenusal line, you may find the Distance from the second Station.

CHAP. XI.

THis may be resolved by the former Proposition, measuring how far either di­stance is from your self, and then deduct the one from the other; or thus, another way, the side of your Geometrical Square directed towards them, depart Orthogo­nally, as is before declared, 100 or 200 paces at your pleasure, but the more the [Page 66] better; then place your Instrument again, turning the side of it towards the first Station, remove then the Index to either marks, nothing what parts at either place the Index doth cut of the Scale; and if the Index at both times falls on the left side, deduct the lesser from the greater; with the number remaining, augment this di­stance between your Stations, and dividing by the whole side of the Scale, your Quo­tient is the distance. If the Index fall on the right side at either time, then must you by the Rule given in the Ninth Chapter, reduce them into proportional parts; or if at one time it fall on the left side, and at another time on the right, then shall you only reduce the parts cut on the right side; which done, deduct as before is said, the lesser from the greater, and with the remainder multiply your distance Stationary, the pro­duct divided by 1200, yieldeth how far one mark is beyond another.

CHAP. XII.

THis at two Stations may be done, as we have done before; but we will here sup­pose but one Station, knowing the distance from that Station to each place, and the Angle it makes with each Station; then by help of a pair of Compasses, and any line of equal parts, this is most easily wrought, as is well known to small Practi­tioners in this Art, it being also the 4th Question in Right-lined Oblique Tri­angles.

I did intend to shew the working of every one of these Questions by Logarithms; but considering a Gunner hath not alwayes such Tables by him (and if he have them and understands right-lined Triangles, doubtless he may easily apply them to this work) I therefore thought what I have done in this case to be sufficient.

CHAP. XIII.

THis Instrument is four square, with a Circle in the middle, divided into 360 equal parts or degrees. Let the division of the square be from 1 to 100, or as many as you can; you must also have fixed to it an Index, with sight upon the same, as you may see by the Figure following in the next Page. It is called a Circumfe­renter or Geometrical Square.

CHAP. XIV.

THis Scale is made according to the Diameter of our English Ordnance, not above 8 inches long, being the Diameter of a Cannon Royal; they are generally made of Box, Pear-tree, or Brass, any well seasoned Wood that will not warp may serve: Upon one side I have set the names of all sorts of Ordnance; and in the Angle of meeting with the names, is the Angle at the Bore; and between that and the next less Diameter, is the common length of such a Piece; and upon the step of bredth is the number of paces these Pieces shoot point blank; and right in the Angle of meet­ing, betwixt the two Diameters, with the Angle of meeting with the names, is first the weight of the Gun, the breadth of the Ladle, the length, weight of the Charge of Powder, the Diameter of the Shot, weight of the Shot, and a line of inches, and tenth parts of an inch. The Backside is also divided into inches and quarters of inches, and over them is shewed the weight of every Iron Shot answerable to those inches, with the [Page]

[Page 68] [...] [Page 69] [...] [Page 70] [...] [Page] [...] [Page] [Page 71] weight of the like Bullet in Lead and Stone; each being distinguished. You may also if you please have upon this side the Gunners Quadrant, and such other things as you shall think fit, as you may see in this Figure following, where all things are distinguished by their Names, and need no more Explanation.

You will observe by this Instrument, that the Ladle is but 3 Diameters of the Shot in length, and ⅗ part of the Circumference, from the Cannon to the whole Culvering, and the charge of Powder will be found to be about 2 Diameters of the Piece; from the Culvering to the Minion, the Charge may fill 2 Diameters and a half; and from the Minion to the Base 3 Diameters; but of this matter we have spoke at large in the first part of this Book; but there having left out the Table of Periors and Drakes, I thought good here to insert it.

CHAP. XV. How to make a true Dispart of any true bored Piece of Ordnance.

KNow first, that to dispart a Piece of Ordnance, is no otherwise than to bring the Diameter at Muzzle to be equal to the Diameter at the Base Ring; in true founde [...] Ordnance, half of the Diameter of the Cylender is the dispart; but more generally it may be done thus, Gird the Piece round about the Britch with a thred, after do the like by the Muzzle Ring, lay these two strings streight upon a Table at length, and make two marks for the length of each string; divide the distance between each of these two marks into 22 equal parts with your Compasses, and 7 of them are their Diameters; then measure how much each Diameter is in length, and substract one Diameter from the other, then take the just half of the difference, and that is the true dispart of your Piece in inches, and part of an inch.

But these Diameters are better and more artificially taken with a pair of Crallipars, as we have shewed before in taking the Diameter of a Shot, and then measured upon your Scale of inches and parts, will give you the true Diameters of the Piece both at Britch and Muzzle, with which work as above.

Also you may find the true dispart of a Piece thus; Put a small Wyer or priming Iron in at the Touch-hole of the Piece to the bottom of the Concave; then mind what part of that Iron is even with the Base Ring, and make a mark there; then take it out and apply it to the Muzzle, and place it upon the lower edge of the Concave of [Page 72] the Piece as upright as you can, and mind what part of the Iron or Wyer is even with the upper part of the Muzzle Ring, and there make a mark; for the difference between these two marks, is the true dispart of the Piece: or after you have placed your Iron upon the Muzzle as before, cause a dispart to be raised so high as that mark which was made upon the Iron when 'twas put down the Touch-hole.

If from the top of the dispart a fine thread or line be carried to the Muzzle Ring, you will see how high you may make a dispart at the Trunions.

Or thus a dispart may be made at the Trunions; lay a peece of soft Wax upon the Trunions, and let one raise it high, or depress it, until that the Metal at the top of the Base Ring, the Wax between the Trunions, and the dispart of the Muzzle, be all three of one height precisely; but the former way with a thread is more exact.

A Piece of Ordnance may be disparted thus; take two sticks (each of them must be longer than the Piece) and also make a Plummet of Lead to hang in a small thread made fast to one end of the stick, which lay cross the top of the Base Ring, to and fro, until the Plummet descending from the end thereof, may just touch the side of the Metal of the said Ring; then keeping fast the stick in that place, hang your Plum­met down by the other side of the stick, until it on the otherside just touch the Metal of the Base Ring; when you have done, cut off the stick just in that place by which the Plummet descended, perpendicularly, and this length is the just Diameter of the Base Ring; after this manner you must proceed to take the Diameter at the Muzzle. Then lastly, set these two sticks together even at one end, and mark their difference in length or height; for just half of that difference is the dispart of that Piece.

I would advise all Sea Gunners upon some occasions to use Disparts between the Trunions of their Pieces, made of a just height, on purpose to serve that place, by the method we have even now prescribed, and let them be tyed about the Piece with a twine, because else at every Shot they will be to seek, when upon a suddain they should use them, and they will much avail and stand them in great stead. I could express other wayes, only I think these sufficient.

CHAP. XVI.

SEt your dispart on the Muzzle Ring, just over the Center of the mouth of the Piece, which you may best do by putting a stick cross the bore, and dividing it into two equal parts; then with a Plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Piece, being guided by the divided stick, you shall have good aim where to set your Dispart; this being done, go to the Base Ring, if the Piece be true bored, then find which is the highest part, and middle of that Ring; but if the Piece be not true bored, then find which part of the Base Ring is just over the Cylender, and take that for your true line: when you have found out the dispart, and placed it, and also found what point in the Base Ring is to answer to it, then make some very small mark on the Base Ring in that place, hold your head about two foot from the Base Ring, and there you may best observe, as the Piece is traversing, when you are in a direct line with the mark; this done, give one of your men order to raise and fall the Piece with his Hand-spike as you shall appoint him, until you can, holding your head two foot from the Britch of the Piece, with your eye perceive the mark at the Base Ring, and the top of the dispart in a direct line with the mark you must shoot at; at that instant stop the motion of the Piece with a Coyn, that it may remain as you have directed it; then Prime your Piece, and give fire.

Before you place your Dispart, you are to take notice whether the ground be Level whereon the Wheels of the Gun stand, or if they be not one higher than the other, and if the Trunions stand just over the Axeltree of the Wheels or no; whether one Trunion lye higher on the Carriage than the other: whether the Gun be truely placed in the Carriage or not; that is, that it be not nearer one side than the other: whether the Carriage be truly made according to the direction we have already pre­scribed in the first part; whether the Axeltree be placed just cross the Carriage or not.

CHAP. XVII.

AFter you have made one Shot, and find the Piece carry just over the mark, then do all that has been taught again, and when your Piece lyes directly against the mark, observe how much the last stroak of the Shot is above the mark, so much longer make your dispart, that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the Piece, in a direct line with the stroke of the Shot; when it is of this length, then level your Piece with this new dispart to the assigned mark, Give fire, and without doubt it will strike the same.

If the first Shot strike under the mark, then bring the Piece in all points as before to pass, mark how much of the dispart is over the stroke of the Shot, and cut it just so short, as being at the Britch you may discern the top of it, with the mark on the Base Ring and stroke of the Shot in a just right line, and when you perceive it is of such a length, level the Piece to the assigned mark, as at the first, then Prime and Give fire.

If the first Shot strike on the right hand of the mark, to mend it you must level the Piece as formerly; you standing behind the Britch of the Piece, observe the stroke of the Shot over the dispart, and that part of the Base Ring as you at that instant look over in a right line towards the dispart, and the stroke of the Shot, set up in that place a Pin with a little soft Wax on the Base Ring; so this Pin will be in a right line with the dispart and stroke of the Shot: This being done, level your Piece to the mark assigned by this Pin and the dispart, and without question you will make a fair Shot; for when you level by the Metal of the Base Ring where the Pin is placed, and the mark of the Piece standing at that direction, look over the top of the dispart from the notch in the Base Ring, and you shall find it to lye just so much to the left, as the former Shot struck to the right, from the assigned mark, which should in all likelyhood now strike the mark.

But if a Shot be both too wide and too low, then you must use both the directions above taught, to make the next Shot: first regulate the dispart by cutting it shorter, according as the Shots mark is lower than the assigned mark; when this is done, then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide, and these things performed with care and diligence, cannot choose but mend a bad Shot.

CHAP. XVIII.

FOr the effecting of this matter, we must have a Quadrant with a Thread and Plummet (which is described in the first Chapter of this second Section) to one side of this Quadrant; so that one end of the Ruler may go into the Cavity of the Piece, and let a Piece of Lead be fastned to the end of the Rule, to make it lye close to the bottom of the Metal within, the Quadrant hanging without, and the Plumb-line swaying or hanging down from the Center of the Quadrant, perpendicular to the Ho­rizontal line; for the Quadrant being thus placed, you may mount a Piece to what degree you shall find fit to shoot by.

Now every one that will learn to shoot at Random, must draw his Piece on a level ground, where first shooting level, he must observe that distance in feet or paces, then mount his Piece to one degree, and mark where that shall graze; thus finding the distance of every degree from the level to the tenth degree, by these distances make a Table, to which annex the degrees against the distance; by which Table you may (using the Art of Proportions) find how far another Piece will convey her Shot from degree to degree, and in Loading your Piece for this work you must have your Powder exactly weighed, and likewise the Wad, and let the Piece cool of it self, and this you must do every time; and if the Piece be mounted, there needs no Wad after the Shot; also you must have a special care of the strength of the Powder, and let the Powder equally, and with the same force and strength be pressed home, as near as possible you may.

CHAP. XIX.

HE that intends to be expert at these things, ought principally to endeavour, at one time or another, to obtain so much liberty of his Superior Comman­ders, as to make two, three, or more Shot with the Piece he chooseth, or intends for most Service; then must he measure the distance from the Platform to the first graze of the Shot; and must apply it to the Table, which I have here inserted, being the expe­rience of such as have been knowing Gunners. But first I shall set down Mr. Nye of Worcester's Experiment, not as he is Mathematician, as he writes himself (which Title none of our Learned Mathematicians of England do assume) but as he was a Practical Gunner, and made these several experiments upon four several degrees of Mounture, viz. 1 deg. 5 deg. 7 deg. 10 deg. from thence was found these Randoms.

At 1 degree, the Shot did light from the Piece or place of standing 225 paces.

At 5 degrees, the Random was 416 paces.

At 7 degrees, the Random was 505 paces.

At 10 degrees the Random was 630 paces.

And by these Experiments a Table may be framed according to this Rule. As the known degree of Mounture, is to the number of paces the Piece carries; so is the number of degrees proposed, to the distance required.

The use of this Table will plainly appear in one onely Example.

Suppose you make tryal of your Piece of Ordnance, ac­cording to the method prescribed in the last Chapter, and find that at 6 degrees of Random upon a level ground, the Shot is conveyed 619 paces, and you are to ply your Piece against a place which lyes beyond the point blank, the di­stance being 498 paces, to know the degree the Piece must be elevated too, do thus; in this Table of Randoms against 6 degrees, there is 461 paces; then say as 619 paces is to 461, so is 498 to 375; which number, or the nearest to being sought, in this Table is 370, and stands against 4 degrees, but because it is not exactly the same number, you must find out the part of a degree or minute, by a Table of proportio­nal parts; but if the mark you shoot at be lower or higher than your Platformer, then you must add or substract so many degrees or minutes from the degrees and minutes found, and the remainder is the degree you ought to mount your Piece to.

Now that we may be understood well, we must know that there are two sorts of Ranges or Motions of a Shot, of which you may see more in Chap. 20. the one is called the Right Range, and the other is termed the Curved or Crooked Range, and these two there termed a Compound Range, is called the Dead Range, that is to say, the whole distance from your Platform from whence the Shot was made, to the place where the Bullet first grazes; yet the perpendicular descending of the Bullet is also called the Natural motion, as you may see by the figure hereafter placed. Captain Hexham in his Book of Gunnery, shews how by finding out the Random of a Cannon for the first degree of Mounture to find the Random for every degree to 45 de­grees, which is the utmost Random, after this manner; First, find out how many paces the Cannon will shoot, being laid level by the Metal (which he accounts for one degree of Mounture) divide this distance by 50, then multiply the Quotient by 11, and that will bring out the number of the greatest digression or difference between Range and Range, which being divided by 44, the Quotient will shew the number of paces which the Bullet will loose in the other Ranges from degree to degree. Example. A Battering Cannon being laid by the Metal, will shoot his Bullet (as he saith) 1000 ordinary paces, two foot and a half to each pace; which being divided by 50, the Quotient will be 20, which multiplyed by 11, is 220 paces, which is the number of the next digression made in the second degree: which 220 divide by 44, the number of the remaining degrees yields 5, which is the number of paces to be diminished in each degree; and by this Rule this Table is framed.

But this Table of Alexander Bianco for all sorts of Ordnance, I do account as one of the best.

The use of this Table is thus; having resolved upon what point of Mounture, look in this Table for the name of the Piece, and right under that point against the name of the Piece, that is in the common Angle, you shall find the number of paces of her Random sought.

CHAP. XX.

THe right Range of every Piece being discharged in a level, or parallel to the Horizon, is allowed by some not to exceed 185 paces, that is 5 foot to a pace, yet some reckon much more, but then they account ordinary steps or paces of two foot and a half; and Batteries made with such Pieces are usually made at 100 or 120 such paces, at which distance they do the best execution.

The utmost Random likewise of any Piece that is from the Platform to the first graze of the Bullet, I find by some to be about ten times the distance of the right Range; and accordingly I have so set it down in the Table.

As for the Ranges to the other degrees and points of the Quadrant, I find these Tables in Good Authors.

This Table is rather proportio­nal than real, and doth best agree with greater Ordnance; but by help of it, working by the Rule of proportion, you may know the Random of any Piece of Ordnance; by first (as we have said before) making one Shot, and measuring from your Platform that distance. You may make a Table for your Piece thus,

Suppose a Saker being mounted to 5 degrees, shoot the Bullet 416 paces, how far will it shoot being mounted 10 degrees?

As 722 the Tabular distance for 5 degrees of Mounture, is to 416 paces the distance found,

So is the Tabular distance for 10 degrees of Mounture, 1214. to the distance required, which will be found to be 699, 5 paces.

Now if you desire to know how much of the Horizontal line, is contained directly under the right line of any Shot, called the right Range, made out of any Piece at any elevation.

First, know that in plain Triangles, the violent motion or right line of a Shot is supposed to be the Hypothenusal, the Angle of Mounture to be the Angle at Base; these are given, and the Horizontal line is the Base which is to be found; there the proportion will run thus;

As the Radius 90 deg. is to the number of paces in a right Range;

So is the Sine Complement of the Angle of Mounture, to the Horizontal Base, or the right line which lyes parallel to the Horizon under the way of the Shot.

CHAP. XXI.

BY the third and fourth propositions of the second Book of Tartagilia, his Nova Scientia, he sheweth that every body equally heavy, as a Shot in the end of the violent motion thereof, being discharged out of a Piece of Ordnance, so it be not right up or right down, the curved Range shall joyn with the right Range, and to the natural course and motion betwixt them both, which distinct motions you may see in the last foregoing figure.

In the 17 proposition of the same Book, he proveth that every Shot equally heavy, great or little, equally elevated above the Horizon, or equally oblique or level di­rected, are among themselves like, and proportional in their distance, as the figure following sheweth, as A E F is like and proportional in right and crooked Ranges unto H I, and in their distances or dead Ranges A F unto A I.

And in his 4th and 6th propositions of the same Book, he proveth that every Shot made upon the level hath the mixt or crooked Range thereof equal to the Arch of a Quadrant 90 degrees; and if it be made upon an elevation above the level, that then it will make the crooked Range to be more than a Quadrant: And if that be made imbased under the level, that then the crooked Range thereof will be a Quadrant.

And in his 9th proposition of the same Book, he shews, that if one Piece be Shot off twice, the one level, and the other at the best of her Random at 42 ½ deg. Mounture, that the right Range of the length is but the ½ of the dead range of the best Random. He that desires a further Demonstration of these Propositions, may peruse his said second Book de Nova Scientia.

CHAP. XXII.

BEcause the Quadrant cannot be conveniently used at all times, especially when the wind blows hard, and, being near the Enemies Guns, the Plumb-line is too long before it stands still; to remedy this, the Gunners Rule was invented, the figure hereof is as followeth; it must be 12 or 14 inches long, according as the Gun will require, it must have a long slit down the middle thereof like the Eye-Vane of a Quadrant or back Staff, the head thereof make circular or a little hollow, as you see in the figure the Instrument is described standing, at 'tis to be placed upon the Britch of a Piece of Ordnance; in the middle of the small narrow slit you must place a Lute string or a well twisted Silk with a Bead running upon the same to be set to any number of inches and parts, or to such a degree of the Quadrant, as you must mount your Gun unto; and on the one side of the slit you must place a division of inches, and let every inch be divided into 10 parts, and then it will serve for all sorts of Guns; but if it be for a particular Gun, then on the other side you may place the degrees and parts, when you shall find by the length of your Piece, how many inches and parts of an inch goes to a degree; but to use it with all sorts of Ordnance, let it only be divided into inches and parts.

To fit this Rule for one Gun only, here is the Rule for the decimation of the degrees; note, this Table hath 11 Columns, the first shews the length of the Piece in feet and half feet, the other 10 Columns in the head are 10 degrees, and under is inches and the 100 parts of an inch, from 1 degree to 10 degrees; and so you may take them out of the Table, and put them on your Ruler.

The use of this Table in graduating the Rule is very plain; for if your Piece of Ordnance be 8 foot long, and you would mount your Piece two degrees, seek for 8 foot under the title length of the Piece, and in the common Angle against the length of the Piece under two degrees you will find 3, 36, to make a degree; that is 3 inches and 36 parts of an inch, divided into 100 parts, and to this you may set your Bead.

The use of the graduated Rule is thus: having loaded your Piece, and brought your Piece of Ordnance in a right line with your mark, the dispart being placed upon the Muzzle Ring, in like manner place your Rule upon the Base Ring, and let one standing by hold it, for the foot of it let it be fitted round to the Gun; so you may be sure to place it right, and you may estimate on its perpendicular well enough; now having before the distance to the mark you intend to shoot at, and admit you have found it to be 461 paces, and the first Shot you made for practice out of that Piece conveyed her Shot at two degrees of Mounture 274 paces; then by our former Rules and the Tables of Randoms, there I find 461 against 6 degrees, which is the degrees I must mount my Piece to reach 461 paces.

Then to find by this Table how many inches and hundred parts of an inch 6 degrees will require, look in the Table above, and find on the left hand in the first Column the length of the Piece, and just under the degrees (as is aforesaid) you shall find the inches and parts of Mounture, to which set your Bead on your string, that is in the sight, to so many inches and parts as the Table gives; then mount the Piece higher or lower, until you bring the Bead to the top of the dispart and mark, all in one line; stop then the Piece in such a position with a Coyn, then prime and give fire.

If you will shoot by the Metal of the Piece without a dispart, then subtract the height of the dispart out of the inches found by the Table, and to the remainder mount your Piece.

If you have no Quadrant nor a Ruler, and would make a good Shot, look in the Table, and find the length of the Piece and the inches that you ought to raise your Piece unto, then cut a peece of stick just of that length, and set it upon the Base Ring, and bring the top of that stick, the top of the dispart, and the mark, all in a right line with your eye, and you will make as good a Shot as if you had a Rule and Bead, or Quadrant.

If you will have no dispart, take your dispart and measure it upon the aforesaid stick at the Base Ring, and from it cut off the length of the dispart, and the remainder use upon the Base Ring.

But if the Mounture should be so small that the inches of the dispart should be more than the inches answerable to the degrees of Mounture; then cut off from the dispart so much as 'tis longer than the other, and place it upon the Muzzle Ring, and bring the upper part of the Base Ring, the dispart, and mark, in a right line with your Eye, and you will this way make a level with a stick without Instrument, as well as if you had Ruler or Quadrant.

CHAP. XXIII.

TO shoot by night at the Enemies Lights, dispart your Piece with a lighted and flaming Wax Candle, or with a lighted Piece of Match, that with your Eye you may bring the Base Ring, the fired Match on the Muzzle Ring, and the Enemies Light, in a right line, or mark; then give fire, and you will make a good Shot.

If you make a Shot at a Company of Horse passing by, take a Piece that will reach the way the Horse or Foot are coming in a right line, then let your Gun be so loaded with Powder as it may presently take fire, and let your Shot be fit for your use; then take notice of some Hillock or some turning cross way for the mark, and when the Enemy comes near to that way in a right line with your Gun, give fire; but for shoot­ing at a Ship upon the River, you must put your Piece to some eminent mark on the other side of the River, and when the Head of the Ship shall begin to be between the Piece and the mark, then give fire.

But if by some mischievous accident a Shot is lodged in the concavity of a Piece, and there sticks, and will not go home to the Powder, or come out; then the Gunner, to save his Piece from breaking, must imbase the mouth of the Piece, or put it under the line of level, then put in at the Touch-hole fair warm water at several times, so that it may run out at Muzzle or Mouth of the Piece; and when all the Salt-Peter is washed from the Powder, which is known by the taste of the Water, then let the Gunner clear the Touch-hole, and put in as much Powder as possible he can, and prime and give fire, and it will serve to draw out the Shot.

But when a Shot hath lain long in a Piece until he is grown rusty, and so sticks fast, put strong Vinegar warm into the mouth of the Piece, and with the Rammer strike the Shot until it doth move; then put in Vinegar until it run clear through the Powder and Shot; prime as before, and give fire with good Powder, and if it do not run through after it hath stood three dayes, clear the Touch-hole, prime and give fire.

A man may also shoot farther than ordinary in one and the self same Piece, if the Powder be gently driven home, and wadded accordingly; then the Shot being com­passed with Paper, Leather, Oakam, or such like, to fill close to the Powder with a good Wadd, putting after it a Tampion of Cork, and with a Spunge moisten it with Oyl, annoint the vacant Cylender, and so Barricado the Piece that it may not reverse in the Discharge.

CHAP. XXIV.

HAving brought your Approaches near unto a Town or a Fortress, whe­ther would you choose a Bulwark or a Curtain to be battered with your Ordnance?

A Town may be assaulted in divers places; sometimes you assault one side, when as you make your Battery on another; sometimes you choose a Bulwark, other­whiles a Curtain to be battered, with this intention, to take in the Town as soon as possible may be. As for me, if I were to take in a great Town which is populous, I had rather choose to batter a Curtain, than a Bulwark, which hath a high catt, or mount upon it: especially, seeing that in great Towns the Bulwarks lying one far from another, they do show the skirt of the Curtain very open.

Why would you rather choose a Curtain than a Bulwark?

Because your Bulwarks are alwayes stronger, and better fortified than your Curtain, and being it is the principal strength of a place, and better furnished with Platforms, [...]lanks, &c. it will require more time, labour, and charge to batter, than your Curtain.

But what General is so ill experienced, as to labour to batter a Curtain, having two strong Bulwarks on both sides of him, to flanker him when he is to put over his Gallery, and to give an assault upon the Curtain: peradventure for his labour and pains, he may be well beaten.

Soft (Good Sir,) Suppose that after a great deal of labour and pains you have battered a Bulwark, and falling up to the breach to assault it, you find it cut off, an Enemy lodged in it, must you not then begin to sap forward again, to make a new batte­ry? whereas on a Curtain there is not that means of cutting it off, as upon a large Bulwark.

Have you ever seen the experience of it?

Yes Sir, the Prince of Orange took in the Bosch by a Bulwark, and also Breda, but Mastrick was taken in by making a breach, and springing of a mine, upon the Curtain between Jonger Port and a Bulwark; howsoever the Town of Cortes upon the frontiers of France, was first battered by the Arch-duke of Austria upon the point of a Bulwark, near unto the very joynt of the Curtain, where a high and a strong turret stood, which did annoy us much, so that we could not advance forward, but were constrained to leave off our approach on that side, and began to make a new Battery for a breach in a Curtain on the Field-side, where there lay a strong Bulwark to defend it, which did our men a great deal of harm; but howsoever, with great difficulty and much ado, we took in the Town that way, by lodging our selves in the Curtain. Likewise the City of Cambray was battered, and taken in upon a Curtain, for all there were two strong Bulwarks that flankered it, which if we had run our line upon a Bulwark, we should not have forced it so soon; yea such an occasion might present it self, that a Ge­neral may be forced to batter both the one and the other, or to find out some secret way by undermining a wall, and blowing it up with powder.

This is for your great Towns; but what say you to a Castle, a Cittadel, or some narrow Fortress, how will you go to work to take in those with the best ad­vantage?

As for your Forts, and Castles, it is much better to batter them upon a mount or a Bulwark, than upon a Curtain: my reason is this, that in these your Bulwarks lying close one by another, will flank one another with the greater force, and hide the Curtain much better to defend it, so that one cannot so easily force it, if the said de­fenses be not taken away.

Go to then; a Town then being to be battered, either upon a Curtain or a Bulwark, how many Pieces of Ordnance would you have to do it, and, how and in what manner would you place, and plant your Ordnance upon your batteries to make a good breach?

To effect this, I would have 18 Pieces of Canon and half Canon, (for lesser Pieces for Battery are now grown out of use.)

Whether would you choose more whole Canon or half Canon?

To batter a place well either upon a stony or earthy wall, you may assure your self, the more whole Cannon you have, the greater and the more sufficient your breach will be: for your great battering Pieces do spoil and beat down any thing, which doth meet with their great force and violence: Howsoever of late years expe­rience hath taught at divers Seiges that your half Canon which are more portable, having good store of them, will do the business aswell as your whole Canon.

But at what distance would you make your Batteries, for these 18 Pieces of Canon, and how near unto the place, which you intend to Batter.

I would counsel a General to approach as near unto that place as possible may be, and make his Batteries some two or three hundred paces one from another, and that if it were possible to advance covertly the Approach and sap, even up to the Counter-scharfe, and very brink of the Moat, to prepare a way for his Gallery: not only to Batter that place being at hand with the greater force, but also to keep in, and hinder an Enemy from Sallying out upon the Besiegers, to discover and dismount their Ordnance in Casemates, or if they have sunk any in their Walls or False-bray, and so to terrifie them, that they dare not stir out.

I am also of your opinion, and hold it for good, yet I fear this will not be so soon done, and is sooner spoken, than executed, and that before you can bring your approach and sap so far, it will cost you warm blood, and a great many mens lives, if you have a stout Enemy within to deal withal, and one that is very Vigilant, and careful to stand upon his Guard, and his defence.

'Tis true, this cannot be done without danger, and the loss of men, but he that is fearful must stay at home, and not come into the Wars where there is neither place nor time, which doth free or exempt him from danger: yet the danger is not alwayes so great, especially in such places, where you have Earth enough to work with, to cast up your sapps, and to heighten and deepen your Approaches, which will show you the way, for the more higher you find the ground in Approaching to the edge of the moat, the deeper Trenches you may make, and cover your self by casting up of blinds continually, to keep you from the sight of the Besieged; and it is better, when you have brought your approach as it were under them, than if you were 200 or 300 paces distant from them.

I pray you Good Sir, how would you plant, and divide these 18 Pieces of Canon?

I would make a great Battery with 8 of them to beat upon a right line, either upon a Curtain, or the point of a Bulwark (which the General shall find fittest) Two Batteries with each 3 Canon to play slope-wise from the great Battery; as the ninth plate and 28 and 29 figures shows, and two Batteries, with two half Canon a Piece, to play as it were cross-wise upon the breach. And thus you see your 18 Pieces planted upon 5 Batteries, as you may observe in the 9th. Plate, and the two Figures of a Curtain and of a Bulwark following.

Good Sir tell me I pray you how many shot will these 18 Pieces of Canon make in 10 hours, and how much powder will they require.

In 10 hours they may make some 1500 shot, and will require a matter of 25000 pound weight of powder, that is 150 barrels full, each barrel containing 160 pound weight in it.

You make your account then that every Piece in the space of 10 hours is to shoot 80 shot, that is 8 shot an hour for every Piece.

You may make 10 shot in an hour if you please, if your Pieces be renforced; but as for your ordinary Pieces, they have not metalline substance enough to bear it: considering also that after you have made 40 shot out of a Piece, it will be so heated, that it must have a cooling time, which must be at least an hour, for otherwise your Piece being grown over hot, it may cause danger.

Methinks that 80 shot for a Piece in so long a time were too little, having often heard, that in that while, a Piece may well be shot off 130 times; can you give me your resolution upon this?

I will tell you Sir what hapned once in the Island of Bomble, Anno 1599. we planted a Piece by a mill, by which we did annoy the Enemy very much, so that they were forced to make a Battery, and planted a whole Canon, and a demy-Canon upon it, seeking to dismount ours. Now shooting with this Piece from four of the clock in the morning, till eleven toward noon, this Piece had a cooling time the space of two hours, and about one of the clock we began to play with it again, and continued shooting with it till 4 a clock in the afternoon; but this Piece being not able to endure the force and heating of so many shot, we were constrained to leave off with it: and yet ceased not shooting with our other Pieces from another Battery by command from Don Lewes de Valasco, General of our Ordnance, and shooting cross-wise with some other of our Pieces, we put the Enemies two Pieces to silence in the space of an hour; a Souldier of ours standing by, was curious to keep a tally of the number of all the shot we made from the morning till four a clock in the afternoon, and shewed me 80 notches, which deducting the two hours cooling, our Piece planted at the Mill made 8 shot in an hour, which was as much as could be required of it.

(Good Sir) I pray show me how you would batter the point of a Bulwark (as the figure 28 following demonstrates,) and give me some reasons aswel defensive as offensive.

I am willing to give your Lordship content, and say, If I were to batter the point of a Bulwark or a Bastion, I would have the same number of battering Canon, and planted in the same form and manner as they were for the Curtain, and to shoot sloap and cross-wise also; and if your approaches were advanced so far, they should be planted upon the very brink of the moat and upon the Counterscharfe, I would plant 4 of them so, that they should dismount the Enemies Canon in their Casemates, or any, if they had sunk them in their Falsebray, which should wait upon that occasion.

I am of your mind, and prefer such a battery before all others, who are of the opinion that they had rather choose a Curtain than a Bulwark to be battered.

You have heard my reasons for that, and see the figures following traced out to you. But as for your Bulwark the besieged may cut it off (as you may mark in the figures of Retrenchments and Cuttings off in the second part of this book) for indeed it will be a hard matter to force an Enemy out of a Bulwark, who is resolved to loose it by peecemeal and degrees; and there is not so much danger in assaulting of a Curtain, which being once well battered and beaten down with your Ordnance, you have an easier way and entrance to fall on with your Troops of men, to enter the Town or Fortress; but for the defence which is made from your Flanking Bul­warks, or your Casemates, you must make Batteries upon the brink of the moat against them, (as is said) to dismount the Enemies Pieces, and to flanker with your Ordnance the Parapets of the Bulworks to beat them about their ears, that the Bul­works may lye the more open to you, and I think this way is the least danger.

But the Besieged, their cuttings off, may they not be made aswel upon a Cur­tain as upon a Bulwark.

No, for the Rampire being thinner, you have neither so much ground, nor the like accommodation in a Curtain as in a Bulwark; and indeed, a Governour [Page 86] of a Town, or of a Fortress, if he were put to his choice, had rather to be assaulted on a Bulwark (than on a Curtain) by cutting it off into the form of a half moon, that he might make a new resistance, and defend it with a less number of men. Besides, in a Bulwark the Besieged have this advantage over the Assailants, which is very dangerous for them, that they may make a Mine within the bowels of their Bulwark when an Enemy shall attempt to assault it, and thinking to enter the Breach and take the Town, they may be blown up into the Air by a Countermine; the like also may happen to the Besieged, the Assailants springing their Mine also in a Bulwark, when they think they stand upon their best defence.

May not the like be done also in a Curtain?

No, it will not take the like effect as in a Bulwark; for a Breach being once made in a Curtain, for as an Enemy may assault it at large, so they may bring a greater number of men to fight, to help to defend it; whereas in a Bulwark they are pen'd up and straightned in a narrow place, which may be cut off, and will require a fewer number of men to defend it, whereas those which are to force it, must be constrained to bring up a great many men to assault, who in an instant may be in danger of blowing up.

Your reasons (Good Captain) are not to be slighted; but as for me, I hold it safer, to batter and assault the breach of a Bulwark, than of a Curtain. For though the besieged may cut it off, and defend it with a fewer number of men, yet the Assaulters have this advantae over the Besieged defendants, that they have more place and elbow room, and may find a less resistance than in a Curtain, seeing that one may make as a great a breach in a Bulwark as in a Curtain, because your Ordnance may beat it flat, and level with the ground; and choosing rather a Bulwark: I will herewith conclude this discourse, and now shew you the figures both of the one, and of the other in this following plate.

CHAP. XXV.

YOur great and small Morters, are not only serviceable in a War offensive, by shooting and casting of great Granadoes, as of 100, 150, 170 pound weight, and smaller of 40, and 50 pound; but also by casting of Fire-balls, Stones, old Rubbidge, and Pieces of Iron, into Cities, Towns, and Fortresses; and may be used also defensively, to be shot from Towns and Forts into any Enemies works, and approaches; especially they are of singular use, when an Enemy hath covertly ap­proached, and lodged himself under some Bulwark, Tower, or Turret, and is a be­ginning to undermine them; which if they do, you may plant one of these Morters at a reasonable distance, on the inside of your Wall, and shooting your Granado, as it were bolt upright into the air, by its natural fall, it may light just into the Ene­mies works, and there with great violence breaking among them, it will make them cry, fly, and forsake the place; you may also fire them out of a place, by casting good store of Hand Granadoes down among them, and so annoy them, that the work will be too hot for them.

Two of these Morters are represented unto you, in the Plate and Figures follow­ing number. Now for the shooting a way of your great Granadoes or Fireballs, you must ever remember, but to take ⅕ or 1/7 parts of fine Powder of the weight of your [Page] [Page 87] Granado or thing which you shoot; but if you are to shoot away a Bullet without any Fire-works in it, or some massie stone, or such like solid thing, then you must take but half the weight of it in fine Powder, which, having given fire to the Morter, will send it going merrily.

The use of them is not to shoot in a right line, as other Ordnance do, but in an oblique line, as you may see by the two Figures following, unless your Morter be mounted to 90 degrees, mounting them usually above 45 degrees, namely to 60, 70, 80, and sometimes more or less, as the distance and fall of your Granado or Shot shall require.

Having before shown you the making and use of the Quadrant, it remains now that I come to the charging and use of a Morter; now before you put in your Pow­der. it must be well sponged and cleared, whether you charge it with loose Powder, or Cartouch, turning the mouth almost bolt upright; the Powder being put into the Chamber, you must stop it with a Wadd either of Hay or Oakam, and after a Tampkin of some soft wood, and this with the Powder that was put in first, it must fill up the whole Chamber thereof, that there may be no vacuity between the Powder and the Wadd, or between the Wadd and the Shot; this done, the shot shall be put in at the mouth, with another Wadd after it; but you must have a care that your Morter be not much mounted, lest your shot flyes out too soon, and the Wadd between the Tampkin and the shot will not only save the shot from the Tampkins breaking of it, but also is to avoid vacuities which may endanger the breaking of the Piece by second expansions.

Now then having resolved of the premisses, touching your Piece, Shot, and Powder, as abovesaid, and upon the distance and mounture of your mark, as the Rules and Tables following shall direct you, then for the bending and disposing of it to the assigned mark; lay first a straight Ruler upon the Mouth of your Morter, and upon it place a Quadrant (as you may see by the Figures) or some other Instrument cross-wise, to set the Morter upright, for shuning of wide shooting, and then placing them fore-right to elevate it into the resolved degree of Mounture, to avoid short or overshooting, accordingly as the Tables following will teach you; for having made one shot, you may thereby proportion the rest, considering whether you are to shoot with or against the wind, or whether it blows towards the right or the left hand, whether weakly or strongly, and so accordingly to give or abate the advan­tage, or disadvantage, which judgment and discretion will induce you thereunto, and the help of the Rules following.

Now we will come to the use of a Morter, and that in this example following; Suppose an Enemy be approached to the Basis, or foot of a Wall or a Bulwark, and there is a rooting, and begins to make a Mine, and having Chambred his Powder, intends to blow it up, and that there is no other means left you, to repulse and hinder their egress and regress into it; but by shooting out of your Morters some Granadoes, Fire-Balls, Stones, and Rubbish among them, or at least by casting many Hand-Granadoes down upon them. To do this either by force or policy, it behoveth a good Canonier or Fire-worker, to know first (as hath been taught) how far his Morter will carry a Granado, or any solid thing else, which shall be shot out of it, being set upon such and such a degree and elevation as the Morter Figure will shew you. As for Example, take your aim level with the mould or mouth of your Morter, noted A upon the Quadrant, and it will carry 200 paces, where you see the Granado falls upon the letter A; but your morter being elevated to the mark B, it then will carry its Bullet 487 paces; if to the second C, then 755 paces; if to the third D, it will carry 937 paces; if to the fourth E, then 1065 paces; if to the fifth elevation F, then 1132 paces; if to the sixth G, which is in the midst of the Quadrant, and lyes then upon its highest elevation, it will carry 1170 paces, as you may see by the several falls of the Bullets upon every Letter. The second Figure shews you a Morter casting a Granado upon a Castle, as you may see by the Example.

CHAP. I.

CHAP. II.

TAke Benjamin a certain quantity of ounces, put it into a Gourd or a Limbeck glass, and close it well with a blind head (as they call it) then have in readi­ness an earthen vessel, set it upon a Tresfoot, or for the more certainty upon a small Furnace, place it in your glass body, and compass it well about with fine Sand or a­shes so high as the matter is in the glass; after make a moderate fire under it, for fear the Limbeck heat too soon, and be too hot, for that will make the flowers become citrine or yellow, when they ought to be as white as Snow. Observe when you see the flowers begin to raise a vapour or small fume, continue your fire in that same de­gree the space of one quarter of an hour; after you shall see the flowers risen unto the internal Superficies of the blind head, then take it away carefully, and put to it another that shall be quite cold, and put that which you have taken off upon a white paper until it be cold, then gently with a Feather or wooden Spatula, cause the flow­ers to come forth of the blind head, and gather them together carefully: thus you may add a third or fourth blind head, and in time many, until all the Benjamin cease to fume.

Benjamin may be made into flowers another way, thus; put into a glazed pot a certain quantity of ounces of Benjamin, and place it upon warm ashes, and when you see it begin to fume, cover the vessel with a Cornet of paper made in the form of a Cone, and a little larger than the orifice of the pot, leave it there about one quar­ter of an hour, after take off the Cornet, and take the flowers and gather them to­gether; then put upon the vessel another Cornet of paper, and let it stand as long as before; take it off, and gather the flowers to the former, and continue thus putting Cornet after Cornet, until your flowers be entirely evaporated.

CHAP. III.

TAke Juniper Gumm (which is called somtimes) Sandarach, white varnish, or Mastick most subtilly powdered 2 l. white distilled vinegar as much as is necessa­ry to cover the Gumm in a glass, set it deep in horse-dung the space of 20 days; then take it and pour it forth into another glass Vessel with a wide mouth, and let it stand thus in digestion a whole moneth, and in it you shall have Camphire congealed in form of a Crust of bread, and which hath in some measure the resemblance of the ver [...]a­ble or true Camphire. The Camphire hath such a love for the fire, that being once lighted, it goeth not out until it be quite consumed. The flame that comes from thence is very clear, and of a very agreeable odour; after it hath remained suspen­ded in the air some time it vanisheth insensibly. The cause that produceth all these rare effects from Camphire, is by reason its parts are extream subtil and airy.

I do add to all this, that it may be easie to reduce Camphire into Powder, to make it useful in artificial fireworks, if a man crumbles it and beats it gently, rouling it with Sulphur. The oyl of Camphire, which serves also for the same effect, is made by ad­ding a little of oyl of sweet Almonds, and stir them well together in a brass Morter, and pestle of the same metal, until all be converted into oyl of a greenish colour.

Or a man may put it into a Glass Viol which must be close stopped, provided also that the Camphire be true and natural, and not a Cheat; then put that Glass into a warm Furnace, and draw it out, when you shall see all the Camphire turned into a pure clear oyl, which will burn with an admirable vivacity.

CHAP. IV.

TAke Sal-armoniac 3 ounces, Salt-Peter 1 ounce, reduce them into a most subtil Powder, and mix them well together, after put them into a Limbeck, and then pouring on them some of the best and strongest Vinegar, you may distil the same into a water with a small fire.

CHAP. V.

TAke Oleum Petroli, and of Terebinthi, and of Calx vive, of Mutton fat, and of Hogs Lard, of each equal parts, beat them well together, until they be well in­corporated, then cause them to be distilled in warm ashes, or upon burning coals, and you shall draw from thence an excellent oyl.

CHAP. VI.

TAke of the oldest and greatest Toad-stools which grows at the Root of Ash, Oak, Birch, and Fir-tree, with many other Trees which produce them freely; get a good parcel, string them, and hang them in the Chimney, and leave them to macerate; being well mortified and macerated, take and cut them in pieces, and then beat them with a wooden Mallet; this done, boyl them over a small fire in a strong Lye, and a sufficient quantity of Salt-Peter, until all the humidity be evaporated: At last, having put them upon a Plank or even board, put them in a warm Oven, and let them well dry there; having drawn them from thence, you must beat them with a wooden Mallet as before, until it become wholly subtile and soft; being thus prepared, you must keep them in a commodious place to serve you upon occasion.

CHAP. VII.

MAke Cords of Tow, Hemp, or Cotton, which you please, of two or three twists, not made too hard, put them in a new Earthen pot Vernished, pour upon them Vinegar made of good white Wine four parts, of Urine two parts, of Aqua vitae one part, of Salt Peter purified one part, of Cannon Powder reduced to Meal one part: Make all these Ingredients boyl together upon a great Fire, to the Con­sumption of all the Liquor; then spread upon a great smooth Plank or Board, the Meal or Flower of the most excellentest Powder that you can get. Having drawn your Match out of the Pot, roul them in the Powder, and then dry them in the shade or Sun, for it matters not which, and the Cords or Match that are thus prepared will burn very quick.