CHAP. 1.

SOme Italians have declared, That Archimedes the Phi­losopher was the first In­ventor of Guns and Gun­powder; for Valturus de­clareth in the tenth book of Warfare, That Archimedes used a cer­tain kinde of Engine made of Iron, out of which he shot against an Army upon the land (with an incredible noise) stones of great weight and bigness; which Relation makes us believe, That it was an Engine like unto a Gun: But whether this be true, or not, is doubted, for learned men are of [Page 2] divers mindes: Munster and Gilbert Cog­not have written, That Guns were devised first in the year of our Lord 1370 by a Monk, whom Munster calleth Bertholdus Sthwarts: Mr. Dee our Countrey-man in his Mathematical Preface and Discourse of Menadre, saith, That an English-man was the first Inventor of Gunpowder, though his said invention in another land, and by other men, was first executed: Also our English Chronicles do report, That in the year 1380, a Monk did unwillingly let fall a spark of fire upon Brimstone and Saltpeter, beaten to powder, in a Morter, covered with a flat stone; he seeing this mixture blow off the stone from the Mor­ter, did thereupon devise a kinde of Pow­der, and taught the Venetians to use the same in Iron pipes against the Genuates.

CHAP. 2.

POwder was always made of Saltpeter, Brimstone and Charcole; although some Authors have counselled to adde to the said materials, Quicksilver, to make it more strong: others advise us to use Aqua­vitae; some would have us adde thereto some Armoniack; some bid us put there­unto Camphir; some make Gunpowder with the coals of Bulrushes, and divers other ways, which I will not set down: But I will here shew you the making of Gunpowder from time to time, as it was collected from such Authors as lived ei­ther one or two hundred years since; by which you may gather, how that Gun­powder hath still mended, and grown to great perfection since the first inven­tion.

[Page 4]The making of Gunpowder after the most ancient maner, Anno 1380.

• Saltpeter one part.
• Brimstone one part.
• Charcole one part.

The making of Gunpowder, as Authors teach, about the year 1410.

• Saltpeter three parts.
• Brimstone two parts.
• Charcole two parts.

The making of Gunpowder, as it was made in the year 1480.

• Saltpeter eight parts.
• Brimstone three parts.
• Charcole three parts.

The making of the best Powder about the year 1520.

• Saltpeter four parts.
• Charcole one part.
• Brimstone one part.

[Page 5]The best sort as is made now at this pre­sent.

• Saltpeter six parts.
• Brimstone one part.
• Charcole one part.

The Musket Powder is now commonly made of Saltpeter five parts, one part of Brimstone, and one of Cole; and Canon Powder of Saltpeter four times so much as of Brimstone and as of Cole.

CHAP. 3.

IT is certain, that the best Powder would be that in which is most Saltpeter, if a [Page 6] smaller quantity of Sulpher and Cole, then but once so much of either of them, as to be one sixt part to the quantity of Peter, might serve; which composition I will call 6—1—1, meaning six times so much Peter, as one time Sulpher, and one time Cole. But lesse Sulpher and Cole, as 7— 1—1, the Sulpher and Cole are not able to perform and execute the office as they ought to do; that is to say, to be on fire quickly, and set the Saltpeter on fire, and to maintain the same fire, until it be wholly resolved into fire; therefore no more Sulpher and Cole to so much Peter, would be to little pur­pose: Certainly if Gunpowder were only made of Peter, that would be more strong then Powder made of Peter, Cole and Brimstone; but because the said Peter is not apt to burn in a flame quickly, as Brim­stone will do, nor maintain the flame until all is consumed, as Cole will do, there­fore it is needful to adde Sulpher and Cole thereunto, and onely such a quantity as will just serve turn: In Powder 5—1—1, by experience is found more Sulpher and Cole then needeth; yet it is good not only to make Powder of 5—1—1, which is [Page 7] Musket Powder, but also of 4—1—1, which serveth best for great Ordnance. Now the reason why this last sort should serve better for Ordnance, then Pistol Powder of 6—1—1, which is the strongest of all, I will shew in the next Chapter.

CHAP. 4.

THe reason why Canon Powder is best for Ordnance, is because it taketh up a greater room in the Cylinder of the Piece, then Pistol Powder; for in taking up much room, it hath the greater fortification of Mettal about it, to keep it from breaking the Piece: Suppose a Saker requireth four pound of great Powder for her loading, and I would know how much Pistol pow­der is equal in strength to four pound of [Page 8] Canon powder, trying by an Engine made of purpose to try powder, I finde three pound to be of like force: you may easily conceive that the three pound hath but three quarters of the Mettal of the Piece, to keep it from breaking, when as four pound hath one quarter more Mettal then the other three had.

To make it more plain, if you look into the second Chapter you shall finde, That the first powder of all, was made of just so much Saltpeter, as of Cole, and of Sul­pher, called 1—1—1; if you had such powder, and also one of the old Pieces made in those days, as some of them may yet be seen in many Cities of England, you could not load them with any other pow­der but they would break. You shall hear what I have done; I made such kinde of powder as 1—1—1, and tryed how much of that powder was in strength to one pound of Pistol powder, being 6—1—1, by an Engine I found three pounds and nine ounces, the Piece was Saker bore of Iron, and the thickness of the Mettal about the Chamber, was two inches in thickness; I loaded the Piece with four pound of [Page 9] weak powder, which filled the Cylinder of the bore nine inches just; which nine inches in length, and two in thickness about the Chamber, is Two hundred twenty five inches of Mettal about the powder, near Forty seven pounds weight, at this adventure the Piece came off safe; but being loaden with one pound and a quarter of fine powder almost, which filled the bore but two inches and three quarters, and had to its fortification but Sixty eight inches and three quarters, which is in weight fifteen pounds, at the discharge of the Gun, it brake in divers pieces: This was done in Deriton, upon the 17 of March, Anno Dom. 1644. as many people can witness.

CHAP. 5.

SAltpeter is a mixture of many substances gotten with fire and water, out of dry and durty earth, or out of that ground which is found loose within Vaults, [Page 10] Tombs, or desolate Caves, where rain can­not come in, and also Charnel houses; The best of all is made of beasts dung converted into earth, in Stables, or in Dunghils, of a long time not used; and it is requisite, what dung soever it be, that by long continuance of time it be well resolved into earth, and all the moistness dryed up: When you have occasion to make of this dung, or earth, a great quan­tity of Saltpeter, it will be necessary for you to provide many Cauldrons, Furna­ces, Barrels and Tubs, and wood for fire; these Barrels must be set on end upon a Form, the top being taken out, and near the bottom a hole bored with an Augre; you must cover the inside of those holes with an earthen Porringer, and stop the outside with Taps; then fill up the Barrel with the said earth within a span of the brim, and remember that the earth about the said vessels should be rammed down, yet that part of the earth that lieth in the midst of the vessel, may lie loose; after­wards pour a Bucket of clean water upon the earth, and after that pour another, not failing to do so till all the earth within the [Page 11] Tub be well moistened, which ought to continue thus one day and night, the water a full hands breadth above the earth; then pull out the Taps or Spiggots out of the holes in the vessel, and let the water drop out of that vessel into another, being set under it: When you see no more water will drop, empty the undermost vessel again into the uppermost, out of which it did drop, and out of the same let it drop again, so long and so much as it can; this water when it hath dropped twice, is called water of Foot, and also the wash of earth, and must be saved by it self: After this pour other clean water upon the very same mould in the Tub, and when the said wa­ter hath dropped out of the higher vessel into the Tub that stands under, take all the earth out of the upper vessel, and fill it with more of the said earth, then pour upon this earth in the vessel, the water as you made first, called water of Foot, and wash of earth, suffering it to drop through the same into the undermost Tub, standing under the earth Tub, so often until it be so salt as to bite your tongue, and that an egg will swim on the top of the water: The [Page 12] first water being brought to this perfection, pour the second water upon the said earth, or other earth, that it may by often passing through be of as biting a taste as the for­mer, as also able to bear up an egg: Now this second water being very strong, must be boiled in a Cauldron, and after it hath well boiled, abate the fire under the Caul­dron, until you have taken off it all the scum, which must be saved in a Pot; then presently make a good fire, to cause it to boil again with speed, and as the water in the Cauldron diminisheth, scum the said water, and keep the said scum: When the scum shall be thick, hard, and of a French Russet colour, take some water out of the Cauldron, and let it drop upon a piece of Iron, for if the water be boiled enough, the drops of water will congeal upon the same Iron, but if they do not congeal, it is a sign it may abide the fire longer; when its boiled, as you may perceive by the afore­named signs, take it from the fire, and pre­serve it, because it is the Peter-water: Now when you have made an end of boiling the second water, you must boil and scum the first water (named water of Foot, or wash [Page 13] of earth) till it shall cast up a scum of a French Russet colour, unto which if it should happen to cleave to the sides of the Cauldron, you may put in the other Rus­set scum (that was made and saved by you before) to boil with it, until the drops of this water falling upon Iron will congeal; if this congealed water be very soft, you must boil it longer, but if hard, it is a sign it is burned; to amend this fault, put some clear water thereunto to amend it, then taking the Cauldron from off the fire, and setting it a stoop, so that the lies and drugs (which being congealed are the very salt whereof Saltpeter is made) may not with any water run over the brims of the vessel: You must (if you will make good Peter) suffer the said water to settle in the same vessel, and congeal in a darkish room, and the water which after two or three days will not congeal, hath dropped into some other Tub, take the Saltpeter out, and pre­serve the water that dropped, because it is Master water, and shall afterwards be used as I shall give you directions.

CHAP. 6.

TAke of flower or plaster that groweth on walls four parts, of unslact lime one part; this one part of lime must be well boiled in water over a fire, and after it hath boiled enough, it must be taken from the fire, and suffered to settle, then it must be strained into another vessel; then put the four parts of flower into such a vessel as I in the last Chapter ordered for earth; pour upon the said flower so much of the strain­ed water, which I call lie or lime water, as will dissolve the flower; when the flower is dissolved, let the water drop out of the said vessel, into an under vessel; then boil those said drops of lime water over the fire, till they being put upon Iron will con­geal, and be of a temperate hardnesse; for if they are very hard, the water is burned, but if soft, not enough; when it is well boiled (that is, to have the drops thereof [Page 15] on Iron neither too hard nor too soft) take it from the fire, and scum it with a scum­mer, and do unto it all that hath been taught in the last Chapter to be done with Peter-water.

CHAP. 7.

TAke Quicklime, and pour warm wa­ter upon it, and let it stand six days, stirring it once or twice a day; take the clear of this water, set it in the Sun until it be wasted, and the Saltpeter will remain in the bottom.

CHAP. 8.

PUt Saltpeter with well slacked lime into a clean Cauldron, and pour upon it so much lime water, or fair water, as will [Page 16] lie four fingers in height above the Peter and lime, and make a good fire under the Cauldron, that they may quickly boil, and be you ready, as scum shall rise, to take it away with a scummer; when you per­ceive that no more scum will rise, take the Kettle from the fire, and setting it some­what aslope, let the boiled water cool, set­tle and clear in the Sun; if the boiled wa­ter will not wax clean by this means, put ashes into it, and boil the same again a little while: This done, take the Cauldron a­gain from the fire, and set it aslope, sprin­kle on the boiled water some fair water cold, for by so doing you shall make the said water clear; this water being clear, must by little and little be poured out into some other vessel, so that the dregs or grounds may not go out with the same; for the water which lieth above in the vessel Saltpeter is made, and in the water below at the bottom of the vessel, which are the lies or dregs of Saltpeter; after you have in this sort poured out the said water into other vessels, and have suffered the same for two days (or more if need be) to congeal in the same vessels, you must take [Page 17] the said congealed water (which is Salt­peter) out of the vessels, and dry the same with the heat of the Sun, or by the fire.

After you have taken the said Saltpeter out of the vessels, the water which re­mains boil over a good fire, and when it casts up any scum, take the scum off, then try whether it be enough, by dropping some on Iron, if it congeal in a temperate way, take it from the fire; this being done, as it cooleth you shall see a thin skin to lie upon the water, which also scum off; this water will then congeal into Peter, as did the other, but it is not so good.

To refine Saltpeter with fire, do thus, Take an Iron Skellet and fill it with Peter, set it on the fire, and cover it close with some Iron cover on the top, or with a Tyle; when the Saltpeter is melted, take Brimstone most finely beaten, and cast some thereon, kindle it, and let it burn till all the upper part be burned; which when effected, will leave the Saltpeter clear like to a piece of Marble, for the Brimstone will burn up the gross victiousness of the Saltpeter.

CHAP. 9.

HAng a Kettle over the fire, and put Salt­peter therein; when it shall begin to boil, fry and smoke, stir it about with a wooden Ladle, cease not to mingle the Saltpeter well together, until it wax dry, for by so doing you shall take away the grease and salt that was in it; then pouring so much water into the Kettle as will cover the Peter, you must melt the Peter again over the fire, continually stirring it, until it become dry as before, and be like meal.

CHAP. 10.

PUt all the Saltpeter together that you will use into a Cauldron, for if it be to [Page 19] make Canon powder, you must take four parts of Peter, one part Brimstone, and one part Cole; if Musket powder 5—1—1; if Pistol powder 6—1—1: boil the Salt­peter in a Cauldron, with so much water as will serve to dissolve it; which being so dissolved, ought to be washed and laid up­on a clean place; this done, beat into dust the quantity of Cole that is to be added to this mixture, and then put this dust or fine beaten Cole unto the dissolved Peter, in­corporate them very well together, and as you are blending them, put in by little and little the Sulpher very well beaten; when this mixture of Saltpeter, Brimstone and Cole are well incorporated, lay it forth to dry a little; when the same mixture is somewhat dryed, by beating the Cole until it is subtile and in palpable, and is made a very well mixed substance, sift it well through a sive; then casting water or vineger upon it, corn it; and when you have so done, dry it against the fire, and Gunpowder is made. There are divers ways to grinde Gunpowder, the best way is to stamp it in Morters, with a Horse-mill or Water-mill, for the powder is thereby [Page 20] most finely beaten, and with least labor; with a knife cut in pieces some of this com­position, and if it appear all black, it is well done, but if any of the Brimstone or Peter is seen, it is not incorporated enough: Now I will shew you how to corn Gunpowder.

First, prepare a sive, with a bottom of thick parchment, made full of round holes, then moisten the powder, which shall be corned, with water, put the same and also a little bowl into the sive, when you have so done, sift the powder, so as the bowl rowling up and down in the sive, may break the clods of powder, and make it by running through the little holes, to corn.

You may also make Gunpowder by sift­ing every one of the three materials by it self through a very fine sive, and then moisten them with strong vineger, and in­corporate them together, for through that moistness the powder will be made more stronger, and beaten more finer, then corn it as before is taught: Note, That if you cannot sift it through the sive, beat that again into powder which will not through, [Page 21] until it will go through also; when you have sifted these materials two or three times severally, then blend them well toge­ther, and sift them also together; when you have done this, then moisten them with vi­neger, and proceed as before: Remember also, That Charcole made of the lightest wood is best.

CHAP. 11.

CHAP. 12.

HAving moistened the said Gunpowder with Vineger, or fair water, beat it well in a Morter, and then sift it through a sive or fine searse; with every pound of Gunpowder, mingle one ounce of Salt­peter that hath been mealed; and when you have so done, beat and moisten this mixture again, until you see by breaking or cutting with a knife, that there is no sign of Saltpeter or Brimstone in it: More­over, corn this powder when it is incor­porated with the Peter as it ought to be, and you have done.

CHAP. 13.

PUt so much thereof (as you will refine or new make again) into a linen bag, and then tie a string or rather small cord about the mouth of the said bag, then put it into a clean Kettle, and pour so much water therein as will cover the bag; this done, make the water to boil, till a drop of it laid upon iron or stone will congeal; and while the water boileth, remember to scum it, if need require; when it will congeal, take it from the fire, and set the Kettle aslope; when the water is as clear as it will be, pour it out into some vessel where it will congeal into Saltpeter; when you have taken the Saltpeter out of the said vessel, that water as remains, boil again, until it will (by dropping a drop thereof [...] iron) congeal, then put it again into the same ves [...]el: and thus do with all such [...] as is last, after you have taken out [...] Peter.

[Page 25]The Saltpeter and Brimstone which were within the said bag, did dissolve and soke into the boiling water; yea, the dis­solved Peter turned into water, and the Brimstone sunk down to the bottom of the water, where you may finde it; but the Coles (which were formerly compounded with the Peter and Brimstone) they remain in the bag, amongst the lies and dregs of the decayed Gunpowder: therefore when you have gathered together all the Saltpeter by the means above named, and dryed the same, weigh it, and also weigh the Brim­stone and Cole by themselves, and what you finde every thing to want in its quality and due proportion, make up with more, then mingle, beat and incorporate them, as you have been taught to make new Gunpowder.

CHAP. 14.

1. BY how much Gunpowder is the harder in feeling, by so much the better it is.

2. Gunpowder of a fair Azure or French Russet colour, is very good, and it may be judged to have all its receipts well wrought, and sufficient of the Peter well refined.

3. Lay two or three corns of Gun­powder upon a white piece of paper, the one three fingers distant from the other, and put fire to one of them, if the powder be good and strong, you shall see them all on fire at once, and that there will remain no grossness of Brimstone or of Saltpeter, no not any thing but a white smoky colour in the place where they were burned, nei­ther will the paper be touched.

4. If good Gunpowder be laid upon the palm of your hand, and set on [Page 27] fire, you will not be burned.

5. Gunpowder that hath a very sharp taste, hath abundance of the Peter not well refined, and will moisten again.

6. If white knots, or knots of a french russet colour, shall remain after powder is fired, it is a sign that the Saltpeter was not well refined, but left full of salt, and grease; especially when the same knots shall in burning be dankish, and leave moisture in the place where the Gunpowder was burned.

7. If hard, dry and white knots, or pearls, shall remain after the Gunpowder is set on fire, it is a sign that the Gunpowder is not well wrought, and it becometh every Gun­ner to beware of such powder, because if it doth lie long in a Piece, it will wax so fine, that if you unload not the Piece, it will in his discharge indanger the Piece of breaking.

8. If small black knots (which will burn downwards in the place where proof is made) remain after firing, they do shew that the Gunpowder hath not enough of the Peter, and that it is of little force or strength, and slow in firing.

[Page 28]9. If a little heap of Gunpowder set a fire, doth make a noise, rise up with great speed, and yield little smoke, it is a sign of very good powder.

10. If the flame of fired Gunpowder shall rise up slowly, continue long, make little noise, and yield smoke in great abun­dance, it is a sign the powder hath much Cole and Brimstone, and too little Peter.

11. If Gunpowder burned upon a board shall black the same, it is a sign that there is overmuch Cole in that powder.

12. When Gunpowder is moist, or full of the earth of Saltpeter, it is naught to be shot out of great Ordnance, for it shameth the Gunner which useth it.

13. If Gunpowder be very black, it is either a sign that there is too much Cole, or that it is moist, and when you rub it upon white paper, it will black it more then other good Gunpowder will do.

14. Amongst many sorts of powder to know the best, make a little heap of every sort, and then setting those heaps one from another, mark well when you put fire unto them, which of the heaps did soonest take fire; for that powder which will soonest be [Page 29] on fire, smoke least, and leave least sign behinde it, is the best sort of Gunpowder.

CHAP. 15.

TAke cords made of hemp thats not very fine, or of toe, which is better, although it will sooner consume, and let every cord be so big as a mans little finger; this done, boil the said cords in strong lie, ashes, and a little Saltpeter till all the lie be wasted.

CHAP. 16.

THe lid of this Engine is made to rise up in a straight line, and is as big as the box, and also hollow; on each side of the lid or cover, is a small hole for a wyre to pass through, and on one of the pillars of the Engine are little pieces of brass, or steel, so fitted that they may rise with a touch, and give way to the rising of the lid, and so soon as it is past, will hold it there, and will not suffer it to pass back [Page 30] again; the form whereof is here presented.

[Page 31] A The foot whereon the Engine standeth.

B The powder box, which hath too small wyres passing from each side to the top, to keep steddy the lid in its motion.

D The lid, which hath also two holes on each side for the wyres to pass through

E the side of the Engine, which is divi­ded, on which is placed at every division, one of those Pieces to slide up and catch the lid.

FF The form of these catches, being either of steel or brass.

GG The too wyres that guide the box lid, and must be put into a little piece of brass, at the top, which may be screwed higher or lower at pleasure, for the better straightning of the same.

H The screw which straightneth those wyres, placed on the top.

CHAP. 17.

IF you charge a Pistol, and discharge it against a bank of clay; do this with a little powder, always observing to take the like quantity to a grain of one sort of pow­der, as you do another sort: Then by [Page 33] measuring how far the bullet pierced in the clay, you may have some gess at the strength: also if you can make Rockets, such as fly into the air, and are made of Powder-dust, and Charcole-dust, by the strength or weakness of these you may know the like of powder.

If you can get a little Morter Piece (what a Morter Piece is you may read anon) cast at the iron furnace where cast the iron is made, to get one made in such a place is no difficult thing: Let it be made about three inches Diam: at the mouth, and let the Chamber of the said Piece be three quarters of an inch Diam: and two inches and one third part of an inch deep, load the Chamber with about half an ounce of powder, but put no wad in after it, the rea­son is, because one wad may be bigger then another, which will cause error; then put into your Motter a Bullet of Lead or Iron that will just fit the bore: now if it be of Iron, it will weigh three pound and ten ounces, if of Lead, almost five pound: This Morter-piece being erected at a cer­tain and unvariable elevation, and then be­ing discharged, shall (by its several ranges) [Page 34] tell the exact difference of powder above any other instrument that can be invented, for by noting how many paces a shot ran­geth, you shall finde the true difference, and be able to set down the true and infal­lible proportion betwixt all sorts of pow­der whatsoever.

Because you may fail in procuring one made at the Furnace where Iron is made, I will shew you in the following Treatise, how you may make such a one which may serve your turn.

Thus having in the foregoing Treatise set down by whom, at what time, of what strength and violence Gunpowder was at when invented; also how to make any sort of Gunpowder, & lastly to try its strength: I shall hence-following set down such Rules, that an ingenious man may learn to be a perfect Gunner, for I have omitted nothing that is necessary in that Art.

CHAP. 18.

THe true reason why this so famous an Art is at this present so slighted, is be­cause divers men for lucre of gains and good pay, have made friends, or some of them are friends and kinsmen to such as have authority to place and displace Gun­ners; and when such men as these should do service against the Enemy with their Guns, they bewray themselves what they are, which maketh some as ignorant Com­manders (as they themselves are ignorant Gunners) to say, I could have made a better shot my self; I do not think but I could level a piece with the best Gunner in En­gland; it is as easie to shoot in a great Gun as in a Musket; what need is there of main­taining any to be Gunners, considering we may have men at the twinkling of an eye to do as good service, and are as good [Page 36] Gunners as these; such speeches are usual, when tidings of little or no service comes to the knowledge of such Committees and Governors (they never finde fault with themselves) that choose those Gunners, be­cause divers of them are their friends and kinsmen, but lay all the blame on the Art saying, It is unprofitable, it spends more powder then do's good service; scarce ever considering what a good Gunner may do: I appeal to any reasonable mans judge­men, whether so good Musique can be expected from him who never touched In­strument, as from him which hath served and practiced above seven years in that profession? if an Instrument be naught, the Musique cannot be very good; like­wise if a Gun be naught, it cannot work good effects: as in Musique, if any strings be wanting it is defective; thus in Guns, if materials be wanting, no reasonable man can expect the like service, as when nothing is wanting, though it be at the hands of a good Gunner.

It is an evident thing, that if the shot hit such a mark (where execution may be done) that the effect will be according to every [Page 37] ones desire: It is also as evident, that the Art of Gunnery doth teach how, and with what Piece to hit any mark in its com­mand: And it is also as evident, that such Gunners may be found which are perfect in the whole Art; therefore (I conclude) that it is most of all evident, that the fault is not in this Art, but in such Commanders, Committees and others which the King or Parliament trusts in their Army or Gari­sons to make choise of Gunners.

CHAP. 19.

A Gunner ought to be skilful in Arith­metick and Geometry, to the end he may be able through his knowledge in those Arts, to measure heights, depths, breadths and length, and to draw the plot of any piece of ground, to make Mines, Countermines, Artificial Fireworks, Ram­piars, Baskets of earth, and such like things which are used in the time of War, to be made for offensive or defensive service.

[Page 38]A Gunner that hath a charge, ought to have in readiness all necessary things for his Artillery, these are Wheels, Axeltrees, Ladles, Rammers, Sheepskins to make Spunges, Gunpowder, Shot, Tampions, Chain shot, Cross bar-shot, Canvas, or strong paper (to make Cartredges) Fire­works, artificial Torches, dark Lanthorns, a gin to mount and dismount Guns, Hand-spikes, Coyns, Budge-barrels to carry powder, and Baskets to carry shot to your Piece; he is always, when leasure will per­mit, to choose good Matchcords, to arm his Linstock wherewith he must give fire.

A Gunner should never be without a Ruler and Compasses to measure the Dia­meter or Bore of every Piece; and also the length of the Cylinder within, the bet­ter to fit her with a shot, and proportion a charge.

A Gunner ought to know the names, length, weight and fortification of every Piece about the Chamber (that is, so far as the Piece is loaden with powder) and be able to tell readily how much Gunpowder is a due charge for every Piece, what shot is fit, how many Matrosses must attend the [Page 39] same upon service, how many Horses or Oxen will draw the said Piece, and in case they cannot be had, how many men will serve: And lastly, he should know how to charge and discharge Gunner like.

A Gunner ought not at any time to beat up the head of his powder barrels with an iron tool, but with a wooden mallet, which can never fire the same.

Every Gunner before he beginneth to shoot, ought to consider, that a long wad of Hay, or of untwisted Ropes, will make the shot to shoot wide of the mark.

Every Gunner before he beginneth to shoot, ought to consider, whether the Trunnions be truly placed in the Carriage, whether the Carriage have a true length, whether one wheel be higher or reverse faster then the other, whether the plat­form whereon the Piece is to do service, be level, or not; if not, to get the same a­mended: Lastly, to make clean the plat­form, that no stone or other thing lie for the wheels to run upon, for all these things not well observed, will cause the Piece to erre.

Every Gunner before he loadeth his [Page 40] Piece, must try whether it be true bored or not; if not, he is to proportion his charge according to the thinnest side of the mettal; he must take his observation at the brich of the Piece, just over where he shall finde (by his art) where the middle of the bore within the Piece is; by this means he shall make a good shot, out of a bad Piece.

Every Gunner before he makes his shot, ought to consider that if the Piece lye point-blanck, or under mettal, he ought to put in a sufficient wad after the shot, to keep it close to the powder; for if it should not be close, but some distance between, the Piece would break in the vacant place: but if in case you mount your Piece, then put no wad after the shot.

And one chief thing in the last place, to know very well how to dispart his Piece, be it either true bored, or not true bored, which he may try first.

CHAP. 20.

HE ought to have skill in the Arithme­tick, to Adde, Subtract, Multiply, Divide, to work any conclusion by the sin­gle or double Rule of Three; to abstract both the Square and Cube Roots, and to be perfect in the Art of Decimal Arith­metick: To touch these things I need not, being learnedly treated of by Mr. Record, Mr. Johnson, and best of all by Jurdans Arithmetick; all which Books are easie to be had, and at a cheap price: Whosoever hath not these qualifications, and no desire to learn them, he shall never be good Gunner; therefore I boldly affirm, That no honest man takes upon him this pro­fession (but such as are thus learned) for it is not the duty of an honest man, to under­take that (for the King or Parliament ser­vice) as he is not able to perform.

When a fit man is entertained, the Master [Page 42] Gunner whom he serves should bring him to his Piece, and give him the denomina­tion of every particular part, and other ne­cessary things belonging to his Piece; which when he hath perfectly learned (which is the Base-Ring, the Trunnion-Ring, or Rings, the Trunnions, the Mussel-Ring, the Handspikes, the Coyns; and also described how far in the Bore is called the Chamber of his Piece) he may, these things understood, proceed as followeth.

CHAP. 21.

GIrt the Piece round about the Base-Ring at the britch with a thrid, and also the Mussel-Ring at the mouth; lay these two strings upon a Table at length, and make two marks for the length of each string; divide the distance between each of these two marks into Twenty two equal parts, with your compasses, and seven of them is the just Diameter; then measure with your compasses how many inches, [Page 43] and parts of an inch, each of these Diame­ters are; subtract the greater Diameter out of the lesser, and take the just half of the difference, and that is the true Dispart, in inches and parts of an inch.

Example. Suppose when I have measured the length of each string, and divided it into Twenty two equal parts, I finde that seven parts of the longer string are ten inches, and seven parts of the shorter are Eight inches; I subtract eight out of ten, and there remains two, the just half of this is one, which is the true Dispart.

CHAP. 22.

FIrst, Dispart the Piece the two first ways, and when those two ways agree in one, take that for the true Dispart; then with your priming iron take the Dispart this last way; which done, compare it with the other Dispart first found, and [Page 46] what it wants is the just difference of the Chamber from the Bore of the Piece: Suppose the Dispart truly found by the two first ways be three inches, and by this last way to be but two inches, it shews that the Chamber differs from the true Bore on each side one inch; so that if the Bore of the Piece be six inches high, the Chamber being one inch on each side lower, is but four inches high: This observation I would always have you to make, that you be not afterwards deceived, in making Cartredges of Paper to load the same withal.

CHAP. 23.

DIvide the Bore of the Piece into Twenty equal parts, and one of these parts is sufficient vent for any Piece; the rest of the nineteen parts must be the height of the shot: But most Gunners now adays allow the shot to be just one quarter of an [Page 47] inch lower then the Bore of the Piece; which rule makes the shot too big for a Canon, and too little for a Faulcon; but if the mouth of the Piece be grown wider then the rest of the cylinder within, by often shooting; to choose a shot for such a Piece, you must try with several Rammer heads, until you finde the Diameter of the Bore in that place where the shot useth to lie in the Piece; and a shot of one Twen­tieth part lower then that place, is suf­ficient.

Every Gunner ought to try his Piece, whether it be not wider in the mouth then the rest of the Chase, and then pro­ceed to choose his shot.

CHAP. 24.

SO soon as you have discharged a Piece of Ordnance, cover the mouth of the Piece close, and stop the touch-hole at [Page 48] that instant; by this you may know if any unknown cracks or flaws do go through the mettal, for if they do, a visible smoke will come through those cracks and flaws.

Also it is a good way, when the Sun shineth, to take a steel (or other) Looking-glass, and with the same, reflect the beams of the Sun into the mouth or hollow Cy­linder of the Piece; for by this means a bright and clear light will be within, and by that splendious light you shall see every flaw, crack or honycomb.

But in case the Sun doth not shine, take a stick, somwhat longer then the piece, having cloven one end of the said stick for to hold an end of candle, put the said stick, with the candle lighted, into the Piece; by this light observe, so well as you can, whether from the one end to the other, there be any of the aforesaid in the Piece.

Also, if (in striking a Piece of Artillery upon the outside of the mettal with an iron hammer) you shall at any stroke hear a hoarse sound, then without doubt there are honycombs, &c. but if you so striking the Piece shall at every stroke hear a clear [Page 49] sound, assuredly the Piece is clear of any dangerous flaws cracks or honycombs.

CHAP. 25.

YOu must gird the shot with a line, then divide that line into twenty two equal parts, and Seven of those parts is the Di­ameter or height of the shot.

But the best way to avoid al mistakes is to take the said height or Diam: of the shot with a pair of Callaper compasses, as you may see by this demonstration.

[Page 50]Also by such a pair of Callapers you may finde the Diam: of the Base-Ring, and of the Mussel-Ring, of any Piece of Ordnance; and by taking half the dif­ference of those two Diameters you may make the dispart.

CHAP. 26.

A Bullet of iron of six inches hie, weigh­eth thirty pounds; what will the like bullet of seven inches in height weigh? Resolution, first, Multiply six cubically, then multiply seven cubically; then as the cube of six, is in proportion to the cube of seven; so thirty pounds (the weight of a shot of six inches high) is to so many pounds as a shot of seven inches high will weigh.

Example. First, I multiply six cubically, there ariseth two hundred and sixteen, then I multiply seven cubically, which is three hundred forty nine; then I say, as two hundred and sixteen is to three hundred forty three, so thirty (the weight of six inches high) is to forty seven pounds, ten ounces, and one quarter; the weight of a shot seven inches high.

CHAP. 27.

SUppose the height of the shot be three inches and three quarters, and the weight seven pounds five ounces; I would know what a shot of sixteen pounds would be in height, according to the same proportion? First, finde the Cube root of three inches three quarters, which you may do by the Table; then as the seven pounds five oun­ces is to the Cube of 3 ¾, so sixteen pounds is to such a Cube, whose root is the height of the shot sought for.

Example By the Table I finde the Cube of three inches three quarters to be 52, and 73 hun­dred parts of one unit (for all the fractions are so many parts of one unit, the said unit being divided into 100 parts) then as seven pounds five ounces (the weight of a shot of inches 3 ¾ diam:) is in proportion to 52 73 the Cube of inches 3 ¾ the height of the said shot; so 16 (the weight of that shot whose height you seek) to 115 the Cube, [Page 56] whose root being found in the Table, is four inches three quarters, and somewhat more: for in the Table, the nearest num­ber to 115, is 107, the just Cube of four inches three quarters; and this number 115 exceeding the former by eight, this shew­eth that it is a very small deal higher, scarse one half quarter of an inch: And you may also perceive by the last rule in the 26 Chapter, that seven inches cubical make a pound: now finding this to exceed 107 (the Cube of 4 ¾) eight cubical inches, you may conclude, that it is one pound, and one seventh part of a pound heavier then a shot of just four inches three quarters height.

CHAP. 28.

THe proportion between lead and iron, is as two to three; so that a shot of three [Page 57] pounds of lead is of the like Diameter or height as two pounds of iron.

The proportion betwixt lead and brass, is as twenty four to nineteen.

The proportion between lead and stone, is as four to one; so that one shot of lead of forty pounds, is of the height as a stone shot of ten pounds.

The proportion betwixt iron and brass, is as sixteen to eighteen.

The proportion betwixt iron and stone, is as three to eight; so that a shot of thirty pounds of stone, is as big as the like shot of eighty pounds iron.

The Reader taking these proportions into consideration, and having knowledge in the Art of Arithmetick, may with ease cal­culate (if iron shot be wanting, and the other to be had) what height and weight either shot of lead, brass or stone, ought to be of, to fit any Piece of Ordnance: But for such as are not acquainted with Arith­metick, to calculate these proportions, for their help I framed a Table, that doth shew the weight of any shot of lead, iron and stone, from two inches Diameter, to eight inches, dividing every inch into quarters.

[Page 58]I do confess that some sort of stone is much heavier then other; but such as you ought to use, should be that which is most compact, as Marble, Pibble stones also may be found which are round, and hard blew stone, such as divers Tombs are made of, it being somewhat courser then Mar­ble; all these to my knowledge are much about that proportion as I have given: But such as is soft, as Free-stone, and the like, they are not so pondrous as the other, nor so fit for use: Also lead, the finer and nearer to tin, the less weight it is.

You are to note, That in loading your Piece with a shot of stone, you are not to load the Piece with so much powder as you did formerly with iron shot, but abate, ac­cording to the proportion as is between stone and iron.

CHAP. 29.

[Page 60]You may, if you please, look into the former Table of Cube Roots, and com­pare this with that; for you shall finde the Cube of each number bear the like pro­portion one towards another, as the weight of each Bullet is to another of the same mettal.

CHAP. 30.

I Have found by experience, That if you take five parts lead, and one part stone, it will come very near the matter, wanting not much above three ounces, which is no­thing respecting the difference you shall finde in Pibble-stones: Here I have framed a Table of how much lead, and how much stone must be together, to make the equal weight of iron shot, from one inch to eight every half inch.

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CHAP. 31.

IF the Piece be of the same mettal that the Piece whose weight you know of, you must do this, first take the greatest thickness of your known Piece with your Callapers, and also of the Piece whose weight you know not; with their Diame­ters, enter the Table of Cube Roots; then observe, that as the Cube of the Diam: of the Piece (whose weight is known) is to the weight of the said Piece, so the Cube of the Diam: of the Piece (whose weight you seek) is to the weight sought for: But if the Piece be of another mettal, first work as before, afterwards as the difference of the mettal iron and brass is between them­selves, so the weight found by the first rule is to the true weight sought for.

Example. A brass Saker of 1900 weight, hath its greatest thickness eleven inches and a half, whose Cube is 1520.85 (as appeareth by the Table of Cube Roots) Now I finde the Diam: of the other brass Piece, whose weight I know not, to be eight inches and three quarters; and by the Table I finde the Cube to be 669.92, then as 1520.85, (the Cube of 11 ½) is to 669.92 (the Cube of 8 ¾) so 1900 (the weight of the known Piece) to 837 pounds almost; but if the Piece had been iron whose weight you sought, then having done as much as be­fore, first supposing as if it were brass, finde the difference of the mettals in Chap. 28. and the difference between iron and brass, will appear to be as 16 to 18, brass being the heavier; then say, as 18 (the weight of brass) is to 16 (the weight of a Piece of iron of the same bigness) so 837 (the weight of a brass Piece) is to 744, the weight of an iron Piece of the like shape and magnitude.

CHAP. 32.

THis Chapter or Proposition is resol­ved almost like the former, for first you must find the Cube Root of the diameter of the bore of that Peece, whose allowance of Powder for a charg you know: and also the Diameter of the bore of the Peece, which you would know how much should load, or charge it, then by the Table finde their Cubes, and as the cube of that you doe know, is to the cube of that you know not, so the quantity of powder known, is to that sought for.

Example. A Saker of three inches three quarters diameter of the bore requires foure pound [Page 66] what will a Demicannon of six inches and an half require? the cube of three and three quarters is 52 and 73 hundred parts of an u­nite, and the cube of six and a halfe is 274, and 62 hundred parts: Then say evermore, as 52.73 (the cube of three and three quar­ters) is to 274, and 62 hundred parts, (the Cube of six inches and an halfe) so foure pound of Powder to load a Sa­ker, is in proportion to 20 pound 13 ounces the Powder to load a Demicannon. You are likewise to understand that the Demicannon should be fortified so well as the Saker: the cube of the diameter of the Demicannon is 274, of the Saker 52, the weight of the Sa­ker 1600, what should the weight of the Demicannon be; then say as before, as 52 (the cube of the bore of the Saker) is to 274 (the cube of the Demicannon bore) so 1600 (the weight of that Saker) is to 8431, the weight that such a Demicannon should be of, that can beare such a proportionable charge, according to the Saker: But suppose the Demicannon to be no more then 6000 weight, then you must multiply 6000 by 20 pound and 13 ounces (the charge already calculated) divide by 8431 the weight, and [Page 65] you shall finde 14 pound 13 ounces, which is a sufficient charge for that Peece: thus you are always to take care of over-loading your Peece, which errour divers run into, when they call a Peece a Demicannon, they pre­sently load her, with so much, as is allowed for such a Peece so named, seldome exami­ning, whether the Peece have mettall e­nough, for such a charge; by which mistake, they stand in danger of their own lives, and others too, which are about them; which may easily be prevented, as is above decla­red.

CHAP. 33.

YOu must provide a Pike-staffe, about a foot longer then the bore of your Peece; and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head, that will just fill all the bore under the touch-hole, and at the other [Page 68] end of the staffe you must bore a hole, big enough to put thorow a rod of iron, which must hang from the same; and at the other end of the rod, must be made a weight about the bignesse of a Saker shot, this is done, to make the pike staffe and rammer head, to lye with the same part upward, when they are taken out of the Peece, as they did, when the were within the Peece: then you must put your Instrument, thus prepared, into the Peece; letting the iron ball (that is at the end of the rod, which is put thorow the hole, bored acrosse the pike staffe) hang perpendi­cular; then take your priming Iron, or some other Bodkin, and put it down the touch-hole, to the rammer head; making a mark therewith, this done, draw out your Instru­ment; and lay the same on a long table, with the Iron ball hanging off the end, perpendi­culer: as it did when this Instrument was in the Peece, then observe whether the marke you made upon the rammer head, when it was in the Peece, be just on the upermost part of the same, if it be; the bore at the Peece lyeth neither to the right, nor left hand; if you finde it a quarter of an inch on the right, or left hand; so much lyeth the bore either [Page 96] to the right, or left; and the Peece in shoot­ing must be ordered & charged accordingly.

By this aforesaid, you may finde whether the bore incline to the right or left: but to know whether it ly also upwards and down­wards, and not in the middle, that way: To know this finde the diameter of the Peece at the touch-hole, as is before taught; then take a wire and bend it a little at the very end, that it may catch at the mettall, when you draw it out of the said touch-hole: after this wire is thus prepared, first put it in at the touch-hole, till it touch the bottom of the mettall in the Chamber, then holding it in that place, make a mark upon that wire, just even with the said touch-hole, after­wards draw up the wire untill it catch at the mettall on the top of the Chamber, and holding it there make a mark as before; the difference between the two marks is the just widenesse of the Chamber, and the di­stance betweene the first mark, and the end of the wire (having half the diameter of the Chamber of the Peece substracted from it) will leave halfe of the diameter of the Peece, if the Peece be true bored, but if this number be more then halfe the diameter, [Page 70] then the bore lyeth too far from the touch-hole, and the upper part of the mettall is thickest; but if lesse, the under part hath most mettall.

Example. First, I finde the diameter of the Peece to be 12 inches at the touch-hole, then with my wire I finde the bore to be in diameter four inches: to the bottome of the mettall it is seven inches and an half; the half of the diameter or bore is two inches: which be­ing added to the distance from the second marke on the wire, or substracted from seven inches and an halfe the first marke; leaves five inches and an halfe, which is lesse then halfe of the diameter you first took, by half an inch: therefore as I said be­fore, the greatest part of the mettall is under the bore, and the Peece likest to break above, also when you make the dispart for that peece you are to make it halfe an inch shor­ter then before, the like observation you must have to make it longer, in case the mettall be thickest in the upper part.

Thus I hope I have given reasonable sa­tisfaction [Page 71] concerning this point, and I am sure on that manner as was never taught before: the truth is, there was never any way taught before that could performe this thing, the peece lying in its carriage; and how laborious it is to handle a great peece out of a carriage, let Gunners judge: I made two such Instruments as are taught by Ma­ster William Bourne, in his Book, called The Art of shooting in great Ordnance, Chap. 2. but neither I, nor I believe himself, could e­ver use them, when the peece is in its cariage.

CHHP. 34.

CHAP. 35.

FIrst, you must calculate a charge of powder for the said iron peece, as if it had been a brasse peece, and in case you have not the weight of the said iron peece, you must finde it as you are taught in Chap. 31 of this book, when you have found as I have taught in Chap. 32, how much powder would load the same if it were of brasse, then just three quarters so much is sufficient to load an iron peece.

Example. A brasse Saker of 1500 weight, requires foure pound, what will an iron Demiculve­ring of 2800 weight require, you shall finde that such a Demiculvering of brasse would have required 7 pound and an halfe as in Chap. 32. as thus, the Cube of the bore of a Saker, three inches and three quarters, is 52 73 of the bore of a Demiculvering foure [Page 81] inches and a half is 91 12; then if 52 73 re­quire foure pound, what will 91 12 require (the cube of the Demiculvering) you shall finde six pound 15 ounces, so much shall serve for a brasse peece, if so well fortified as the Saker, the which we will likewise ex­amine, as 52 73 (the cube of the Saker bore) is to 91 12, the cube of the Demiculvering bore) so 1500, the weight of the Saker, is to 2592, the weight that such a Demiculvering should be of, that burneth six pound 15 oun­ces of powder: to finde what a Demiculve­ring of brasse of 28 hundred will require say thus, if 2592 require six pound 15 oun­ces, what will 2800 aske? multiply, and divide, and you shall finde 7 pound 8 oun­ces; of which number you must take three quarters for a charge for the said Iron De­miculvering, being 5 pound ten ounces a suf­ficient quantity to load such a peece withall.

Also what ever you finde in the 34 Chap­ter for Brasse peeces, take three quarters thereof for the charge of your Iron peece, if it be neer that weight.

CHAP. 36.

SUppose the diameter of the mettall of the Peece at the touch-hole be 16 in­ches, and the diameter of the bore five and a quarter, the weight of the Peece 4850; or as you may find by Chap. 31. such a peece you may find by the Rule of Proportion, in the 32 Chap. requires eleven pound for her due charge, being neer two diameters of her bore in powder: by my Instrument spoken of before, I try whether she be true bored, and by the mark on the Tampion, at the end of the pike, I find the sole or bore to be one inch out of his place, or one inch from the middle of the mettall, then I conclude, that the thinnest part of the mettall, is inches 4 three eight parts: and the thickest side 6 three eight parts: by which it appears that one side is just two inches thicker then the other side, as you may see plainly by this fi­gure, where the line divided being the dia­meter; [Page 83] every division signifieth one inch; the outward circle the out side of the met­tall of the Peece; the inner circle signifieth the borer which you may see to lye just one inch from his true center, of the out-most circle; how to calculate a charge for this Peece you shall presently understand; you must suppose as if this Peece were for­tified no more, but onely so much, as the thin most part of the mettall is: which here will appeare to be 4 inches and three eight parts of an inch, and the half of the diame­ter you shall find by adding half, that of the

[Page 84] bore 2 five eight parts, to the aforesaid num­ber, to be just seven inches from A: the cen­ter of the bore in the figure to C the thin­nest part of the mettall the whole diameter being 14: the second diameter being found is the true diameter, which you must pro­portion your charge by: the former being 16 inches, if the bore had been placed in the true center: Then as the cube of 16, is to the cube of 14, so eleven pound of powder, (being the charge calculated before for a peece of 6 inches diameter) is to such a charge as shall suffice.

Example. The Cube of 16 is 4096, of 14: 2744, then as 4096, is to 11, so 2744, is to 7 pound and almost 6 ounces, a sufficient charge for such a false bored peece.

CHAP. 37.

TO make your Cartredges, take can­vas, such as the powder will not creep thorow, and let it be in bredth (I mean that peece of cloth wherewith you will make one Cartredge) just three diame­ters of the Chamber of the Peece in bredth: and for the length you will finde it by the filling of them, these being sewed together upon a mould; which must be a very little lesse then the diameter of the bore, and a­bout 4 diameter long, upon this you may make paper Cartredges also: when they are made; yea are to fill them by the helpe of those two Tables following, the one shew­ing how much powder will fill one diameter of the bore of the Peece, and the other how far in height of an inch Rule you must fill with powder, to make either one pound, [Page 86] two or three pound, as the title on the top will shew you: you may use that of these two ways, as stands best with your conve­nience; and best befits your use: If you are to fill Cartredges for a Demicannon, and you finde that the Demicannon is able to beare two diameters of powder in her load, by this Table over against 6 inches and an half De­micannon diameter: you shall finde eight pound, eleven ounces and an half; to fill one diameter of the said peece: the double of which is 17 pound and 7 ounces, a fit charge for the peece.

If you fill a Cartredge for a Saker with five pound of powder; to know how full 5 pound will make it looke in the second Ta­ble, and first against three and three quar­ters Saker bore, you shall find 3 pound will fill 6 inches and 3 quarters, in height of your Cartredge, and two pound more will fill 4 inches, and an half; which being added to­gether, shews that your Cartredge is to be fitted just eleven inches, and one quarter for 5 pound.

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[Page 88]To fill Carteredges for Minion, 3 pound; look in the second Table, and in the Col­lume of 3 pound; you shall have (right a­gainst 3 inches and one quarter Minion bore) 9 inches just, to be the height of the pow­der in the Cartredge, for the loading that Mi­nion 3 pound.

To fill for a Demiculvering, which requi­reth 2 Diameters and an half for his charge; look in the first Table, right against 4 inches and an halfe, you shall find 2 pound 14 oun­ces; to fill one Diameter of the said Gun: which being doubled maketh 5 pound and 12 ounces, and one half Diameter also added to that; maketh the Charge to be 7 pound 3 ounces.

Now having fully shewed how to make powder, to try the strength of powder, to know what shot and powder is meet for e­very Peece: to finde whether the Peece be true bore or not, to load a peece with dis­cretion if not true bored: to make the dis­part: and also to know the difference be­tween Iron and Brasse peeces: I shall come to touch how to make a good shot, either at point blank, or at randon; with as much ease and plainness, as ever was before taught by any whatsoever.

CHAP. 38.

SEt your dispart on the Mussell ring, just over the center of the mouth of the peece; which you may best doe, by putting a stick acrosse the bore, and divi­ding it into two equall parts, then with a plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Peece, being guided by the divided stick, you shall have a good ayme, where to set your dispart; this being done, go to the Base ring, if the Peece be true bored, then finde out which is the highest part, and middle of that ring, but if the Peece be not true bored, then finde which part of the Base ring, is just over the Cylinder; and take that for your true line. When you have found out both the Dispart, and placed it, and also found what point in the Base ring is to answer it, then make some very small mark on the [Page 2] Base ring in that place, hold your head a­bout two foot from the Base ring, and there you may best observe, as the Peece is tra­vissing, when you are in a direct line with the Mark, this being done, give one of your Matrosses order, to raise, and fall the Peece with his Hand-spike, as you shall appoint him, untill you can (holding your head about two foot from the Breech of the peece) with your eye perceive the marke at the Base ring, and the top of the Dispart in a direct line with the Marke you must shoot at: at that instant stop the motion of the Peece with a Coyne, that it may remain as you have directed it: Then prime the Peece and give fire.

Before you place on your Dispart, you are to observe whether the ground be levell, on which the wheeles of the Gun stand, if they are not one higher then the other: If the Trunnions are placed just over the Ax­tree of the Wheeles or not: Whether one Trunnion lye higher on the Carriage then the other: Whether the Gun be truly pla­ced in the carriage or not; I mean not swer­ving more to one side then the other: Whe­ther the said Carriage be truly made or not: [Page 3] And lastly, whether the Axtree be placed just a crosse the Carriage or not.

CHAP. 39.

AFter you have made one shot, and finde the Peece carry just over the Marke, then doe all as hath been be­fore taught again, and when as your Peece lies directly against the Marke, observe how much the last strock of the shot is above, the Marke, so much longer make your Dis­part, that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the peece in a direct line with the strock of the shot, when it is of this length, then levell your Peece with this new Dispart, to the assigned Marke: Give fire, and without doubt it will strike the same.

If the first shot had struck under the Mark, [Page 5] then bring the Peece in all points as before to passe, marke how mueh of the Dispart is over the strock of the shot, and cut it just so short, as being at the britch you may discern the top of it, the marke on the Base ring, and the strock of the shot in a right line, when you perceive it is of such a length, le­vell the peece to the assigned marke as at the first, then prime and give fire.

If the first shot had struck on the right hand of the Marke, to mend it, you must le­vell the Peece as formerly, you standing be­hinde the britch of the Peece, observe the strock of the shot over the Dispart, that part of the Base ring as you at that instant looke over in a right line towards the Dispart, and the strock of the shot, set up in that place a pin with a little soft wax on the Base ring, so this pin will be in a right line with the Dispart and strock of the shot: this being done, levell your Peece to the Marke assign­ed, by this pin and the Dispart, and without question you will make a faire shot.

For when you levell by the mettall of the base ring where the pin is placed and the marke, the peece standing at that direction, looke over the top of the Dispart, from the [Page 6] notch in the Base ring, and you shall finde the peece to lie just so much to the left, as the former shot struck to the right from the as­signed marke, which should in all likelyhood now strike the marke.

But if the shot be both wide and too low, then you must use both directions above taught, to make the next shot: First regu­late the Dispart by cutting it shorter, accor­ding as the shots marke is lower then the as­signed Marke; when this is done, then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide. These things done with care and di­ligence, cannot choose but mend a bad shot.

CHAP. 40.

YOU are to understand that every Circle great and small is divided in­to 60 Degrees, the cause of this [Page 7] division is, because the Sun maketh his mo­tion in little more then 365 dayes, through the Zodiack or twelve Coelestiall Signes, which is a Yeare; now 360 is the next even number that can be divided into quarters and halfe quarters, fit for use, and the Sun dividing his Circle thus, does give example to all Mathematicians to divide all accor­dingly, a quarter of which Circle we call a Quadrant, containing 90 Degrees, you must have a ruler fastened to one side of such a quarter of a Circle or Quadrant, that must be put within the concave of the Peece, with a piece of lead at the end, to make the said rule lie close to the bottome of the met­tall within, the Quadrant hanging without, by the plumb-line you shall find how many of those Degrees the Peece is elevated unto, and the Quadrant being thus placed, you may mount the Peece to what Degree you shall finde fit to shoot by.

I will not make any figure of a Quadrant, or give other directions for the making of it, because they which want one may buy it in divers places in London, but will proceed to teach the use thereof in Gunnery.

Every one that will learn to shoot at Ran­don, [Page 8] must draw his Peece into a levell ground, where first shooting levell, he must observe that distance in feet or paces, then mount his Peece to one Degree, and marke where that shall graze: thus finde the di­stance of every Degree, from the levell to the 10 ^th. Degree, and by these distances make a Table, to which annex the Degrees against the distances, by which Table you may (using the Art of proportion) finde how far another Peece will convey her shot from Degree, to Degree: But in case you cannot have liberty, nor pouder to doe all the aforesaid, I will tell you what I have done my selfe, out of a Saker eight foot long, loded with three pound of pou­der, at the first shoot being one degree moun­ture, it conveyed her shot 375 yards, or 225 paces: the next shot was at five Degrees Randon, at which mounture shee conveyed 416 paces, and the next tryall was at seven Degrees mounture, the Randon produced 505 paces, the last tryall was at ten Degrees, which conveyed 630 paces, five foot to a pace.

Whilst I made these shots I loded the Peece my selfe with loose pouder exactly [Page 9] weyed, and weyed the wad, also I beat down the said wad with foure stroaks, so neere as I could with the same strength I did the time before, also I let the Peece cool of it selfe, staying above halfe an houre be­twixt each shot, I put no wad after the bul­let because the Peece was mounted, I am sure if I had not taken all this care, I should not have profited by all these shots: When these were made, I tryed the strength of the pouder, the which I carefully noted down, also I kept some of it to compare a­gain, when I should have other pouder, these things I would advise every one to observe, that meaneth to be cunning in shooting at Randon.

It is the duty of a Master Gunner of a Town or Fort, to draw an exact description of the said Garrison, and of every object as lyeth neer his Works within the reach of his Guns, by which means he shall not be troubled to take the distance, but be ready at all times to know the distance by his Map: then after he hath made one shot, he by the Rule of Proportion may be able to make ano­ther shot to any distance he pleaseth, exāple, suppose I find the distance by my Map where [Page 10] the first shot grazed, to be 704 paces; the mounture of the Peece being foure degrees, how much must I mount the peece to con­vey her shot 900 paces, you must proporti­on these distances of Randon to those in my Table; say, if 407 paces require 370 paces, (as the Table hath it at foure Degrees of Randon) what number to be found in the Table, against that Degree which I must mount the Peece unto will 900 require. Multiply and divide, and you shall finde 473 which number is not to be found in the Ta­ble, but the next lesse is 461, against six Degrees, and the next greater number is 505, against seven Degrees, the difference between these two numbers is 44, which shew that the Peece must be mounted at six Degrees and one third part, for to reach the distance of 900 paces, because 461 is 12 lesse then 473, it being one third part almost of 44 the difference.

[Page 11]Here I present unto your view the Table of Randons which I made by my own ob­servation, desiring e­very one if it be possi­ble he can get pouder, to make one by his own experience, and alwayes remember to keep some of the same Gunpouder to try its proportion, as I have taught in the 16 Chap. with any other pou­der that afterwards he shall have occasion to use, for this is one of the excellentest properties that belong to a Gunner, and without this knowledge he shall never be able to make good shot, be­cause at the time of a Leagure he must often change his pouder, at such a time I have had nine pound of one sort, as good as 15 of ano­ther sort, as both by shooting, and by my Instrument I have experimented.

CHAP. 41.

EVery one that hath charge of a Gun, must at one time or other obtein leave of his superiours, to make two or three shots at least out of his said Peece, and mea­suring the distance from the Platform to the first graze of the shot, you must apply it to my Table, and by the Rule of Proportion, as in the last Chapter, finde what Degree you shall need to mount the Gun for any other shot at another time when you shall have oc­casion.

First, When you come to your Peece, set your Boudge barrel on the wind hand there­of, and causing one of your Matrosses to hold the same aslope, thrust your Ladle into the same, filling it full of pouder, and then strick it with a Ruler, (for by so doing, you may know just how many pounds and ounces you load your peece withall) then fixing [Page 13] your thumb just under the staffe of the La­dle, thrust the same home to the Chamber of the Peece where the pouder lyeth, turn­ing the Ladle so, as your thumb be directly above the staffe, and in so doing, the pouder will empty it selfe out of the Ladle cleanly, then drawing out your Ladle, with the Tam­pion at the other end of that staffe, thrust home the pouder, causing your assistant to hold his finger or thumb close on the touch-hole, then taking a close round wad of hey, or untwisted rope, thrust in the same with your Rammer head that is on the Spunge staffe, (for if you should doe it with that on the Ladle, it would soon loosen the plate of the Ladle) and with it give three or foure good stroaks, when you have thus done put in the bullet without any wad, because the Peece must be elevated.

If you charge your peece with Cartred­ges, which I count the best way; providing, (that although they hold the like quantity of powder) they be all of one thicknesse; otherwise you shall finde much deceit in shooting: slit it a little in that place, which must be conveyed under the touch-hole; then put it home with the end of the Ram­mer, [Page 14] and afterwards put home to it a good wad, then turn in the shot, the Peece being loaded, as I have taught you, take the di­stance to the mark, by such means as I teach in the 59 Chapter of this Book: and also ob­serve, how many degrees the platform, is either higher, or lower, then your marke with your Quadrant: after you have done thus; and calculated what degree you must mount the Gun unto, to reach the mark, if the said mark be under the platform; sub­tract the profundity, out of the degrees of randon, but if the said mark be higher then the platform, add the degree of that altitude, to the degrees of Random: and at these cor­rected degrees, mount your Peece: by put­ting the Ruler of the Quadrant into the mouth of your peece, marking diligently un­till the plumb-line, which proceedeth from the center of your Quadrant, cut those de­grees and parts of a degree (unto which you are to mount the Gun) in the Circumfe­rence; Make your shot, for without questi­on, you may either strike or come very neer the mark.

Example. Suppose that when you make triall of your Gun, as is spoken of in the beginning of this Chapter, you finde that at seven de­grees of Randon upon a levell ground, the shot is conveyed 700 paces, you being cal­led out upon service against a Citie, or other Fort, and being appointed to play your Gun towards it; you also finding it to beyond point-blank; the distance being 560 paces; also that the said place is lower then where you must plant your Gun, by one degree, and one sixt part, then to know the degrees of mounture, say, as 700 paces (being the range of seven degrees, out of your Gun formerly) is to 505 (the distance of Ran­don found in my Table of Ranges for se­ven degrees) so 560 (the distance to the mark) is to 404; this number is to be found in the Table or the neerest number unto it; and against that the degrees: the parts of the degrees must also be found, by subtracting the neerest lesse number, out of the neerest great number: thus looking in the Table the neerest lesse number is 370, the neerest grea­ter [Page 16] 416: one subtracted from the other the difference will be 46:404 differeth from 416 but 12 parts, which is a little above one quarter; so that your degree of Randon is foure and three quarters; or five lack one quarter; because the mark is lower then the platform, subtract one degree and one sixt part or ten minutes out of four degrees, and three quarters, or 45 minutes; and the re­mayn is three degrees and 35 minutes, the true height, to which your peece must be e­levated, to reach the mark.

If the shot graze either to the right or left, you are to mend it by the directions in Chap. 39, but if over, then you are to consider the distance, how much it is beyond; and the next shot abate so many minutes out of your mountures, as the distance beyond the marke does require; if short, you are to adde to your mounture, as if the like num­ber of paces that you shall finde short, had been wanting to your distance, then proceed as before.

Example. Suppose the shot graze over the marke 20 paces, substract this 20 out of 560 the [Page 17] distance, and mount the next shot according as if the marke were but 540 paces distant.

If 20 paces short, make the next shot at 580 paces, I mean at that degree that will reach so far.

CHAP. 42.

BEcause the Quadrant aforementioned cannot be conveniently used at all times, for if the winde be high, you will have very much adoe to make the plum­met stand still, besides, it is a great trouble to take the profundity of a valley, and the altitude of a hill, when the marke is not le­vell, also in field service you cannot use it, (but onely in a Leaguer or out of a Garrison when it is beleagured) the plumb-line is o­verlong before it stands still: to remedy all [Page 18] this, the Gunners Rule was invented, the figure whereof you may see in the following page. This rule must be some 10, 12, or 14, inches long, according as the Gun will re­quire, it must have a long slit down the middle thereof, dividing it almost into two, but onely held together by a little peece at the head and the foot, which must be circu­lar according to your Gun, as you may see in the figure, where the Instrument is de­scribed, standing upon the britch of a peece of Ordnance: in the middle of the small and narrow slit you must place a lute string, and upon that a beade, which you may move up and down at pleasure, or if you cannot get a lute string, you may use a good thrid instead thereof; this bead must be set to such an inch, as you finde is agreeable to such a degree, that you must mount your Gun un­to, in this figure, the bead is at foure inches and halfe a quarter: on one side the slit must be placed a division of Inches and quarters or tenths of Inches, on the other side must be placed the Degrees and Minutes, when you shall finde by the length of your Gun, how many Inches and parts goes to make one Degree. If you make this Ruler for [Page]

[Page 20] one onely Gun, then you may place on the Degrees, but if for divers Ordnances, then you must not figure the same, for the de­grees once placed on, can serve but for one Gun.

CHAP. 43.

IF you make your Ruler for one Gun onely, I will here teach you to divide the opposite side (to that divided into Inches and tenth parts of Inches, that is e­very Inch divided into ten equall parts) into Degrees by the Table following, which Ta­ble is divided into 10 Columes for the ten degrees, and right before this division is the length of the Gun set down, which you must enter the Table withall, and just against it you shall have in how many Inches and parts of an Inch doe make one degree, two degrees, three degrees, and so to ten degrees.

[Page]

Place this Table in folio 20, little b.

[Page 21]If your Gun be 12 foot long, two inches, and 53 hundred parts of an inch doth make one degree, five inches, and six parts, (if the inch were divided into 100) maketh two degrees, &c. For I told you before, that you must divide your inch into ten parts, and for more exactnesse, suppose every one of those 10 parts to be divided into ten more, which maketh 100, all those parts set down in the Table, are such parts.

CHAP. 44.

THe peece being loded in all points, as is before taught, and you al­so having brought the peece in a right line with the marke, the Dispart being placed upon the mussle ring, place your Ruler upon the base ring, and ha­ving before all this, taken the distance to the marke, and found it to be 461 yards: the first shot you made out of that peece for [Page 22] practice conveyed her shot 274 yards, at two degrees mounture, according to the rules before taught, 461 yards will require six degrees mounture, then to finde by this Table how many inches, and hundreth parts of an inch, six degrees will require, looke in the last Table, finding on the left hand, in the first colume the length of the peece 12 foot just, under six degrees in the common angle you shall find 15 inches, and 18.100 parts of an inch; which known, I set the bead that is on the string in the slit to 15 inches, and 13 parts, if the inch be divi­ded into 100, and cause the peece to be mo­ved either higher or lower, untill you see the bead, the top of the dispart, and the marke, all in one line, stop the peece at that position with a coyn, prime and give fire.

If you would shoot by the mettall of the peece without a dispart, subtract the length of the said dispart, out of the inches found in the Table, and the remainer mount your peece unto: if the dispart had beene three inches long, that taken out of the inches found in the Table being 15. 18.100. will leave 12. 18.100. to which heighth in the Rule without a dispart, you must mount the peece.

CHAP. 45.

IF you have not a Ruler nor Quadrant, and would make a shot just at five de­grees elevation, looke in the Table, and finde the length of the peece, which admit to be nine foot and an halfe, right against this, in the angle under five degrees, you shall have ten inches, to be the length of any streight stick, which you may set upon the base ring, and levell over the top of the said stick, as if it had been the bead in the Ruler, thus you may performe as much as with the Ruler, if you will have no dispart upon the peece, take it off, and lay it with the afore­said stick, from which cut off its just length, the remainer you may use upon the base ring, for when you have the top of it, the mettall of the mussle ring, and the marke in a right line, you cannot faile of making a [Page 24] good shot. If the dispart in this peece were two inches and an halfe, this cut from the length often inches, the number found in the Table, there will be left seven inches and an halfe, for the length of the stick, to be set on the base ring, to levell the peece with­out a dispart.

CHAP. 46.

WHen you shall have occasion to shoot at a light seene in the night time, dispart your peece with a lighted and unflaming wax candle, or with a lighted peece of match, that you may see by the light of the fire in the said Gun­match, to lay the middle and upmost part of the mettall, at the tayle of the peece; the top of the match, and the marke in one line, when this is done, give fire.

CHAP. 47.

IN the day time mount your peece (as you are before directed) to reach the ap­pointed marke, and at that time place the mouth or concavity of the peece right upon the said marke, then put the ruler that is fixed to the Quadrant into the mouth of the peece, note what degree is touched in the Quadrant by the plumb-line, and set it down in writing, or else keepe it in memory, after that, let fall a line and plummet down to the ground, from the middle part of the mouth of the peece, in the place where the plummet, toucheth the platforme make a marke, then carry your line and plummet to the breech of the peece, and let it hang to the ground, from the middle part of the [Page 26] breech, there also where it toucheth the ground or platforme likewise make another marke: between each, of these marks draw a line, and continue that line above two yards beyond each marke, this shall be called the line of direction. Now when you will shoot in a darke night with that peece at the same marke; charge the peece with the same quantity of pouder; as you did when you found by experience that such a degree w ^th you now must mount by, did hit the mark, and also with the like weight of shot, then bring your gun upon the line of direction, so that the middle of the mouth of your peece, and middle of the breech may be just over it, which you may bring to passe by help of the plummet, when this is done, elevate the peece so much by the Quadrant, as you did in the day time, and without question shee will reach the marke as before.

CHAH. 48.

WHen any horsmen or footmen shall passe by a place where a great peece of Artillery doth lye, the Gunner must charge the peece before-hand, with good powder, and fit shot, to this end that the peece may goe off so soone as fire is put to the same: also the Gunner in this case must lay his Gun truly disparted upon a levell ground, right against some marke in their way, as against some tree, bush, or hil­lock, and best of all if it be upon some turn­ing way, because in such a place they cannot depart very quickly, and when the said horsmen or footmen, shall come neere unto that marke, or be in the turning way, the [Page 28] Gunner must discharge his said peece at them: Likewise when a Gunner will shoot at a ship sayling in a river, he ought to plant his peece towards a cloud or some evident marke on the other side the river, and give fire to his peece when the fore part of the Ship shall begin to be between the mouth of the peece and the marke.

CHAP. 49.

MAster John Bate in his Booke of Extravagants, sayth, Take the quantity of a pease of Opium, and charge it amongst the case shot, and it will make the said case shot fly closer together, then otherwise it would, this Master Bate sayth, he learned of a Sea man, who had made triall hereof, as he sayes, and unto whom [Page 29] Master Bate sold some for that purpose; it is very probable, for Opium is of a congealing and fixative nature.

CHAP. 50.

WHen a peece of Artillery is char­ged with such a Shot, as will not be driven home unto the powder, then the Gunner to save this peece from breaking, must so imbase the mouth there­of, that faire water for two or three dayes, being put in at the touch hole, at severall times may run out into a vessell set under the mouth of the Gun, to save all the Salt Peeter that was in the powder, when these things are done, the Gunner must prime the peece and put so much in at the touch-hole, as [Page 30] will serve to drive out the shot. But when a rusty shot hath for a long time stuck fast within the peece, put strong Vineger in the mouth of the peece, and with the ram­mer strike the shot till it doe move, then poure the Vineger out again, if it have soaked through the powder, then prime with a little fresh powder, and give fire, if the Vineger could not passe by the shot a­mongst the powder, then moysten the said powder with some water or Vineger, when it is yet danke and moyst, prime the touch-hole with good powder, and give fire.

CHAP. 51.

This may be done with aire and water onely, having put cold water into the concavity of the peece, filling one quarter of the Cylinder, put in after it a Tampion of wood as long as broad, per­fectly made to fit the peece, with an oyled [Page 31] cloath about it, doubled either more or lesse, that it might be two mens strength to put it home, this done, put in the shot, elevate the peece a little, and make a fire under the hin­der part thereof, the touch-hole being very close stopped, then put the spunge of the peece in oyle, and wet all the Cylinder of the peece with oyle, that it may passe out the glibber: for when the fire hath rarified the water, it will burst out suddenly. The experiment which we have in long Trunks shooting out pellats with aire onely, proveth this also.

CHAP. 52.

I Have discharged a peece seven times in the space of 50 minutes, with the like weight of powder, shot, and elevation, and have found their ranges as following, [Page 32] the first shot was conveyed 416 paces, the second 436, the third 440, the fourth 432, the fifth 425, the sixth 410, the seventh 394, so that the greatest difference from the first shot, was 24 paces, these things must be kept in perfect memory, by every one that learneth to shoot at randon, or he shall be never good at that practice. The reason of these things is this, at the first shot the bul­let found the aire quiet, and at the second shoot, it did not onely finde the aire stirred with the first shoot, but also moving or ten­ding towards the place at which it shot, and because it is more easie to move and pene­trate that which is already moved and open, then that which is close and quiet, it follow­eth that the second shot finding in his range a lesse resistance then the first did, will out-fly the first.

A second reason is at the first shot the pou­der being put in the peece, doth often times finde the same somwhat moyst, especially when it hath not been shot in for certain dayes before, through which the pouder will not fire quickly, as it doth when the peece is dry and temperately warme, for this warmth or heat will somwhat dry up [Page 33] the moysture which is in the powder, and cause it to fire sooner; wherefore the pow­der doth not worke so forcibly in the first shoot as it doth in the second, the third shoot and fourth will be much like the second, now I will give you the reason, why as the peece grows hotter, one shot wil not out-shoot the last, before it, but every time come shorter and shorter.

The peece waxing hotter, and by how much the more hotter, by so much the more attractive is the concavity of the peece made, and because the shot is driven forth, or ex­pelled with no other thing then by the airy exhalation, or winde caused through the Salt peeter, therefore by making such a peece the more attractive with the more heate, which suppeth and reteineth continually more and more of that winde, which should serve to expell the bullet, the vertue expul­sive in that peece, doth continually more and more decrease, and the shot flyeth not with that swiftnesse as it did before; although the two first things, that is, the breaking of the aire, and the drying of the powder eve­ry time more and more, doth help much the range of the shot, which aide and help, as it [Page 34] is to be beleeved, that somtimes it supply­eth and perchance gives advantage by that expulsive vertue, which continually the peece doth diminish, or sup in according as it heateth, so that the third and fourth shoots will not be much differing from the second shoot, neverthelesse in continuance of time, the said two accidents (that is the opening of the aire and drying the powder by the heat of the peece) cannot supply the third acci­dent, that is, the vertue attractive, by reason the attraction is augmented as the peece heateth. This caused my sixth and seventh shoots to convey the bullet 22 paces shorter then my first It is reported by Nicholas Tartaglia, that many shoots being made at a battery by a peece, it chanced by some oc­casion, that the peece rose up in such sort that the mouth touched the ground, a little dog passing by, did smell unto the peeces mouth, and by so doing was fast joyned to the peeces mouth, and immediately after drawn into the said peece: which thing, when the standers by had seen, some of them ran to helpe the said dog, and although they found him to be drawn almost to the further end of the concavity, they pulled him out [Page 35] almost dead: This was done by the vertue attractive.

CHAP. 53.

FOr every hundred weight of mettall, one man: so a Peece of 8000 pound weight, requires 80 men: besides so many more men as the Carriage may weigh severall hundreds: for every 500 of mettall use one horse, then 16 horses will draw a Gun of 8000 weight, but in the Winter 24, also 17 yoke of Oxen, is thought sufficient to draw a Peece of 8000 weight, but in the Winter they need to be one third part more.

CHHP. 54.

THis Instrument is four square, with a Circle in the middle, divided into 360 degrees: the divisions on the squares, proceed from one; to ten; or from 10, to 100, the figure you may see before you; you may call this Instrument a Circum­ferenter, or Geometricall Square.

Sometimes you must use an Index, and at other times a Line, and Plummet, according as I shall (in the ensuing Treatise) give dire­ctions.

CHAP. 55.

FIrst, holding one side of your Square Parallel to the Horizon, move the In­dex upward, till thorow the sights thereof, you perceive the top of the Towre, or Castle; then look what part is cut by the Index, upon the Square, if it be of Right Shadow, multiply the distance to the base or foot of the Towre by 100, and divide by the parts cut, adding thereunto the height of your eye from the ground, but if of contrary or versed shadow, multiply the distance from the middle of your foot by the parts cut, and divide by 100, not forgetting as well as be­fore, to add the height of your eye from the ground.

If you finde it more covenienter to use [...]he plumb line then the Index, doe thus, fix the line upon the pin on which the Index [Page 38] did move, and make your observation through the sights on the side of your In­strument, marked with the letters A B, to the object you desire to know the aforesaid by, and the plummet line will cut the same division as the Index did formerly.

Suppose the Index or plumb-line cut the 35 ^th. division of the Scale of versed shadow, in making my observation towards the Ca­stle or Tower, and the distance thereunto be 135 yards, what will the heighth amount unto: because it is of Contrary or versed shadow, then as you are taught before, mul­tiply the distance from the middle of your legs to the base 135, by the parts cut 15, di­vide by 100, and the heighth will be found to amount to 75 yards and one quarter, a­bove your eye, whose heighth as it shall be found must be added to the aforesaid num­ber.

CHAP. 56.

IF you would take the Altitude of any Towre, Wall, Hill, or other Edifice which is unapproachable, either in re­gard of the enemy lying between, or of some Ditch, River, or other impediment, you shall proceed as followeth: first approach to the neerest and most convenient place for your purpose, where with your Instrument make observation; and note down, or re­member what parts are cut in the Scale, you must then goe back in a strait line, ac­cording to the commodiousnesse of the place, and make a second observation, noting as before, the parts cut in the Square, which will be either on the Right of Versed Sha­dow, if they fall both on the Versed Sha­dow, (which most often doth happen) you shall divide the side of the Square severally by the parts cut; and substract the lesser [Page 40] Quotient from the greater, and by the re­mainder, divide the distance between the two stations, to that adde the height of your eye from the Horizon, you have your de­sire.

Example. Suppose the parts cut at the first station be 45 (Versed Shadow) and at the second 30, (both Versed Shadow) I divide the whole side of the Square, which is 100, by these two Sums severally, and finde the one to be conteined 2 10/45 or in decimall parts thus, 2 222) the lat­ter number is contained 3 ⅓ or 3 333, by the difference I divide the distance of the stations, substract 2 222 out of 3 333, the difference will be 1 111, the Distance 24 yards, being thereby divided, the product will be 21 15, the height of mine eye 5 foot, these added will give the height, 22 yards, 2 foot, and 2 inches al­most, of the said object.

CHAH. 57.

WHen the parts cut in each station be of Right Shadow (which is very seldome) substract the lesser number of those from the greater, and put that in the first place: in The Golden Rule, or Rule of Three, the side of the Square in the second place, and the stationary distance in the third.

Example. Let the parts cut in the first station be 30, in the second 40, of right shadow, substract the lesser from the greater, the remainder is 10, the which shall be put in the first place of the golden Rule, the side of the Square being 100, in the second, and the distance between [Page 42] the two stations seven, in the third place, so the Rule standeth thus: As the difference of parts cut, is to the whole side, so is the diffe­rence of stations, to the height required, Or, as 10 to 100, so 7 to 70 the height.

CHAP. 58.

IF the parts cut in the neerest station be of Right Shadow, and the furthest be of Contrary Shadow, they shall be both reduced to one Shadow, after this manner, square the whole side which is 100, and di­vide the product by the parts cut of the ver­sed Shadow, and the Quotient will give the right Shadow: that being done, substract the lesser shadow from the greater, and the remainer will be the first place in the Rule of Three, the distance between the two sta­tions shall be the second, and the side of the Square the third.

Example. Let the parts of Right and Versed Shadow be both 30, I desire to bring them to be both Right: First, I square the whole side which here is 100, it maketh 10000, that Product I divide by the parts cut of Versed Shadow, which is 30, the Quotient is 333, and one third part; from whence substract 30 the right sha­dow, out of 333 and one third, the remainder is 303 and one third, for my first Terme, the di­stance between my two stations 13, for the se­cond, and the side of the Square 100. for the third, The Rule standeth thus, As 303 and one third, is to 13, so 100 is to 4 yards and 18 Inches.

CHAP. 59.

I Desire to know the Distance to a Towre in the wall of a City, because of pla­cing my Ordnance to dismount a Gun upon the same, I make choyce of a conve­nient place for my station, where placing mine Instrument, I bring the Index to the point C, to lye just upon the line D C; written in the figure, The Line Fiduciall, because from this line proceeds the begin­ning of the Degrees in the Circle, and it is most used, the Index being on this Line, move the Instrument till you perceive through the Sights the Towre: letting the Instrument rest firme, turn the Index di­rectly upon the other line marked with E G: looke through the Sights, and if you can espie any place or thing, that you can [Page 45] remember to finde exactly, take that for your second station, if you cannot espy wherewithall to remember, cause one to go towards such a place, that you can see through the Sights, with a handkirchief in his hand, when you espy that, bid him drop it upon the ground, and goe to that place, where set up your Instrument, and laying the ruler upon The Fiduciall Line, turn the Instrument untill you can espy through the Sights your first station, then letting the In­strument stand firme, turn the Index untill you can likewise espy the Towre through the Sights, and marke diligently what part it cuts in the Square, then: As the parts cut are to 100 (the Radix) so the distance be­tween the two stations, is as the Distance required.

Example. Suppose the parts cut were 5, the distance between the two stations 30 paces, then as 5 is to 100, so is 30 to 600 paces, the true distance to the Towre.

CHAP. 60.

FIrst of all, finde some convenient place in which set up your Instrument for your first station, and laying the Index upon the fiduciall line, turne the Instrument with the Index upon the aforesaid line, un­till you see such a place as you thinke most convenient, (for in this you may choose your second station, which by the practice in the last Chapter you could not doe,) The Instrument thus fixed, espie through the holes, every one of those places whose di­stance you would know, and write them down, I mean the degrees cut in the Cir­cle, with the name of the place, alwayes re­membring to begin so far on the left hand, as you have any marke that way; when you have noted them all down according as I [Page 47] have taught, goe to the second station, and place your Instrument there, lay the Index upon the fiduciall line, and looke back to the first station, and espie it through the holes, after this, be sure your Instrument be not stirred, then turn the Index to the first marke you tooke at the first station, and af­ter observation made, note it down, as at the first time, when you have observed all the marks: take your Instrument away, goe to a large Table, and with your Ruler draw a strait line, acrosse the Table, parallel to the Tables end, and about two foot one from another, describe two Circles, the former made line being a diameter to each Cir­cle. First, divide the distance between the centers of the two Circles into so many e­quall parts, as there were paces betwen your two stations, then divide the Circles. In each center fix a needle, and tie to each nee­dle so many silke thrids as you had marks, extend each of these at a great length, just cutting the degree in the Circle, that was cut in the Circle of the Instrument, when you made your Instrumentall observation, beginning first with the first marke, so pro­ceed, and the end of every thrid which [Page 48] must be very long, fasten to the Table with a little soft wax, when you have fastened all the thrids thus, that are on the first needle, which signifieth the first station, place those on the second needle as you did the other, with wax at their full extent, just over the Degree in the Circle, made on the Table, as you have noted was made upon your In­strument by observation, beginning with the first as you did before, and so likewise fasten them. Now to know the distance to these marks, looke where the first string of one Circle crosseth the first of the other, that place note for the first marke; looke where the second crosseth with the second, that note for the second marke; so likewise, for the third, fourth, &c. till you have noted all the marks down, then with a paire of Compasses measure the distance unto any marke in paces or yards, according as the Scale between the Circles is divided, and what distance you finde to be, either be­tween one marke and another, or between the stations and the marks, is the true di­stance between those marks, or between ei­ther of your stations and marks, in paces, yards, or feet, according to the division of [Page 49] your Scale, but if the first, second or third thrid, &c. in one Circle, doe not tend to the same marks that you have noted in the observation, as the first, second, and third doth in the other Circle, then you are to make the marke where two thrids crosse that doe tend to the same marks.

CHAP. 61.

IT behoveth every Master Gunner, of a Towne, Castle, or other Fort, to draw a description of his said Garrison, and of every notable object within Cannon shot, for he having a Map of all these things, need not be troubled to take the distance every time he hath occasion to shoot at the enemy, for by his Map and the objects without the Garrison therein described, he may be able to estimate how far or neer the enemy doth reside. To make a description of the Gar­rison, [Page 54] he is to doe thus, set up his Instrument first upon the shoulder of the Bulwarke, and observe the angle thereof, by placing his In­dex first upon the Fiduciall line, and moving the Square untill you may perceive the Flan­ker, then letting the Instrument remain fix­ed, turne the Index till you can see the Dia­mond point through the holes, the Degree cut is the angle of that shoulder, with a chain or line, measure the distance to the point of the Bulwarke, and measure that Angle as you did the former, by espying through the Sights (the Ruler or Index lying upon the Fiduciall line) the place where you stood last on the shoulder, from the Diamond point measure the distance to the second station, and observe the angle of that as be­fore is taught; first, by looking back through the sights, the Index lying upon the Fiduci­all line to the Diamond point, then turning the Index, looke to the angle at the flanke, note as before the degrees of the Angle: Then departing from that place, measure to the angle of the Flank, there also set up your Instrument, first looking through the sights at the place you were last at, turn the Index and looke straight along the Curtain, [Page 55] to the angle where it joyneth with the Flank, then goe to that angle, measuring the Cur­tain as you goe, comming thither, set up the Instrument as before, first looking through the holes in the Index at the place you were last at, the other observation make at the first shoulder of this second Bulwark, and so proceed from Bulwark to Bulwark untill you come round the Garrison, noting all those observations down with the di­stance between them, you may be able to make your Map. I have but a short time to write, otherwise I would have given you the figure of the Cities of Worcester and Coven­try, and examples how they were drawn, but hoping the ingenious practizer will by what I have already said, be able to doe these things, this direction shall suffice. To know the distance to any places without the Gar­rison, you must take them as I have taught in the two last Chapters, and then annex them to your Map.

CHAP. 1.

THe best Morter-peeces are made of the same mettall that brasse Ord­nance are made of, and being to be made, let the measures following be obser­ved. [Page 56] If the Diameter or bore be nine inch­es, let the morter be one foot and an halfe in length, and let the chamber in which you load your peece with powder be three inches diameter, and foure inches and a halfe deepe, the thicknesse of the mettall about the touch-hole three inches, and the upper part thereof one inch and a quarter.

CHAP. 2.

MOst commonly the shot for great Morter-peeces are one tenth part lower then the bore, because of cording them to sling into the mouth of the peece, and for feare of secret cracks, that can­not easily be espyed, they are coated with pitch, so that being prepared, they doe but just fit the bore.

CHAP. 3.

THe operation of these Granades made of canvas, is quite contrary to those already set down, these are [Page 60] onely fit to fire a Town, they are not of so violent execution as the precedent yet alto­gether as costly in the making; for the ma­king of them fill a piece of canvass upon a round ball of wood, so big as you would have your Granadoe. Then make this compo­sition following, four pound of Salt-peeter, two pound of Gun-powder dust, and two pound of Brimstone: all these incorporated and moystned with oile of Salt-peeter, fill your case with this compound, and cover it with cords, which done pierce the sack full of holes with a good bodkin, and in every hole place a little iron barrell, charged like a Pistoll: these must be driven into the sack up to the head, the Granadoe being thus prepa­red, let there be made a hole about one inch deep, which shall serve to prime it with powder-dust, moystened with oyle of Pe­troll; you may make all those barrels of old musket barrels, or of other pieces either lit­tle or bigger, onely leave wide touch-holes, to the end the rust stop them not, so they may be preserved many years; and ready for service at all occasions.

CHAP. 4.

GEt a long shaft of wood, and joyne unto it an iron head, after the man­ner of the figure, in the margent; and about the middle of that head make first a linnen bag, in form of an Egg, leaving open

[Page 66] at the end before a hole, that it may be fit­ted with the composition following. Take one pound of Petor, half a pound of Gun-powder, and as much Brimstone in powder; all these ingredients being well mixed, and mingled with oile of Petrioll: with these fill the bag round about the arrow head: then let all be bound about with wire, and for the priming of these, dip Cotton-weeke into Gun-powder wet with water, let the Cotton be well dryed again before it be applyed. Now for the joyning of your wooden shaft to the arrow head, it ought to be done so slightly; that being fast­ned into any thing, those may be deceived, and pull it onely away, & to hinder that one may not pluck out the head with their hands; there may be made a small hole quite tho­row backwards, and so a man will be pre­vented in assaying to pull it off; although it stick in his fellows clothes.

CHAH. 5.

THere ought to be great care taken in the loading or charging of the Mor­ter, which must be done thus; First, wey the powder to a dram, that you put in the Chamber, and after it put a good close wad of hey (for to my knowledge and deep experience it is very uncertain shooting, you using in stead of hey, a tampion of wood) which done cut up a turff of the ground, that may fill the bottom of the bole, or bore, of the Morter, next the wad: your Granadoe being prepared, as is before taught, with a coat of pitch and chord, sling it into the mouth of the Morter, observing to have the Fuse of the Granadoe in the middle of the bore: then go to the britch, thrust up a wire into the touch-hole, to make all sure, then prime with speciall dry powder, such as you [Page 68] are sure will take fire, this being the whole businesse in which your life and Motter-peece both stand in jeopardy: I will give you very sure directions to give fire.

Provide small Fuses, such as I taught you to make before for the shels, but a great deal lesse; about one quarter of an inch bore, three quarters in thicknesse, and eight inches long: fill these with good pouder dust, moystned with oyle of Salt-peeter, you must moysten it but a little, and put it in with an iron ram­mer, try whether you like the time they con­tinue burning, if too slow, abate oyle of Pee­ter, if otherwise, adde it thereunto.

These being made ready, the use of them is thus: thrust the pike of your Linstock in at one end of the Fuse you mean to give fire withall, bid one of your assistants come on one side of the mouth of the peece, and give fire to your fuse, wherewith fire the Fuse in the Morter, and then with great speed give fire to the touch-hole.

These Fuses are very certain to give fire, but Match doth oft times faile.

CHAP. 6.

YOu are to get leave of your Superi­ours to try one, two or three shoots for practice, without breaking the shell; if you have leave fill the shell with powder, and put it out again, and wey it: fill the same shell with so many pound of earth: then take a Fuse, and at the end tye 3 ounces of powder; which put down with the Fuse into the hole amongst the earth; making such way first with the end of some staffe, that the powder be not torn from the Fuse; this being thus put in, take the square where with you measure distances, place it upon the mouth of the peece, if it be big enough, if not help it with a longer Ruler, let that side of the Instrument marked in its figure with A K, lye either upon the brim of the [Page 70] Peece, if it will reach if not upon the rule, take off the Index and hang on the plum­met, ever observing to mount your Peece above 45 degrees, then elevate the Peece at what randon you please, noting it downe; then make your shot, getting those that stand by to go and observe whether the Fuse burn all the while of the Granadoes flight; and when the three ounces of powder take fire: for hereby you may mend the Fuse, and try

[Page 71] whether it will keep fire, these things ob­served, measure that distance, and place it in your note, under the degree you mounted by, as also the weight in powder the Morter used. When you by two or three shoots, have gathered experience, both of your fuse, and of the true range of your Peece: take the distance to the Town, Fort, or other mark, you are to shoot at; then to know at what degree to mount the Morter-peece do thus, by the Rule of Proportion Reverse, as the di­stance (when you made your tryall) is to the degrees cut, so the distance to your as­signed mark, is to such a degree of the Cir­cle that you must mount your Peece unto: To make more easie, I will give you an Ex­ample.

Suppose, that you made your experimen­tall shot at 46 degrees, and your ball ranged 320 paces, how many more degrees must you mount the Morter to shoot 280 paces: that being the distance to your assigned mark: multiply 320 by 46, and there ari­seth 14720, which divide by 280, you shall have 52 degrees, and above half one, to which you must mount, to reach the ap­pointed place.

[Page 72] Note, That if you are to play a Morter-peece along time against a Fort, you are to ceaze upon a barrell of the best powder in the Magazine, and keep it for your use; also go into some place free from fire and stir this powder, that in case one end be weaker then the other, you may mend that defect: for I do assure you, that if you change your pow­der, you have lost all your experience, and are as new to begin again, as at the first time: also beware of using tampions, let one man constantly put in the wad, giving him charge to make the like wad, and use the same strength, so neer as hee can, which hee did before; wash every one of your shels before you coat or put the chord upon them, when you have made them clean, put a little pow­der into one of them, and give fire to it with a match, then suddenly clap a clot of clay upon the hole; then observe diligently whe­ther any smoke come out on the sides, if it do then that must be very carefully coated, or not used, but those that vent no smoke: you may trust to be good ones.

Another observation I will tell you of, that is, you must by the helpe of a great paire of Scales wey every shot, and make [Page 73] them all even of a weight, by putting there into so many Musquet bullets as will make them even, this being done, fill that which is heaviest, (for without doubt that will con­tein least powder) put the powder out again, and wey that powder; such a quantity, and no more, fill all your Granadoes with­all.

CHAP. 7.

HAving taught how to make Grana­does for the Morter-peece, and that in an easier and plainer way then any ever before me hath done to my knowledg: I will shew how to prepare some small Gra­nadoes for the hand, the effects whereof are no lesse esteem then the other, chiefly in as­saults; whether it be for the offendants or defendants; First of all fill these small shels with fine Gunpowder, then make a Fuse of [Page 74]

one pound of Gunpowder, six ounces of Salt-peeter, and one of Charcole, or if you would have them of lesse durance, you may take of the composition made for the Fuses of great Granadoes, knock the Fuse up to the head within one quarter of an inch: which is onely to finde it by in the night, stop well the rest of the hole in the Granadoe, (if any chinks are open) with soft wax: then coat [Page 75] it with pitch and hurds, least it should break with the fall, and be sure when you have fi­red the Fuse, suddenly to cast it out of your hand.

CHHP. 8.

BEcause every souldier wil not meddle with hand Granadoes, the using of them being somwhat dangerous, I will here teach another kinde of Fire-works which is little lesse offensive, for the making thereof, you are to use these ingredients: Take four pound of Gunpowder in dust, one pound of Charcole dust, two pound of Tar, two of Salt-peeter, and one pound of Ro­sin; all these ingredients being well incorpo­rated, and heat over the fire, steep tow or flax in the same, and then wrap the tow, and flax about a hoop, and then cover all this a­gain with Gunpowder dust; and in time of [Page 76]

need give fire to them, & cast them amongst your enemies, this is to be observed, that the hoops ought not to be too large, but falling upon a many souldiers they may there stay and stick, and [...]o make them more trouble­some, and entangling, two of them may be tyed a-crosse one another; and then falling upon any man he cannot choose but be much astonished, with such a fearfull element, and put his company in great disorder.

CHAP. 9.

WHosoever would make exactly a Petard, ought to cast a Morter, much like unto an Apothecaries; but a great deal deeper, if you make it to wey 36 pound, the concavity must contein six pound of powder, if you add or dimi­nish more or lesse mettall, doe so likewise with the Calliber or bore, for the charging of this Petard, fill it onely with the best Gun-powder you can, to the brim almost, and then cover it with a round board, made fit for the purpose, and for the priming there­of make a Potfire, or Fuse, of slow compo­sition, of what length you please, this must be put down a hole in the middle of the co­ver of wood, a good way into the powder, if the Peece have no touch-hole, and close waxed about that no sparke of fire should get in, and the Petard is prepared, to breake open the place you desire if it be accessible, then with the breech of the Petard, upon the ground, or some great stone, or piece [Page 78]

of wood, and the mouth against the part of the door, or gate, but if the place be unacces­sible, then make a little Cart with two, or four wheels, and so support the recoyle of the Petard, shooting off: The Petard must be made fast to a long beams end, that must go a-crosse the ditch or moat, the rest of the beam and heaviest part thereof resting upon the Wheels, able to counterpoyse the other [Page 79] part thereof, together with the Petard: and it is prepared for to make a breach in a slen­der wall, or door, or gate, unaccessible.

CHAP. 10.

I Will not teach how to make Moulds, Needles, &c. for such men as are curious in these things, let them buy Master Bate, Master Babington, or for a need Master Malthus Fire-works: that which I will one­ly do shall be to teach to make them without Moulds, or any other thing then a rouler to roule the paper upon: for such I use to make, having all other devises that are taught by the aforesaid learned men, but make little use of them; to make Rockets my way do thus, cause a Rowler to be turned in a lathe, what thicknesse you please: onely let the rouler be 8 times the diameter therof in length, if it be [Page 80] three quarters of an inch in thicknesse, the length will be three inches, roule your pa­per hard on the rouler, till it make an inch and one quarter the whole thicknesse rouler and all, then glue the uppermost paper, and the case is made, onely choaking or contra­cting the paper together, (within one diame­ter of the bore of the end) except one little hole, about one quarter the Diameter of the bore thereof: to contract these cases on this manner, doe thus, wet the end about one inch in water, then put the rouler in again, and tye a great packthrid about the wet, within three quarters of an inch of the end, put another thing almost of the same diame­ter of the rouler in at the wet end about halfe an inch, hold it there, get some other body to draw the packthrid together, you holding the rouler and rammer, one put downe to the end within one inch, and the rammer which must be a little lesse in diameter, to meet with that end within halfe an inch, in which place the contract or choaking must be, the packthrid having drawn it together, tye it fast on that place, take out the former, let it dry and it is done: when the hole is contracted together, make it so wide, as is [Page 81] before taught, with a round Bodkin, which you must provide for that purpose.

A The mouth of the Rocket. B so far must the Bodkin be thrust up the middle. You must have a smaller Bodkin (which when your Roc­kets are filled with com­position, and tyed to the rod) you must thrust this Bodkin in at the mouth, straight up to the midst of the Rocket, having a care of thrusting it nee­rer one side then the o­ther.

CHAP. 11.

THese wayes which I will teach you, I take them not upon trust out of Authors to that purpose, but have experimented what I teach, and first for Rockets of one ounce, you must use onely Cannon-powder dust, being beaten in a morter and finely scarsed, which riseth very swift, making a great noyse, but carries no taile: those of most beauty in their operation are made, with putting one ounce of char­cole dust, to eight ounces of powder, this composition will hold for Rockets of one, two, and three ounces; but for those of foure, take three ounces of charcole to one pound of Cannon-powder dust, continuing that rule, untill you come to Rockets of ten ounces, and from thence to Rockets of a pound, one pound powder dust, and foure [Page 83] ounces of charcole dust: bigger then these I have no experience of.

CHAP. 12.

SEt your Rockets mouth upon the edge of a [...]y peece of timber, battlement of a wall, top of the Gunners carriage wheele, or any dry place whatsoever, where the rod or twigge may hang perpendicular from it, then lay a train of powder that may come under the mouth thereof, give fire thereunto and you have done. But if you would fire more Rockets then one, that as one descendeth the other may ascend by degrees, make this composition following, of Roch peeter 8 ounces, Quick Brimstone 4 ounces, and fine Powder dust 2 ounces, which lay in a line from one rocket to ano­ther, they being placed ten inches or a foot [Page 85] one from another, give fire to this composi­tion, and it will worke your desire, by cau­sing one to mount into the aire when the o­ther is spent, but before you place your Rockets, remember to prick them with the bodkin, as I have taught you in the tenth Chapter, at the latter end thereof.

CHAP. 13.

CHAP. 14.

TAke litle four squar pieces of brown paper, which fill with the composi­tion you approve of best, of the three last taught: so double it down, rouling it untill you make it round, about the big­nesse of a nut, or bigger, according to the size of your Rocket, that you intend them for, prime them, with drawing thorow them Cotton-week, and they are prepared.

You may also make them after this man­ner, you must have a rouler which must be as big as an ordinary arrow, which shall be to roule a length of paper about it, and with a little glue past it round; when it is dry draw out the rouler, and fill it by little and little, with a thimble: still thrusting it down, every filling of a thimble, with the rouler; which being filled cut it in short pieces, a­bout half an inch long, then having in readi­nesse [Page 88] either hot glue, or size, mingled with red lead; dip therein one end of your short peeces, lest they take fire at both ends toge­ther; and because that it may not so easily blow out: these being thus finished, set them to dry untill you have occasion to use them: and then putting the open end in powder on the top of the Rocket, in that place after the first pastboard; or cover, is placed in a Roc­ket; next the composition, where I taught you before to put powder for to make a re­port: which now you must leave out to place in these Stars; after this manner make two or three holes in that pastboard, which prime with powder-dust: and thereupon put a little Pistoll powder, to blow the Stars out, when the Rocket is spent: after the powder, put as I have said before, the open ends of these Stars, down upon that powder: when you have put them so close as they can stick one by the other, put a little small cor­ned powder on the top of them, to run be­tween them, and put another tyre of Stars upon that, and in like manner a third tyre upon them, till you come to the top of the Rocket-case, there put a paper over the head of it, and tye it close about the top, that [Page 89] none of the powder come from under or be­tween the Stars.

CHAP. 15.

NOw I shew you the order of making golden Rain, which is after this manner, you must provide store of Goose-quils, which being provided, you [Page 90] must cut them off so long as they are hol­low, the composition to fill these must be made thus; two ounces of cole-dust to one pound of powder well mixed; having fil­led many of these quils, you shall place them in the same place as I taught you to put the powder and Stars, first putting a small quantity of Pistol powder under them, to blow them out when the Rocket is spent: upon this put your quils, as many as will fill the top of the case, with the open end down­wards, so soon as the Rocket is spent, you shall see appeare a golden showre, which by some is called golden Rain, the like way you may make silver Rain; filling the quils with the Composition for white Stars.

CHAP. 16.

YOu must provide a smal rouling pin, about one quarter of an inch in thicknesse, upon which roule seven or eight thicknesses of paper: fill them foure inches with powder dust, somtimes putting between the filling a little of the Composi­tion for Rockets of 10 ounces: and at the end of foure inches choak him, fill two in­ches more with Pistoll powder; then choak the end up: at the other end put in a little of the mixture for Stars, and choake betweene that & the composition, & you have done: put divers of these with the Starry end downwards, upon the head of a Rocket, as you did the quils, with powder to blow them out, when the Rocket is spent, they will first appeare like so many Stars, when the Stars are spent, taking hold of the pow­der [Page 92] dust; they will run wrigling to and fro like Serpents, and when that Composition is spent, they will end with every one a re­port, which will give great content. I shall have occasion to speak of these Fisgigs in o­ther Fire-works.

CHAP. 17.

A Fire Wheele, is often required in great Works for pleasure, and there­fore I have thought fit and necessary, to set downe their description: as well as of all other sorts of Fire-works; First, you must make a Wheele of Wood, so big as you please to make Girondels, and unto these binde Rockets very fast of a mean bignesse, with the mouth of one towards the tayle of another, thus continuing untill you have fil­led your Wheele quite round, which done, cover them with paper pasted very curi­ously, that one taking fire, they may not [Page 93] take fire altogether; and daube Sope upon them quite round, leaving the mouth of one of them open to give fire thereto, for the first Rocket having burned, will give fire to the next; keeping the Wheele in continuall motion, untill they be all spent: there may be bound fire Lances, to these Girondels, either upright, or neer, overthwart, which will make to appear diversity of fiery Cir­cles; Your care must be, to place the Gi­rondels at a convenient distance, from other Fire-Works: lest they should cause confusi­on, and spoyle all your Work.

CHAP. 18.

I Have taught you to make a report upon the head of a Rocket, and also to place golden or silver Haire or Rain, or Stars, or Fisgigs, which when you have divers Rockets to make for a great Fire-work, let one be with a report, the next with Stars, [Page 94] another with Gold Haire, or Rain, one with Silver Haire or Rain, for standing just under the Rocket it appeareth like Rain, but being aside hand like Golden or Silver Haire: and upon the head of another Rocket place the Fisgigs, which when the Rocket is spent will first appear like so many Stars after they are ended, they will shew like Serpents wrig­ling to and fro, and lastly, give every one his report.

CHAH. 19.

THe use of these Lances is much re­quired in all great Fire-Works, and I taught you before to use them in the Fire-Wheels, the manner of their ma­king is thus, you must make Cartouches or cases just like the cases for Rockets: onely these for a need may be made of pastboard, and glued as they are a rouling of them, if for great ones; but it is best to make little ones of paper, the case being provided, let them be filled with the dry composition for Stars; in the thirteenth Chapter of this Book: prime them with wet Gunpowder, the lower end of the case is stopped with a piece of wood, to the end they may be nai­led, and stuck, when, and where, they shall [Page 97] be used, the wood being about three fingers breadth long, out of the Cartouch.

CHAP. 20.

HAving prepared a rocket with a re­port in the head, such as I taught you first to make, tye it to a bladder, so that the end of the rocket may come to the mouth of the said bladder, and binde it over very strongly, then firing it out of your hand, cast it away from you, it matters not which way, so it wil come to the ground; there by reason of the bladder it cannot stay, but presently rebounds upwards, moving to and fro, untill all be spent: there is ano­ther sort, and that is a small rocket, put into bladder, and so blown up round about it, and tyed about the neck thereof, which will have delightfull motions.

CHAP. 21.

FIrst, you must provide a wooden rowler, twice so long as in diameter, you must have it of such bignesse as you desire to make the inside of your Bal­loone, upon which rouler let there be rouled so many pastbords as you shall thinke suffi­cient for strength, being well glued together: then choak this Cartouch at the one end, leaving a little hole for a port-fire, as shall follow, and glue it in, this por-tfire shall be made just like a Rocket, of the bignesse of the hole you leave open for it, and filled with composition for Rockets of that size, not pricking it with a bodkin, as you are taught to prick other Rockets, and to know of what length this port-fire ought to be, it will not be amisse to try one Balloon filled with earth, and your port-fire fastned there­unto: [Page 99]

Now to fill the Balloon place all your Serpents within it, together with Stars, Roc­kets and Crackers, in such a convenient man­ner that there may be very little void room, within the Cartouch: it being thus filled, put in as much powder dust as you can that it may run every where thorow the chinks, between the Serpents, Rockets, and Stars, that they may all fire; and that the said powder dust may break the Balloon: these [Page 100] things being thus disposed choak up the o­ther end close, and charge it in the morter as I have taught you to do the canvass Gra­nade; and you may shoot it when you please.

Such Balloons I have at this present, and doe assure the Reader, that this description is in every part proved, and practized by my self; to the knowledge of divers spectators, who have seen these experimented, I do al­so signifie to the ingenious Reader, that it is not good to use so many ingredients (in Fire works) as the Ancient, nor so few as some Modern.

CHAP. 22.

BEcause that divers men in their pra­ctising Fire-works, one time or other chance to be burned by them, and also by the blowing up of Gunpowder ma­ny are burned in the face, or elswhere. I will shew you such salves which I have cured my self withall, I having them out of Ma­ster [Page 101] Malthus his Fire-works, and experimen­ted them upon my selfe to my great good when I was burned.