Mundus Muliebris: OR, THE LADIES Dressing-Room UNLOCK'D, And her TOILETTE SPREAD.
In Burlesque.
Together With the FOP-DICTIONARY, Compiled for the Use of the FAIR SEX.
The Second Edition. To which is added a most rare and incomparable Receipt, to make Pig, or Puppidog-Water for the Face.
LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, in Russel-Street in Covent-Garden. 1690.
PREFACE.
THis Paper was not to come abroad without a Preface, as well as Comment, for Instruction of our young Master, who newly launch'd from the Vniversity (where he has lost a year or two) is not yet Travell'd, or if happily he has made le petit Tour (with the formal thing his Governour Whom the French call Maître des ours, a Bearward.) having never yet Read Tully's Offices through, since he came from School, sets up for a Bean, and Equipp'd for the Town at his Return, comes to seek Adventures in an Ocean full of Rocks, and Shelves, and wants a Skilful Pilot to Steer him, as much as any Vessel that goes to the Indies; and oftentimes returns home Leaky, and as poorly Freighted, as those who have been near Shipwrack'd, or lost their Voyage.
It is for direction of such as are setting out towards this Great and Famous Emporium (whether the design be for Miss or Marriage) what Cargo he must provide; not as Merchants do for America, Glass-Beads, and Baubles, in exchange for Gold and Pearl; but Gold and Pearl, and all that's precious, for that which is of less value than Knives and Childrens Rattles.
[Page]You see, Squires, what you are to prepare for as Adventurers, or by way of Barter, if you think to Traffick here, and to carry the Fair One, especially if she be at her own disposal (or being come some considerable time out of the Country) has been initiated into the Conversation of the Town▪ The Refined Lady expects her Servants and humble Admirers should Court her in the Forms and D [...]encies of making Love in Fashion: In order to this, you must often Treat her at the Play, the Park, and the Musick; present her at the Raffle, follow her to Tunbridge at the season of drinking of Waters, though you [...]ave no need of them your self: You must improve [...]l occasions of celebrating her Shape, and how [...]ll the Mode becomes her, though it be never so Fantastical and Ridiculous; that she Sings like an Angel, Dances like a Goddess; and that you are Charm'd with her Wit and Beauty: Above all, you must be sure to find some Fault or Imperfection in all other Ladies of the Town, and to laugh at the Fopps like your self: With this, a little Practice will qualifie you for the Conversation and Mystery of the Ruelle; and if the whole Morning be spent between the Glass and the Comb, that your Perruque sit[?] well, and Cravat-Strings be adjusted as things of importance; with these and the like accomplishments you'll emerge a consummate Beau, Angl [...]ce, a Co—But the Dancing-Master will still be necessary to preserve your good Meen, and fit you for the Winter-Ball.
Thus you see, young Sparks, how the Stile and Method of Wooing is quite changed, as well as the Language, since the days of our Fore-Fathers (of unhappy [Page] Memory, simple and plain Men as they were) who Courted and chose their Wives for their Modesty, Frugality, keeping at Home, Good-Housewifery, and other Oeconomical Virtues then in Reputation: and when the young Damsels were taught all these in the Country, and their Parents Houses, the Portion they brought was more in Virtue than Money, and she was a richer Match than one who could have brought a Million, and nothing else to commend her. The Presents which were made when all was concluded, were a Ring, a Necklace of Pearl, and perhaps another fair Iewel, the Bona Paraphernalia of her prudent Mother, whose Nuptial Kirtle, Gown and Petticoat lasted as many Anniversaries as the happy Couple liv'd together, and were at last bequeathed with a Purse of old Gold, Rose-Nobles, Spur-Royals, and Spankers, as an House-Loom to her Grand-Daughter▪
They had Cupboards of Ancient, useful Plate, whole Chests of Damask for the Table, and store of fine Holland Sheets (white as the driven Snow) and fragrant of Rose and Lavender for the Bed; and the sturdy Oaken Bedstead, and Furniture of the House, lasted a whole Century; the Shovel-Board, and other long Tables both in Hall and Parlour were as fixed as the Freehold; nothing was moveable save Ioynt-Stools, Black Iacks, Silver Tankards, and Bowls: And though many things fell out between the Cup and the Lip, when Nappy Ale, March Beer, Metheglin, Malmesey, and Old Sherry got the Ascendant amongst the Blew-Coats, and Badges, they sung Old Symon, and Chevi Chase, and danc'd brave Arthur, and were able to draw a Bow that made the proud Monsieur tremble [Page] at the Whizze of the Grey-Goose-Feather: 'Twas then Ancient Hospitality was kept up in Town and Country, by which the Tenants were enabled to pay their Landlords at punctual day: the Poor were relieved bountifully, and Charity was as warm as the Kitchin, where the Fire was perpetual.
In those happy days, Sure-Foot, the Grave and steady Mare, carried the Good Knight and his Courteous Lady behind him to Church, and to visit the Neighbourhood, without so many Hell-Carts, Ratling Coaches, and a crue of Damme Lacqueys, which a Grave Livery Servant or two supply'd, who rid before and made way for his Worship.
Things of Vse were Natural, Plain, and Wholesome, nothing was superfluous, nothing necessary wanting; and Men of Estate studied the Publick Good, and gave Example of true Piety, Loyalty, Iustice, Sobriety, Charity, and the good Neighbourhood compos'd most differences: Perjury, Suborning Witnesses, Alimony, Avowed Adulteries, and Misses (publickly own'd) were Prodigies in those days, and Laws were Reason, not Craft, when Mens Titles were secure, and they served their Generation with Honour; left their Patrimonial Estates improv'd to an Hopeful Heir, who passing from the Free School to the Colledge, and thence to the Inns of Court, acquainting himself with a competent Tincture of the Laws of his Country, followed the Example of his worthy Ancestors; and if he Travell'd abroad, it was not to count Steeples, and bring home Feather and Ribbon, and the Sins of other Nations; but to gain such Experience as rendred him useful to his Prince and Country upon occasion, and confirm'd him in the Love of both of 'em above any other.
[Page]The Virgins and Young Ladies of that Golden Age, Prov. 31.13.19. quaesierunt lanam & linum; put their hands to the Spindle, nor disdain'd they the Needle; were obsequious, and helpful to their Parents; instructed in the Managery of the Family, and gave Presages of making excellent Wives; nor then did they Read so many Romances, see so many Plays, and smutty Farces; set up for Visits, and have their days of Audience, and Idle pass-time. Honest Gleek, Ruff and Honours, diverted the Ladies at Christmas, and they knew not so much as the Names of Ombre, Comet, and Basset. Their Retirements were Devout and Religious Books, and their Recreations in the Distillatory, the knowledge of Plants and their Virtues, for the comfort of their poor Neighbours, and use of the Family, which wholsome plain Dyet, and Kitching Physick preserved in perfect Health: In those days, the Scurvy, Spleen, &c. were scarce heard of, till Foreign Drinks and Mixtures were wantonly introduc'd. Nor were the young Gentlewomen so universally afflicted with Hysterical Fits; nor, though extreamly modest, at all Melancholy, or less Gay, and in good Humour; they could touch the Lute, and Virginal, sing like to the Damask Rose—and their Breath was as sweet as their Voices: They danc'd the Canarys, Spanish Pavan, and Selengers Round upon Sippets, with as much Grace and Loveliness, as any Monsieur, or Italian of them all, can Teach with his Fop-call, and Apish Postures.
To shew you then, how the World is alter'd among us, since Foreign Manners, the Luxury (more than Asiatick, which was the final Ruine of the Greatest, Wisest, and most Noble Monarchy upon Earth) has universally obtain'd among us, corrupting ancient simplicity; and in [Page] what extravagant Form the young Gallant we describ'd, is to Court the Sex, and make his Addresses, (whether his Expedition be for Marriage or Mistress) it has been thought good by some Charitable hands, that have contributed to this Catalogue, to present him with an Enumeration of particulars, and Computation of the Charges of the Adventurer, as follows.
A VOYAGE to MARRYLAND; OR, THE LADIES DRESSING-ROOM.
THE Fop-Dictionary; OR, AN Alphabetical Catalogue OF THE Hard and Foreign Names, and Terms of the Art Cosmetick, &c.
Together With their Interpretations, for Instruction of the Unlearned.
LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, in Russel-Street in Covent-Garden. 1690.
THE Fop-Dictionary. OR; An Alphabetical Catalogue of the hard and foreign Names, and Terms of the Art COSMETICK, &c. together with their Interpretations, for Instruction of the Unlearned.
- Attache.
- ANy thing which fastens to another, &c.
- Bas de soye shot through.
- Silk [...]Stockings with Gold, or Silver thread wove int [...] the Clock.
- Berger.
- A pla [...] Lock ( a la Shepherdesse) turn'd up with a [...]uff.
- [Page 16] Bourgoigne.
- The first part of the Dress for the Head next the Hair.
- Branches.
- Hanging Candlesticks, like those used [...] C [...]rches.
- Brasiere.
- A large Vessel, or moving-Hearth of [...] for Coals, transportable into any Room [...] used in Spain.
- Calumbuc.
- A certain precious Wood, of an agreeable Scent, brought from the Indies.
- Campaine.
- A kind of narrow picked Lace.
- Casset.
- A Dressing Box.
- Cassolet.
- Perfuming Pot or Censer.
- Choux.
- The great round Boss or Bundle, resembling a Cabbage, from whence the French give it that name.
- Cofre-fort.
- A strong Box of some precious or hard wood, &c. bound with gilded Ribs.
- Colbertine.
- A Lace resembling Net-work, of the Fabrick of Monsieur Colbert, Superintendent of the French Kings Manufactures.
- Collaret.
- A sort of Gorget.
- Commode.
- A Frame of Wire, cover'd with Silk, on which [Page 17] the whole Head-Attire is adjusted at once upon a Bust, or property of Wood carved to the Breasts, like that which Perruque-Makers set upon their Stalls.
- Confidants.
- Smaller Curles near the Ears.
- Cornet.
- The upper Pinner, dangling about the Cheeks, like Hounds Ears.
- Cosmeticks.
- Here used for any Effeminate Ornament, also artificial Complections and Perfumes.
- Creve-coeur.
- Heart-breakers, the two small curl'd Locks at the Nape of the Neck.
- Crochet.
- The Hook to which are chain'd the Ladies Watch, Seals, and other Intaglias, &c.
- Cruches.
- Certain smaller Curles, placed on the Forehead.
- Cuppée.
- A kind of Pinner.
- Echelles.
- A Pectoral, or Stomacher lac'd with Ribbon, like the rounds of a Ladder.
- Engageants.
- Deep double Ruffles, hanging down to the Wrists.
- Favorites.
- Locks dangling on the Temples.
- Ferula.
- An Instrument of Wood us'd for Correction of [Page 18] lighter faults, more sensibly known ot School-Boys than to Ladies.
- Fil-grain'd.
- Dressing-Boxes, Baskets, or whatever else is made of Silver Wire-work.
- Flandan.
- A kind of Pinner joyning with the Bonnet.
- Firmament.
- Diamonds, or other precious Stones heading the Pins which they stick in the Tour, and Hair, like Stars.
- Frelan.
- Bonnet and Pinner together.
- Font-Ange.
- The Top-Knot, so call'd from Mademoiselle de Fontange, one of the French King's Mistresses, who first wore it.
- Gris.
- The Grey Furr of Squirrels bellies.
- Iaponian.
- Any thing Varnish'd with Laccar, or China Polishing, or that is odd or fantastical.
- Iardinée.
- That single Pinner next the Bourgogne.
- Loo Mask.
- An half Mask.
- Martial.
- The Name of a famous French Perfumer, emulateing the Frangipani of Rome.
- Miroir.
- In general, any Looking-Glass; but here, for [Page 19] the Table, Toilet, or Pocket Sprunking-Glass.
- Molionet.
- The Instrument us'd to mingle Chocolate with the Water.
- Monte la haut.
- Certain degrees of Wire to raise the Dress.
- Mouchoir.
- It were Rude, Vulgar, and Uncourtly, to call it Handkerchief.
- Mouches.
- Flies, or, Black Patches, by the Vulgar.
- Meurtrieres.
- Murderers; a certain Knot in the Hair, which ties and unites the Curls.
- Palatine.
- Formerly call'd Sables, or Tippet, because made of the Tails of that Animal.
- Palisade.
- A Wire sustaining the Hair next to the Dutchess, or first Knot.
- Passagere.
- A Curl'd Lock next the Temples.
- Pastillo di Bocca.
- Perfum'd Lozenges to improve the Breath.
- Pennache.
- Any Bunch or Tassel of small Ribbon.
- Plumpers.
- Certain very thin, round, and light Balls, to plump out, and fill up the Cavities of the Cheeks, much us'd by old Court-Countises.
- [Page 20] Polvil.
- The Portugal term for the most exquisite Powders and Perfumes.
- Raggs.
- A Compendious Name generally us'd for all sorts of Point, Lace, &c. whence the Women who bring them to Ladies Chambers are call'd Ragg-Women; but whilst in their Shops, Exchange-Women.
- Rare, le meilleures.
- Best, and most Excellent; but in Language de beau, rare & le meilleure, happily rhyming with Mont pellier.
- Rayonné.
- Upper Hood, pinn'd in Circle, like the Sun-Beams.
- Rouleau.
- Is Forty Nine Guineas, made up in a Paper Roll, which Monsieur F—Sir I—and Father B—lend to losing Gamesters, that are good Men, and have Fifty in Return.
- Ruffles.
- By our Fore-fathers call'd Cuffs.
- Settée.
- The double Pinner.
- Sorti.
- A little Knot of small Ribbon, peeping out between the Pinner and Bonnet.
- Septizonium.
- A very high Tower in
Rome, built by the Emperour
Severus, of Seven Ranks of Pillars, set one upon the other, and diminishing to the
[Page 21] Top, like the Ladies new Dress for their Heads, which was the Mode among the
Roman Dames, and is exactly describ'd by
Iuvenal in his 6
th Satyr.
Tot premit ordinibus, tot adhuc Compagibus altumAedificat caput; Andromachen a fronte videbisPost minor est—Such Rows of Curles press'd on each other lye,She builds her Head so many Stories high,That look on her before, and you would swearHector's tall Wife Andromache she were,Behind a Pigmy—
- Spanish Paper.
- A beautiful red Colour, which the Ladies, &c. in Spain paint their Faces withal.
- Spagnolet.
- A kind of narrow-sleev'd Gown, a la Spagnole.
- Sprunking.
- A Dutch term for Pruning, Tiffing, Trimming, and setting out, by the Glass or Pocket Miroir.
- Sultane.
- A Gown trimm'd with Buttons and Loops.
- Surtout.
- A Night Hood covering the entire Dress.
- Toilet.
- Corruptly call'd the Twilight, but originally signifying a little Cloth.
- Tour.
- An artificial Dress of Hair on the Forehead, &c.
- [Page 22] Tré fine.
- Langage de Beau. Extreamly fine, and delicate, cum multis aliis.
For besides these, there are a world more, as Assasin, or Venez à moy, A certain Breast-knot, as much as to say, Come to me, Sir, &c.
Dutchesse. A Knot next the Hair, immediately above the Tour, &c. with innumerable others now obsolete, and for the present out of use; but we confine our selves to those in Vogue.
To conclude, Those who have the curiosity, by comparing these Terms with the Ancients, thereby to inform themselves, how this Elegant Science is improv'd, especially since we have submitted to, and still continue under the Empire of the French, (for want of some Royal or Illustrious Ladies Invention and Courage, to give the Law of the Mode to her own Country, and to vindicate it from Foreign Tyranny) may for Divine History consult Isaiah 3 d. ch. ver. 16, &c. and for Prophane, read Plautus his Poenulus, Act. 1. Scen. 2. and his Aulularia, Act. 3. Scen. 5.
To Make Pig, or Puppidog, Water for the Face.
TAke a Fat Pig, or a Fat Puppidog, of nine days old, and kill it, order it as to Roast; save the Blood, and fling away nothing but the Guts; then [Page 23] take the Blood, and Pig, or the Puppidog, and break the Legs and Head, with all the Liver and the rest of the Inwards, of either of them, put all into the Still if it will hold it, to that, take two Quarts of old Canary, a pound of unwash'd Butter not salted; a Quart of Snails-Shells, and also two Lemmons, only the outside pared away; Still all these together in a Rose Water Still, either at once or twice; Let it drop slowly into a Glass-Bottle, in which let there be a lump of Loaf-Sugar, and a little Leaf-gold.